cib0rgman Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I just want to post some pictures of the latest modification done by Zyggy to my beloved 1665. He was kind enough to fabricate a HE valve as the one I got from Phong's did not fit. Here are the pictures. and Specs: MBW Complete case Gen Insert Gen Crown + Tube 1570 Movement with silver date wheel Gen (Bracelet + Endlinks + Spring bars) In gods Rail Dial (need a gen one probably) Clarks Hands Gen Flat tropic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Very nice. A great workhorse watch, love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 There is just something right about MBW-based Subs/SDs . But I think your watch deserves better pics . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Congrats!!! I think my MBW was sitting on his work bench waiting for the same HEV treatment until he had a son-of-a-[censored] time drilling the case on yours (I assume!) ! That's when he sent it back to me. So my 1665 is still in search of a HEV mod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I love the vintage 1665 very much i have always loved it! But in the last soon two years i have been drawn to rolex slim/thin cases more and more. And now when i look at, say this mbw 1665 i think that the midcase is two darn fat, NOT wrong fat it should be like that, but i meen its to thick! I have owned around 3 of this fully modded mbw 1665 in the past and i never thought that the case was too thick, but i dont think that watch now days would sit good on my wrist! And im very glad that rolex hase a very nice line of vintage slim/thin case models [censored], maybe im just getting old?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Great you got it done, I wonder what that means, Phong's hev didn't fit? Jmb installed my Phong hev, they don't "fit" really as the case has to be drilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 There is just something right about MBW-based Subs/SDs . But I think your watch deserves better pics . @freddy333 you are right this was just a quick and dirty picture take. could not wait to share the result Great you got it done, I wonder what that means, Phong's hev didn't fit? Jmb installed my Phong hev, they don't "fit" really as the case has to be drilled. Here is the detail, my MBW case is at least 5 years old, maybe newer ones are different. Anyway I am very pleased with the result and the whole job cost less that the Valve from Phong's, I still have the He valve from phong's is someone is interested. - supplied HE valve defective - o'ring too big- valve head unfinished with nipple sticking out - valve too long - made from plain steel - Rob machined correct size and shape valve from stainless - also supplied correct size o'ring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Congrats!!! I think my MBW was sitting on his work bench waiting for the same HEV treatment until he had a son-of-a-[censored] time drilling the case on yours (I assume!) ! That's when he sent it back to me. So my 1665 is still in search of a HEV mod... that is odd since he can make you a HE valve it should not be an issue, juts patience I will say. Holidays are close maybe he is taking some time off. Sorry to hear that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 That is really nice. If I ever get a vintage rep, this is the one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 that is odd since he can make you a HE valve it should not be an issue, juts patience I will say. Holidays are close maybe he is taking some time off. Sorry to hear that That was the plan. A The Zigmeister built HEV with the case drilled. I know he struggled with the thickness of the steel and went through several bits (not on mine) but the experience was enough to resend mine. I actually had 2 1665's with him for the same mods so I was disappointed. I will hit up JMB again soon. I know he's been busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 "Gen (Bracelet + Endlinks + Spring bars)" One springbar in the clasp appears to be brass or gold plated with no indention in the center like oem. It's a small detail but it shows up on this super nice watch. HEV valves... I made some and here is what it took to make them: one foot by .125" section of 316L...38 cents from online metals dotcom (I figure abour 3 dollars shipping each by dividing total shp cost into the whole order) various cutter bits for Sherline lathe...$5 O ring...20 cents spring made from ss feeler gauge...50 cents (a real pain in the azz to make with what I had) About two hours cutting/cussing time on the first valve. $0 labor cost (can not charge myself). The more valves you make, the faster you get...up to a point. I cut the 316L to size using the Sherline XY tool mount and cut the O ring and spring grooves using a 'WR Smith' tool rest adapter with hand held graver. This can all be done on a 'WW' lathe by hand since the valve is so short it is not hard to cut the entire valve shaft to 1.1mm by hand. 'WW' lathe = watchmaker's lathe that usually takes common 8mm collets. Mine is an old nickel plated C&E Marshall that I paid $100 for including a bunch of collets. It uses a leather boot string for a drive belt but some WW guys use a rubber O ring. It is so old it has twisted cloth covered electrical wires with a big Bakelite plug. Zap!! Stick a piece of the 316 rod in the lathe and cut the shaft to 1.1mm, cut the gasket and keeper spring grooves, cut the valve head to size (1.9/1.95mm on this one) and cut it off. Polish the valve head. Do not know if all valves are the same or not but this is a duplicate of what was in this particular case...a gift from a TRC guy in the UK (Sept 2006)...no serial number. Easiest way to go on low buck projects (Asian or eta mvt, regular cartel dial etc) is to bore the case and make the HEV valve so it can be pressed into the case and sealed with gasket sealer of some sort (I use ThreeBond), and skip the case