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The Daytona 6263 Hunt (DW/SPinmaster/Kenny/Watchguyusa1) Anyone else?


TheSociety

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Hey guys, such an enjoyable thread to read. I've been drooling all the way through! I love this dial version: 50d868e9fbfc55e224d84914bc638091.jpg

Also, I'd be really keen to hear if these 'shortcut' versions of the PN Daytona are a worthwhile base model from which to make mods to...

http://www.pf-818.com/watches/rolex/daytona/vintages.html


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Wrap some extremely thin brass sheet around it where it broke, heat it, add a tiny drop of solder and let capillary attraction draw the solder into the joint.

Then send it to me. :wub:

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Gents, I did a quick scout online to find the gen 6263 case dimensions; my results turned up:

Case diameter: 37mm
Case thickness: 13.4mm

Can anyone validate these dimensions? Additionally, does the 37mm diameter include the crown and/or pushers. It'd be good to know the case diameter without crown and pushers, since most builds start with a case shell that may need refinishing to size.

Input appreciated from those with the knowledge


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  • 2 weeks later...
07c6f374708cfa129bb9efbe9e046da5.jpg

The crown stem broke on my DW Mystery Mov't Daytona approx. 10 years ago. I never found a suitable replacement stem. Does anybody know what stem fits?


Did you try a valjoux 23 stem?

Alternatively you can just swap the mystery
Movement for a genuine valjoux 23 movement.
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Did you try a valjoux 23 stem?

 

Alternatively you can just swap the mystery

Movement for a genuine valjoux 23 movement.

 

I've built a few v23 and v72 DWs a decade ago... And if memory serves me right, the stem is not the same size at all.

 

I have a valjoux 230 flyback, which is a modified valjoux 23, but the stem is a split stem and it appears to be of a different size than the MM stem. The mystery continues... I think there are a few folks seeking this same info...

 

btw Slay, nice gilt sub you have up for grabs-------> very tempting!

 

Here's the modified Valjoux 23 aka caliber 230 flyback. I tried to install this stem but it appears to be of a different size

 

a01e866686d0d7d1df11839a2feef694.jpg

 

One thought I have is that this MM might be a weird and unique one. I got this particular movement from DW's very very first batch. His parts were all different at the time. Trial & error or rather, research and testing phase...

 

I never sold this particular watch because I wanted to figure out what the hell the issue is with this stem!!!

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  • 1 year later...
[mention=3605]tony[/mention] those are spectacular early examples of DWs.  Verrrrrrrrrrrrrrry tasty!  default_thumbsup.gif

 

 

 

Lol let me say that I had tremendous luck with DW at first. I think he liked me because I ordered watches from him from very early on.

 

I last tried to order I believe a 6238.

 

The watch I received had a broken dial and a case back so misaligned it would only go on half way..

 

Needless to say I walked away from reps at that point but kept these..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

"The crown stem broke on my DW Mystery Mov't Daytona approx. 10 years ago. I never found a suitable replacement stem. Does anybody know what stem fits?"

 

I bought a few stem assortments over the years and can usually match one up with a movement where the stem is hard to find.  Tap (thread) size can be a problem because many old watches have T8 (1.1mm) or T9 (1.0mm) stems.  Most mechanical watches today are T10 (.9mm) and most quartz watches are T10 or T11.

.70mm = tap 12
.80mm = tap 11
.90mm = tap10  most common
1.0mm =-tap 9
1.1mm-= tap 8

1.2mm = tap 7

 

The threads on a stem are the same as the threads on any type of screw.

Sometimes you have to use an adapter to go from one thread size to another if you can not find a stem the right size but you have to have room for the adapter between the crown and movement and it has to fit through the case tube. 

 

Here is one stem assortment on eBay for example:   Item number   382773712115

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  • 3 years later...

I find this thread truly fascinating. Thank you for sharing! 
I am pondering the purchase of a 18kt gold 6263 case from Phong. Dial would come from MQ. Have to see about the rest. Any input on this?


here’s mine recently purchased.

6263: Yuki full case, MQ dial, VJ72

 

 

6C4E6506-557C-41C3-88E1-5CDC1D724819.jpeg

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"I am pondering the purchase of a 18kt gold 6263 case from Phong. Dial would come from MQ. Have to see about the rest. Any input on this?"

 

Not being a 'Daddy Downer' here...this is a bit of friendly advice from someone who has traded and worked on watches for close to 50 years:

Forget about it unless you can find one already finished at a fire sale price so the other guy takes the lo$$.

 

Why?

All you will really have is an overpriced $$ fake gold case, a $$ V72 movement, and an aftmkt dial no matter how much it cost you to put it together.  Gold at today's prices is not a good buy imho.   

