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My Pre V 5218 - 202a (Marina Militare)


PeteM

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Here is my rep of the 202a... It was one of the first models made for sale to the general public by OP. As I recall and I am sure someone will chime in :) when the 201a was released for sale this model was originally designed with the Italian Military in mind. Hence the Marina Militare. However due to the popular demand for the 201a, OP decided to release this model for general release.

As with the 201a the dial comes in several versions, The Matching, Non-Matching, Thick (Fatty) Indices, Thin Indices, however there are variations on depth. Also the Non Matching dial only comes in the Fatty indices.

The non matching refers to the colouration of the lume, with the first batch of 202a's made the varnish reacted with the Tritium lume this caused a rapid change in colour... as soon as this was spotted OP changed the varnish... so only the first batch in serial numbers has this quirk.

As the hands were never varnished the colour remains constant allowing for aging of course.

This is the same for the 201a, in terms of Non-Matching as above.

By definition there are only 2 models that can be Non Matching, The 201a and the 202a.

I decided to go with Non Matching and thats also why I am selling the matching dial :)

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Here is my rep of the 202a... It was one of the first models made for sale to the general public by OP. As I recall and I am sure someone will chime in :) when the 201a was released for sale this model was only available to the Italian Military... Hence the Marina Militare. However due to the popular demand for the 201a, OP decided to release this model for general release.

As with the 201a the dial comes in several versions, The Matching, Non-Matching, Thick (Fatty) Indices, Thin Indices, however there are variations on depth. Also the Non Matching dial only comes in the Fatty indices.

The non matching refers to the colouration of the lume, with the first batch of 202a's made the varnish reacted with the Tritium lume this caused a rapid change in colour... as soon as this was spotted OP changed the varnish... so only the first batch in serial numbers has this quirk.

As the hands were never varnished the colour remains constant allowing for aging of course.

This is the same for the 201a, in terms of Non-Matching as above.

By definition there are only 2 models that can be Non Matching, The 201a and the 202a.

I decided to go with Non Matching hence the serial number and thats also why I am selling the matching dial :)

HI PeterM,

Great looking piece...I love non matching sooo much!

I do have a question regarding the proper case back serial # for Non matching 202A. Is there a certain range of serial # that are applicable only to 202A Non matching? You mention that the discolouration happened on the first few watches. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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pre vendome dial indexe are filled with tritium.

tritium is a colorless fine grit and would be mixed with C3 color pigment powder.

manufacturer was rc-tritec switzerland till 2007.

this mixed tritium power was mixed with UV820 a non light-resistant varnish.

and filled in the deep recessed dial indices by the dial-maker and with the rc-tritec handmachine.

over time the varnish UV820 got the yellowing effect.

the hands produced by a swiss hand-maker got the same tritium powder but probably mixed with a light resistant varnish.

and that's why the hands have no yellowing effect over time and show still the C3 color

rolli

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Thanks guys :)

Nice information Rolli... :)

As well as the indices being filled with varnish the dials themselves were overlayed with varnish.

Though none of that are the reason for the non matching dials...

The first batches of 201a's and 202a's had an inferior varnish applied to the T lume that did one of two things, either didnt seal the T lume properly or reacted with the T lume. The latter is considered the correct reason by all those on Risti that might know including Mr Zei. That is why OP changed the varnish after this production batches.

The reaction caused rapid aging of the T lume ie within 1 or 2 weeks and created an orangey yellow lume those that followed were only subject to natural aging of the T lume in a different colouration and therefore are not considered the non matching indeed none I have seen look like non matching.

Mr Zei actual bought a non matching for his own collection though sold it years later.

The hands are interesting in regards to your comments, I have not come across anyone on Risti who considers the hands as varnished clearly if they were it wasnt overlayed on the hands (from unmounted pics I have seen) and may of been mixed in to the compound? But certainly from everything I have read from many sources (not just Risti) the hands were not considered varnished.

Although the indices were deep pressed into the brass base.. the level/depth of lume did vary as did the thickness of the indices, this was because of the particular individuals finishing the dials... indeed you can argue no PreV dial is the same.... indeed no PreV is the same as another as they were all built with hand finished parts.

As for batch numbers, OP have declared around 100 of the 202a's were finished with the poor quality varnish though DG states it as 90.... however these were not all released within the first 90 releases... for example DZs was around 130 and contention is the cut off at 160..

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i think this wasn't so complicated.

dial lume material filling mixed with UV820 varnish by the dial maker.

a technical employee ( rc tritec ) told me, in this time the dial maker used this uv820 varnish.

because all dials got a thin layer on top and then came the lettering print. because the brass dials are black coated by a galvanic bath,

and with a galvanic coating you cannot make the print on top.

all swiss hands maker get their lume powder material from rc-tritec.

and they mixed them with another varnish, not uv820.

that's the only explanation why the hands have still the tritium C3 color.

no other explanation is possible in technically view.

rolli

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All I can say, is that, that opinion is in the minority mate...and even if correct goes against the weight of other evidence... even DZ stated the issue relating to the non matching effect... and the instructions given by himself to others in OP to change the varnish after the problem was identified..

:)

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Specs are

111J case reshaped by Zig

Crystal is Matts 1:1

Caseback is Jakob's

FGD dial and hands

Gen A series Ti crown

LH CG reshaped by Zig

Wholesale Outlet Screw Lug bars

Dirk Vero Squalo (Shark) with PreV PVD buckle

Low H1 CP reshaped and polished by Zig

The dial and hands were lumed by Zig

The PVD was provided by Zig, these pics really dont show how good the pencil grey is :)

Basically its another Zig masterpiece :)

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Specs are

111J case reshaped by Zig

Crystal is Matts 1:1

Caseback is Jakob's

FGD dial and hands

Gen A series Ti crown

LH CG reshaped by Zig

Wholesale Outlet Screw Lug bars

Dirk Vero Squalo (Shark) with PreV PVD buckle

Low H1 CP reshaped and polished by Zig

The dial and hands were lumed by Zig

The PVD was provided by Zig, these pics really dont show how good the pencil grey is :)

Basically its another Zig masterpiece :)

Nothing but the best, well executed by Zig!!!

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As for batch numbers, OP have declared around 100 of the 202a's were finished with the poor quality varnish though DG states it as 90.... however these were not all released within the first 90 releases... for example DZs was around 130 and contention is the cut off at 160..

Thanks PeteM.

For the sake of historical accuracy, what are a few other case back serial numbers (other than the one used on your 202A) would you recommand for my 202A non matching build??

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Personally I like to have something that may or may not be correct.... like a variation on a theme.... thats one of the reasons I love Panerai's

However if I was asked 'what you should have for acceptable accuracy?' then go for anything between 29 and 89 except the ones ending in 0 (ie 20, 30) etc

:)

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Personally I like to have something that may or may not be correct.... like a variation on a theme.... thats one of the reasons I love Panerai's

However if I was asked 'what you should have for acceptable accuracy?' then go for anything between 29 and 89 except the ones ending in 0 (ie 20, 30) etc

:)

Thanks so much!

All I need to do now is get in touch with Jakob!! :-)

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