namor Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 Do we have a DIY-Guide for this Topic in our fora ? My search was not successful... I have a cheap asian case to try, but with a standard HSS-Drill it's impossible to come through - the steel is too hard. I tried different speeds and pressures (never mind if I screw up this one) but I just couldn't get deeper than a few nanometers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 You need a cobalt bit... HSS just won't cut it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 (edited) I have not found drilling the 316L case (TW Sub) as easy as it might sound. I am using SnapOn Cobalt bits (#55) and I have gone through a pair and did not completely finished the project. I ordered and additional four so it should be completed by the weekend. The bracelet is complete and just waiting for the case. One thing to keep in mind is that quite a bit of heat is generated around the lugs when drilling. I wraped the case in cold damp cloths and held it freehand. The cloths will keep the temps down. I stopped drilling and allowed everything to cool off very frequently so it does take time, at least for me. If someone has additional tips such as the best rotary tool speed to use (I have tried several) or anything else they would like to share, it would be greatly appreciated. Jet Edited April 27, 2006 by Jetsons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakan Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 use plenty of cutting fluid, that will help to keep the bits sharp and cool the area somewhat. It's still 1 bit for 2-3 holes for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 I don't get it. I used a SnapOn bit to work on an MBW DRSD. I used a handheld drill at low speed, set the case in a vise and used 1 drop of 3-in-1 oil per lug. It cut through like butter. Could probably do another 3 or 4 cases with the same bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gattenda Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I don't get it. I used a SnapOn bit to work on an MBW DRSD. I used a handheld drill at low speed, set the case in a vise and used 1 drop of 3-in-1 oil per lug. It cut through like butter. Could probably do another 3 or 4 cases with the same bit. may be MBW's SS is softer grade than other reps... all these alloys change their chracteristics quite a bit when a composition changes (for steel, it's carbon content). Same with the drill bits. same "cobalt carbide" bits can have different hardness depending on composition. just a thought.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linder Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 My steel used in my MBW 16610LV is attracted to a magnet which makes me believe it is 440 stainless as luckyyy advertised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stac Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Cobalt bit is the way to go. Drill speed is forgiving with these bits. Drill speed and cooling lubricant is very important Believe it or not...if your drill speed speed is correct for the size bit/material you are using, you could actually use HSS bits all day long without problems. Drilling/boring in steel is and art in itself in terms of machining. If you are drilling s/s without problems you are L U C K Y and keep repeating the same procedure! I'm going to search out some specs for drilling and post. Hope it will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Is it possible to do the job without the use of a vice? ie: free hand? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAHLER Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I have used a point for steel measures 1 of the Tivoly (http://www.tivoly.fr) for this http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...mp;#entry106041 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I need some suggestions for a drill to do this procedure as the dremel is too high speed and just breaks bits like there's no tomorrow. Any suggestions on the best drill for the job? What you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 Gotta go low speed. I seem to remember people noting 600 - 800 rpm as the speed that works best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAHLER Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) I need some suggestions for a drill to do this procedure as the dremel is too high speed and just breaks bits like there's no tomorrow. Any suggestions on the best drill for the job? What you use? I Have Use Dremel to 9.000 turns always cooling the point of Tivoly with ice and grease silicon. For smaller speed you can use a Mini-Mini Drill... I have also this PARKSIDE BJ 24v 2002 from 900 to 20.000 rpm for 20 Euro to Lidl Market : is like this http://www.watchpolishing.com/largeviewgrinder.htm Edited August 22, 2006 by MAHLER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 Much appreciated MAHLER and my main man Ubi. Much love to you both. And no i amn't Heath ledger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribal Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I have good results on my watches with cobaltdrills. I drill the lugholes by hand because my dremel has to much speed.... With a little bit force its an easy job.... RG tribal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heywood Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I just finished doing a used SD I bought from a fellow from the forum. I used 1.25 mm cobalt drill bit and light oil for cutting fluid and my cordless driver drill. I did 4 holes in no time. A 1.3 mm bit might work better as the original holes were not perfectly straight and the 1.25 mm bit didn't leave much room for play. MSC supply has the bits for a couple of bucks a piece if you can't find them locally and shipped UPS ground I had them in 2 days. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I've only got the one bit, but I've used it for many hundreds of holes, definitely need some sort of lubrication or you get a smell of burning, only 2 speeds tho'......fast and slow.....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherrington Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 My steel used in my MBW 16610LV is attracted to a magnet which makes me believe it is 440 stainless as luckyyy advertised. Well that's really smart way to F*ck up your watch. Put it up close to a magnet? I would take the back off as well, if I was you, and see if it's still waterproof by throwing it in the nearest pond !!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miquel Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I just wanted to add my 2 cents. I had a cheap Silix no cg sub. I bought 4 1.3mm gold drill bits (don't know what material they were). I used one to do one hole using a 16v cordless drill at low speed and no lubrication. Went though slowly. Used the same bit for the second hole. Again, no problem. The third hole was problematic. I went through the remaining drill bits, with the last one breaking off at the tip, just before penetration. My supplier had no 1.3mm bits left, so I bought 2 1.6mm cobalt bits from local hardware store. I burned through them faster than the last three. Didn't even make the third hole. Being thoroughly frustrated, I went back to the store and bought 4 1.6mm HSS bits and a bottle of 3in1 oil. I took the bits to work and put one in the drill press. I lubed the bit with 3in1 and presto, 10 min. later 2 holes drilled. I am happy with the results,have 3 bits left, and will be using the drill press from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaccum Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I have not found drilling the 316L case (TW Sub) as easy as it might sound. I am using SnapOn Cobalt bits (#55) and I have gone through a pair and did not completely finished the project. I ordered and additional four so it should be completed by the weekend. The bracelet is complete and just waiting for the case. One thing to keep in mind is that quite a bit of heat is generated around the lugs when drilling. I wraped the case in cold damp cloths and held it freehand. The cloths will keep the temps down. I stopped drilling and allowed everything to cool off very frequently so it does take time, at least for me. If someone has additional tips such as the best rotary tool speed to use (I have tried several) or anything else they would like to share, it would be greatly appreciated. Jet You need cobalt bits, low RPM and cutting oil. If you heat and cool then re-heat and cool down again you are "tempering" the steel. Every time you do the heat and cool cycle the steel will become more harder and harder. The best practice is to keep a constant low drill RPM, constant moderate pressure and the material you are drilling at the lowest temp possible without sudden changes in temp. This will save you lots of drill bits and frustration. Just my .02 cents. vaccum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 Is it necessary to remove the movement before drilling or can I just drill the watch as is? What should be removed before drilling? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAHLER Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 Is it necessary to remove the movement before drilling or can I just drill the watch as is? What should be removed before drilling? Thanks Yes is necessary remove the movement because the vibrations damage it. Remove first the caseback, then crown and stem, the screw with locks that stop the movement on the case, finally the movement with dial and hands. Put all in a confortable box closed and without dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWATCHman Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 I tried standard HSS at first. A nightmare. I went through package after package. Don't even try it. I ruined a bracelet, when the drill snapped an got stuck in the endlink. Then I switched to cobalt drills plus cutting liquid. Works nicely. I'm using a power screwdriver for drilling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 Yes is necessary remove the movement because the vibrations damage it. Remove first the caseback, then crown and stem, the screw with locks that stop the movement on the case, finally the movement with dial and hands. Put all in a confortable box closed and without dust. Ok, I think I can handle removing the movement but don't have a crystal press so I hope I don't have to remove the crystal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermanx Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 Anyone have any hints on drilling when no lug holes are present, got a tudor that is supposed to have lugs but doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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