Example...I have an 18K (29 grams) replica rolex Prez/DJ case and it is worth about as much as an empty case as it would be with a running swiss ETA movement and aftmkt dial.  With a genuine 3135 and dial it would be worth the gold price of the case and the going price of a genuine 3135 and dial, not what a genuine example would be worth.

Besides that, I got the case when gold was between $300 and $400 per troy oz, can not remember the exact price.

 

Otoh you will not get hurt on your steel Daytona  because:

Steel is IN.

Steel is a LOT cheaper.

The rest of the components are probably worth close to what you paid for them.

 

The Bottom Line is...replicas are not worth very much in the real world, usually just the value of the components added together.  For RWG members, replica and Frankenstein projects are almost always a $$ losing endeavor...but we are  :crazy:

 

Maybe buy a genuine vintage 18K Omega Constellation, Longines Admiral or something at a fair price and put it on a high quality crocodile strap with a gold buckle.

For example...

1672417162_IMG_0742(2).thumb.JPG.8a3ed2c87371e8a3cee914c17cdd3f47.JPG

Like new Gubelin automatic from the early 1970s, all original, all genuine, all 18K gold.

Or go cheap...

1944655065_IMG_0743(2).thumb.JPG.2b627f919361097f0c7c5abe803ff619.JPG

Not like new, not original, not genuine, but all 14K gold including the buckle.

It gets more complements (plus a few laughs) than any gold rolex I have ever owned.

How much did it cost?

Less than $200USD.

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13 hours ago, automatico said:

"I am pondering the purchase of a 18kt gold 6263 case from Phong. Dial would come from MQ. Have to see about the rest. Any input on this?"

 

Not being a 'Daddy Downer' here...this is a bit of friendly advice from someone who has traded and worked on watches for close to 50 years:

Forget about it unless you can find one already finished at a fire sale price so the other guy takes the lo$$.

 

Why?

All you will really have is an overpriced $$ fake gold case, a $$ V72 movement, and an aftmkt dial no matter how much it cost you to put it together.  Gold at today's prices is not a good buy imho.   

Example...I have an 18K (29 grams) replica rolex Prez/DJ case and it is worth about as much as an empty case as it would be with a running swiss ETA movement and aftmkt dial.  With a genuine 3135 and dial it would be worth the gold price of the case and the going price of a genuine 3135 and dial, not what a genuine example would be worth.

Besides that, I got the case when gold was between $300 and $400 per troy oz, can not remember the exact price.

 

Otoh you will not get hurt on your steel Daytona  because:

Steel is IN.

Steel is a LOT cheaper.

The rest of the components are probably worth close to what you paid for them.

 

The Bottom Line is...replicas are not worth very much in the real world, usually just the value of the components added together.  For RWG members, replica and Frankenstein projects are almost always a $$ losing endeavor...but we are  :crazy:


thank you for the reasonable answer. I’ve always only ever had gen watches, including gold Calatrava so not looking for any kind of gold watches.

PN and simple Daytonas are and will remain unaffordable so that’s why I ventured into this 6263. I really like it and was thinking of going next for a PN. I agree that most of these aren’t worth that much especially if one tries to build one by himself. Phong asks 15k$ for a complete watch without bracelet. For gold it would be 10000 more. That starts to be a sum indeed.

i might wait for someone selling his as you rightly advised.

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"I’ve always only ever had gen watches, including gold Calatrava..."

 

My life story Ha!...

Have owned only one nice Patek, a mint condition manual wind cal 23-300 'Golden Ellipse' on the original integrated bracelet.  I never wore it but my impression of the watch was it was a quality case/bracelet with a fragile, fancy movement (case work no better than the Gubelin above imho).  I paid gold scrap price for it from a gold and diamond dealer in April 1998 and traded it even for a nib rolex 16233 with factory diamond dial in November 1998. 

Never owned a manual wind Daytona but owned a few chronographs with the V72.  Sold them all in 1996/97, too cheap, too soon.

 

Q...How did I get tangled up with replicas/Frankensteins?

A...When RWC went full tilt 'No Parts For You!' I sold most of my modern 'trade and sell' rolex watches (quick set and/or sapphire) and kept a few vintage models, then went with replicas/steins to scratch the itch.  Before that, I traded into and out of quite a few replicas at flea markets etc, mostly low grade examples.  Still buy a genuine vintage rolex now and then if the price is right aka cheap. 

Last time I wore a genuine rolex for more than a day or two to check it out was probably 25 years ago.  Now use a Bergeon 'Final Test' so I do not have to wear one.

Last watch purchase from a rolex AD was May 1998.  Next time is Never.

 

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