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what mods on a trusty 5513 and who?


what2

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I've more or less convinced myself to buy a trusty 5513.. I know it is not perfect but at least it has the basic look I am after until I mod it. I can coffee stain the dial and and hands, and bleach the insert. What needs to be done to the case, and is there anybody I can send it to? I am dangerous with a dremel. I realize a mwb is closer but I am not willing to spend the money. Or I am better off buying a different model and putting in a 5513 dial?

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Guest pyrite

the crystal will bother you and you cant change that out on the trusty. then there's the crown. wrong. if you want to change that you'll have to swap out the tube first where as the MBW is just a crown swap. case lug holes are also drilled too high as is, once you enlarge them they'll look wrong. also the case reahut is incorrect for a 5513 and theres no way to alter that later. in all seriousness just save the extra $150 and invest in the MBW, it already comes with a better dial and out of the box its more beautiful and even wearable as a nice rep. unless youre going with an NDT dial $200+ there isnt really anything good enough to just pass as a gen dial. the MBW one is ok and wonderful things can be done to enhance it. the trusty dial is just completely wrong. knowing all this wouldnt you rather spend the extra $ in the first place?

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Go for the Trusty option and see how you get on. Most people on here probably started off with a 1:1 replica from trusty :rolleyes: You may be happy and not notice the flaws. You probably will though and in this case don't spend money on moding something like that as its money down the drain.

If you want a better rep in the future sell the Trusty sub and get a MBW. If you mod it well you will add value to it and can move it on as your tastes change without loosing a fortune.

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the crystal will bother you and you cant change that out on the trusty. then there's the crown. wrong. if you want to change that you'll have to swap out the tube first where as the MBW is just a crown swap. case lug holes are also drilled too high as is, once you enlarge them they'll look wrong. also the case reahut is incorrect for a 5513 and theres no way to alter that later. in all seriousness just save the extra $150 and invest in the MBW, it already comes with a better dial and out of the box its more beautiful and even wearable as a nice rep. unless youre going with an NDT dial $200+ there isnt really anything good enough to just pass as a gen dial. the MBW one is ok and wonderful things can be done to enhance it. the trusty dial is just completely wrong. knowing all this wouldnt you rather spend the extra $ in the first place?

to save more money and start with a better watch right away is also my opinion.

but here are my 2 cents :

1. The new MBW doesn

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What is the difference between a rep and a gen crown ???? a 1/10mm thick ??? the price ??? more its expensive, more its good,

Yuki dials ? they fit cheap rep cases ? normally they have been developped to rebuild gen watches, no reps.

Gen crowns have slightly different shapes in most cases, in addition to "sharper / crisper" coronet, dots (triplock), underline etc.

As for fitment, sometimes things fit, or you have to modify things.

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If this is the Trusty 5513 you have in mind:

http://www.trustywatchguy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=216

I'd stay away. I agree with pyrite, crystal is wrong, case is wrong, dial is too yellow, can't drill the lugholes- they're poorly placed.

Now, Paul has a 3-6-9 5513 which isn't too bad

http://www.prowatch888.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_56_72&products_id=1199

Better crystal, you can pop out the metal surround pearl and put in a vintage acrylic dot, drilling the lugs is fine, I even put in a "gen" dial and it fit. Trimmed the cg's and made it WR. Nice little beater with a true swiss eta.

Sorry about the pic, but you get the idea

P1000193-1-1.jpg

Of course, an MBW is still the way to go if you're serious although you could swap in a gen type 5513 dial into a PT 1665 and have a nice watch (with an HE valve to boot!) Maybe in the next few months someone will come out with a PT type 5513, like the 1665 and 1680's out now.

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I had a look this morning on Eurotimez MBV-MBK section,

They sell a 5513 case with a fat bezel ring like the Sea Dweller one... :g:

They sell a 1680 case with the correct Sub thin bezel ring design but with 5513 engraved between lug holes and 5512 engraved case back... :g:

This being said, the 1680 red subdial looks excellent (on the picture) stamped Singer... like the Yuki sold for twice the price... :g: who muddles who ? :whistling:

On the Perfect Clones catalog they have Subs with vrong cases but with an interesting eta low beats, and new 316F stainless steel Sea Dweller with good accurate cases but with eta high beats...

I just try to understand what could happen in a Chinese rep maker brain...

:bangin:

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a gen crown is a MUST, the width is better, the back of the crown has a better bevel, and the coronet and thumb ridges are better defined. if you want to go original get the twinlock crown (no dots 702) BUT you ahve to get a twinlock tube and both parts cost more $$

a 703 crown you can get for about $75 shipped, tube you can get a generic one from clarks

forget the 316F, the vintage pieces are 316L anyways

slow beat vs high beat...well that is a matter of accuracy. event the slow beats are too fast.

dont worry about the mbk engravings, never seen, unless you wear it on leather...and if you do that then you have bigger problems then incorrect engravings.

an mbk red dial is pretty inaccurate, id skip

what is your overall budget?

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This being said, the 1680 red subdial looks excellent (on the picture) stamped Singer... like the Yuki sold for twice the price..

I replaced the red MBW 1680 with a Yuki 5513 and I also have a Yuki red 1680 to comper.

It is not the same league, it isn´t even the same game.

You can have my MBW red 1680 dial if you need one...

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I had not looked at Pauls site, I like the 3-6-9 5513. Does the old "close enough for government work" fit in regards to that watch.

I am not worried about somebody asking me if it is a fake 5513, just like the look and trying to get close enough and be able to beat the cr$p out of it without wincing everytime I am mowing the lawn like I did when I had an original.

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So many options, so many ideas, each of us has his own philosophy and conception of tweak a rep.

Personally, headaches and puzzles and pricy parts are not for me,

Look this watch, its a gen :

GenComex.jpg

Look this one, its mine. Cost me 98usd + shipping. I needed one day to re-cut the crown guards, re-drill the lug holes, re-lume the dial and hands, and put some chemical on the insert. O.K may be I could invest 20 bucks in a pearl

Not a pure race horse, but my philosophy is also : even with gen crowns etc. its still a rep. And if I would invest money, I would buy a gen. A gen 5512/13 in France is around 3000 euros

RAComex.jpg

another photo : remember, 98usd from PerfectClone and one day of fun modding it,

Comex10.jpg

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So many options, so many ideas, each of us has his own philosophy and conception of tweak a rep.

Look this one, its mine. Cost me 98usd + shipping. I needed one day to re-cut the crown guards, re-drill the lug holes, re-lume the dial and hands, and put some chemical on the insert. O.K may be I could invest 20 bucks in a pearl

Not a pure race horse, but my philosophy is also : even with gen crowns etc. its still a rep.

Comex10.jpg

Nice job.... and one heck of a $98 piece! May I send you one of mine for a day please? That was one fun packed day that you spent - very productive.

Any chance you please point me at a thread that teaches the 'chemical aging/treatment of the bezel insert'?

....and once again nice job on the Comex, that just goes to show that everyone has their own preferences and interest in this hobby.

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