A guide to 16800 builds..

[QueTip]

The 16800


I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. 
Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. 


So first things first.. The 16800

Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) 


It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. 

 

Improvements compared to the 1680:

- Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic
- Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat)
- Unidirectional rotating bezel
- Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680
- New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680
- 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links

Now let's get to the building. 

Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. 
Find a correct case...

There are not many to choose... 

Only ones I know about that are usable are: 

- 3035 ST case (old and super rare) 
- Phong 16800 case ($$$) 


Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case.

Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. 
I personally would go gen on all of those. 

- nonAR 295c sapphire crystal
- 703 crown and tube





After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. 

Your choices are: 

- Genuine
- Phong
- ST
- TC (if you go TC case)


Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. 

 

Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. 

Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds)

Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one)

Spider dial: 




 

The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. 

The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them

 

To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. 


Matte dials: 


Mk1: 



Mk2:


Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85)
The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. 
Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'.

Mk3:

Even rarer dial than mk2
The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other


Mk4: 

Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. 
It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. 


Gloss dials: 


Mk1: 


Mk2: 



I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. 


 Bicchierini Dial


the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85.

(taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) 


If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use:

- genuine
- TC LN v2

and age them to match the Patina of your dial. 


When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet.


You can go: 

- genuine cal. 3035
- ETA


Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. 

For that you can choose between those:

- genuine 93150
- PT 93150
- anything else aftermarket 

However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. 
Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. 


After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. 

 

Happy building! :sparta::hi:


 

 

@Sogeha

Edited May 12, 2017 by QueTip

[eswilly]

Jiminy crickets man. That's ka-powable


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[Nanuq]

Dang, QueTip ... that ROCKS.  That's exactly why RWG is here, for detailed information like that. 

 

Wow, nicely done. 

 

[Nivka]

Awesome write up, thanks. So far beyond my budget, but an excellent reference

[Sogeha]

@QueTip

Thanks for sharing that here, it's a fantastic post well worth adding to our information library.

[highoeyazmuhudee]

absolutely beautiful

[Ephry73]

Nice. I miss my old 16800 franken. Good post. Just make sure to add that it is possible to have a 16800 with the SEL bracelet as well. Makes it a lot easier to source a decent bracelet for this build.




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[blackboxes]

Very nice brother, real detailed too - me likey! :-)

[QueTip]

Nice. I miss my old 16800 franken. Good post. Just make sure to add that it is possible to have a 16800 with the SEL bracelet as well. Makes it a lot easier to source a decent bracelet for this build

But it's not. Only chance a 16800 could sport a 93250 is a change of the stock bracelet.

It never came off factory with a 93250.

[Ephry73]

But it's not. Only chance a 16800 could sport a 93250 is a change of the stock bracelet.

It never came off factory with a 93250.

That's correct.


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[Ezio]

17 hours ago, QueTip said:

 

But it's not. Only chance a 16800 could sport a 93250 is a change of the stock bracelet.

It never came off factory with a 93250.

 

Have you built a 16800 Q just wondering  

[QueTip]

6 hours ago, Ezio said:

Have you built a 16800 Q just wondering  

Of course, I have. ?

[username here]

Mine says hello!

ST 3035 case, gen dial/crystal/dw/hands/insert/crown/tube. Have a nice 93150 but currently on a cool green leather strap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. I miss my old 16800 franken. Good post. Just make sure to add that it is possible to have a 16800 with the SEL bracelet as well. Makes it a lot easier to source a decent bracelet for this build.




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You don't have one anymore? Seriously you were my inspiration and a huge help with mine.


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[Ephry73]

Mine says hello!

ST 3035 case, gen dial/crystal/dw/hands/insert/crown/tube. Have a nice 93150 but currently on a cool green leather strap.


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You don't have one anymore? Seriously you were my inspiration and a huge help with mine.


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I know brother. Lot of research done online for almost four years before I got a few done. I have my keeper case and dial. Just waiting for the right movement to come along.


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[Ezio]

On 14/5/2017 at 0:20 PM, QueTip said:

Of course, I have. ?

Show some pics dont Think i ever seen yours  

[QueTip]

11 minutes ago, Ezio said:

Show some pics dont Think i ever seen yours  

 

Edited May 15, 2017 by QueTip