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Anyone Have A Good Frank DateJust?


StevenDWang

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one of the easiest methods is to drop a used genuine dial from eBay into a replica case. short and sweet.

You can move up the franken ladder from there but it's a cheap and cheerful beginning.

But you have to check your rep case carefully- some take a larger rep dial and therefore a gen dial won't fit. A gen dial is 27.87 or so, so if the rep dial is 28mm or less it should work. I couldn't find a rep case to work early on so I build a couple of frankens. Now days gen cases aren't easy to find and can be more expensive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have put a few Frankenstein DJ together and here is what I know...

1...A 'top of the line' FS DJ would be a genuine case/dial/bracelet + fresh Eta but all the parts + Eta + labor will usually come out to $700 or $800+/- (add $500/$700 +/- for tutone).

2...The next step down is probably a genuine case and dial with aft/mkt bracelet and fresh Eta + labor for about $500 to $700. Still a lot of $$ imho.

3...Drop down to a replica case/bracelet with fresh Eta and genuine dial at about $400 to $500. This barely qualifies as a Frankenstein but cost is held down.

4...Last but not least is the non FS DJ...the best looking dial you can find in a 'swiss Eta' 100% replica.

5...Down from that is the same watch with an Etaclone.

6...Last in line is same as the Etaclone watch but with '21 jewel' motor.

All the above applies to 36mm sapphire DJ.

Q...How would I go?

A...Option 3 or 4. Option 5 if I had a spare swiss Eta.

Tips...

1...Steel FS DJ are a lot cheaper because of gold prices. A high quality die struck 18k bezel that used to be $150 is now $250 to $400 or more. An Italy made high grade SS/14k heavy center link jubilee is now $800 or $900 when they used to be $400 or less. A SS/14k bracelet looks just like a SS/18k bracelet so save the $$ because most of the 14k gold used in aft/mkt rolex parts is mixed to look like 18k. If you buy a genuine rolex bezel, 14k was used into the 1980s and the bezels are not marked for content, only stamped on the underside with a coronet on later models. The bracelet's gold content is marked on the clasp on tutones and the bezel should match. Buying from unknown sellers with bargain prices may result in 10k or 12k gold being sold for 14k or 18k.

2...Stainless steel die struck fluted bezels are available for about $35 to make a SS/white gold DJ look-alike.

3...Be sure to use a snug fitting metal spacer and case clamps/screws to secure the movement tightly so it will not slide around inside the case when you pull the crown out etc because this will scuff the paint off the edge of the dial. Before long it will start peeling, especially if it has clear coat on it.

4...Apply some glue to the back side of replica dial marker feet to make sure the markers do not fall off. Be careful with superglue as it can travel and get on the dial. Clean the 'gummy glue' off around the feet if possible first.

5...Use a good aft/mkt case tube and genuine crown on replica cases if possible. Some replica DJ cases are threaded for 5.3mm case tubes so be sure to get the correct combo (read the crown sticky above).

6...If the aft/mkt case already has a sapphire crystal...let it be if it does not leak water (remove the mvt and leave the case in the deep end of the pool overnight etc to check it).

7...If you have a gen spec case, it is a good idea to install a gen spec aft/mkt gasket and sapphire crystal so you can use a gen spec bezel (30.5mm ID). Some replica DJ will have a goofy bezel/crystal combo but the case neck will be the same as genuine (29.45mm to 29.5mm OD). Solid gold bezels can be stretched out of spec by being installed on out of spec aft/mkt crystals or allowed to get out of level when installing them. Always measure the ID of used gold bezels before buying one if possible. A gold bezel much over 29.55 or 29.6 may not seal the case.

Btw, I stuck a tutone lowball HS (Halfstein) DJ together yesterday morning. I figure a genuine 18k bezel and crown only qualifies it as a Halfstein.

Here is what I used...

1...Aft/mkt case tube and standard 6mm genuine crown ($25).

2...Genuine used 18k fluted acrylic QS DJ bezel ($175).

3...Unmarked aft/mkt DJ case that accepts gen spec crystal.

4...Replica tutone 21 link bracelet (22 on genuine) claimed to have 8k center links (I seriously doubt it but I never had one wear through)...maybe brass base center links?

5...All new steel springbars and clasp hinge rivet ($2).

6...StarTime aft/mkt sapphire crystal and gasket ($30).

7...ST6D movement for now (cheap!).

The 'gen spec' tutone base watch was $150 because of the '8k' center links...like I said, I doubt they are 8k but the case is gen spec as for crystal/bezel and the dial and hands are super nice. The 28mm dial was originally made with dial feet for Eta and ST6, they snip the Eta feet off when an ST6 is used. It has a gold/black date wheel with open 6/9 and correct 9mm offset.

The gold bezel is made for an acrylic crystal model and it is a little bit lower than a sapphire bezel so I sanded the crystal gasket down a little to lower the crystal...it looks fine, no one would know the difference.

If I put an Eta in it later, I will cut slots inside the case for case clamps with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. It has a thick plastic spacer now but it is a tight fit and the movement stays in place.

I checked the time on it late this am and it is running at about 20 seconds slow in 24 hours.

At $400 or so It looks fine except for the 21600 tick. :pimp:

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I upgraded, so I can sell and service. I will be posting some pics of the datejust I build. I will also be including a detail description addressing every aspect of my build, doing a comparison of all the parts I use with the gen. If you like any of my pictures just ciontact me thru pm. Anxious to get feedback on my reps.

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I have several franken datejust sets (GEN: case, bezel, caseback, crown, dial, bracelet), datewheel overlays from cubicworks, aftermarket steinkreutz acrylic crystals . All you need to complete the build is the eta 2836-2 and a set of tudor hands :-) . If any useful let me know.

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