grinding, O ring, and spring. Drilling the case can be a big problem...cut the hole off-center, break the bit in the case, polish the O ring seat (or figure out how to cut it to a smooth finish) etc. I polish the seats using a pointed wood dowel mounted in a battery Dremel tool with Simichrome polish. Practice on a dud case first so you won't make a dud out of your good case. The case in this example already had hole a bored in it but if you start from scratch with a no HEV case, you might be in for a real treat. Besides boring the hole in the case you have to grind a relief inside the case to accomodate the valve spring. It has to be cut to the correct depth so the valve will work with the spring. In other words...it has to be real close. Best way to do this is to cut the relief in the case, then cut the HEV valve to work with the case thickness. Get all that done and the only thing left is to grind a flat spot in the movement spacer (Eta etc mvt). Nothin' to it. I am not looking for any orders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 You can save yourself alot of work by buying 1 of the cheap-o Comex Sub reps with working He valves in them already that many dealers still sell. Then, follow the instructions here to drill the requisite hole in your case to fit the valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 You can save yourself alot of work by buying 1 of the cheap-o Comex Sub reps with working He valves in them already that many dealers still sell. Then, follow the instructions here to drill the requisite hole in your case to fit the valve. That would mean sacrificing the many advantages of a MBW watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 That would mean sacrificing the many advantages of a MBW watch. I think he's saying you just steal the hev out of the cheap case to install in your MBW, instead of from scratch like auto explained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 Very nice. And I don't find the dial offensive at all . . . at least not in the pics provided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 I think he's saying you just steal the hev out of the cheap case to install in your MBW, instead of from scratch like auto explained. Yes, I just re read that! Must have missed my coffee yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 The Springbar on the bracelet clasp is not Gen, but the ones on the endlinks are, I find it nreealyt impossible to gen a gen springbar for the clasp, does anybody has one for sell and a set of 585 endlinks "Gen (Bracelet + Endlinks + Spring bars)" One springbar in the clasp appears to be brass or gold plated with no indention in the center like oem. It's a small detail but it shows up on this super nice watch. HEV valves... I made some and here is what it took to make them: one foot by .125" section of 316L...38 cents from online metals dotcom (I figure abour 3 dollars shipping each by dividing total shp cost into the whole order) various cutter bits for Sherline lathe...$5 O ring...20 cents spring made from ss feeler gauge...50 cents (a real pain in the azz to make with what I had) About two hours cutting/cussing time on the first valve. $0 labor cost (can not charge myself). The more valves you make, the faster you get...up to a point. I cut the 316L to size using the Sherline XY tool mount and cut the O ring and spring grooves using a 'WR Smith' tool rest adapter with hand held graver. This can all be done on a 'WW' lathe by hand since the valve is so short it is not hard to cut the entire valve shaft to 1.1mm by hand. 'WW' lathe = watchmaker's lathe that usually takes common 8mm collets. Mine is an old nickel plated C&E Marshall that I paid $100 for including a bunch of collets. It uses a leather boot string for a drive belt but some WW guys use a rubber O ring. It is so old it has twisted cloth covered electrical wires with a big Bakelite plug. Zap!! Stick a piece of the 316 rod in the lathe and cut the shaft to 1.1mm, cut the gasket and keeper spring grooves, cut the valve head to size (1.9/1.95mm on this one) and cut it off. Polish the valve head. Do not know if all valves are the same or not but this is a duplicate of what was in this particular case...a gift from a TRC guy in the UK (Sept 2006)...no serial number. Easiest way to go on low buck projects (Asian or eta mvt, regular cartel dial etc) is to bore the case and make the HEV valve so it can be pressed into the case and sealed with gasket sealer of some sort (I use ThreeBond), and skip the case grinding, O ring, and spring. Drilling the case can be a big problem...cut the hole off-center, break the bit in the case, polish the O ring seat (or figure out how to cut it to a smooth finish) etc. I polish the seats using a pointed wood dowel mounted in a battery Dremel tool with Simichrome polish. Practice on a dud case first so you won't make a dud out of your good case. The case in this example already had hole a bored in it but if you start from scratch with a no HEV case, you might be in for a real treat. Besides boring the hole in the case you have to grind a relief inside the case to accomodate the valve spring. It has to be cut to the correct depth so the valve will work with the spring. In other words...it has to be real close. Best way to do this is to cut the relief in the case, then cut the HEV valve to work with the case thickness. Get all that done and the only thing left is to grind a flat spot in the movement spacer (Eta etc mvt). Nothin' to it. I am not looking for any orders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Lookin good brotha!!! Very nice watch! One day I plan to get a better dial for mine. I have the OLD double red MBW dial, but I want to switch to a great white patina dial. Zig sure does some nice custom work! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 This picture is nicer and does better justice to the watch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.