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A B C Tutorial "how To Make A Strap"


pubus

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In the disclaimer to this topic, I will say that it is not so hard to make a strap on your own. But as You will see further in this post, this takes time, requires patience, patience and once again patience. I advice You to take your time, never rush with any parts of the process because it will only cause inaccuracy in Your project.

My english may not be accurate but I hope that everything will be clear for You all :rolleyes:

Also remember that this is a complete amateur tutorial as I am no proffesional strap maker.

I advice You to get straps from dealers, those straps are better quality and for sure will last longer.

You can either use the tools simillar to mine, or buy proffesional tools for example HERE. If I had the money I would buy those for sure :p

I would also like to thank to Aaron HKTan who gave me some advices and pointed some things I was so curious about.

Anyway, lets begin :p

A - Tools

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Here is the picture of the tools I use to make straps. I think I dont have to tell you what a particular tool is, as You can clearly see it above :) But specific, the bottles You see one the left top corner are special leather

paints (aprox 2euro cost each), they are used to paint the edges of the straps, so the leather would look better, when dry, they are flexible and hard to go off. The big glue is a transparent poliuteranic glue used to shoes, leathers etc. This is the main one, the smaller, Super Glue helps in the stitching part :)

B - Leather

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I dont think that there is any rule in leather choosing. So we pick one :p

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A leather belt I bought for small money and tools needed to this B part.

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We slice the leather to the size we like. I sliced a bigger piece. When it comes to the dimensions, please reffer to any strap You own. For my 7.1 inch wrist I make straps 110/70 in lenght, So as You see, I need to slice two pieces of 230mm and 150mm. I add 10mm for the loss due to the bend process. We can always cut the leather after glueing.

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Now, using the ruller and a spike I try to mark the leather with two straight line in distance of 24mm or a little more, as the leather can shrink a bit after cutting it.

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This is the way I slice the leather. I use heavy steel blocks with straight edges, so theres no way Im gonna slice a no straight piece :)

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This is the part where You cut the leather if its too long for your size. You simply bend over the leather aprox 15mm from the middle and try to fit as it is showed on the picture. If you cut the right size, You would not have to cut the spare part of the leather. If You are completly sure that the dimensions are proper, but really really sure, as there is no way turning back from this moment :) we can proceed further.

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We make markings on the inside part of the strap so we are able to put the glue well. I used the spike again, but you can use pen or something completly different I have no idea about :) These lines arent nessesary, but they help alot :)

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Then we put the glue. I put the glue in straight line, and then, with a help of a simple match I spread the glue on the whole surfance.

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And this is the part the leather must glue strong. I use two steel blocks squized as You can see on the picture. Theres plenty of options in this part, You can even put number of heavy books on the strap :)

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Next You have to make the ..... (I cant find a word for it, as Im no english native speaker also :)) thing that holds the longer part of the strap. The way to do it is almost the same as above. You can get the idea from the pics.

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You can either glue it, or make a simple loop stitch. About stitching - further in the post :) And then fit IT in the right place, and glue the rest of the leather as shown on the picture.

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You end with a complete stitchless and holeless strap :)

Now its time to prepare the holes for the stitching part.

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First put your watch lug tube in the strap (or something alse of similar shape), this will help You, to get the stitching line distance from the top of the strap most accurate. Remember to get this line straight and at exact distances from both edges. Believe me, every 1mm of difference will make Your eyes bleed :)

With help of spike, razor, knife or anything else, try to make straight lines on the part of the strap You would like to have the stitching, and its important to choose the visable, front side of the strap.

Now the hard part, amateur hole punching :p Tools required are spike, hammer, ruller and loads of patience.

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This is the way I do it, but I quess there is many other ways. So through the lines You have made before, You make holes exact same distance from each other. I prefer 4mm, but I quess its Your choice what distance to choose. Anyway, put a ruller next to the line, put a spike on the place You would like to have a hole, and strike it with hammer.

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Remember to strinke from the frontal side of the strap, as the spike can go a little away from the point You put the spike on the front side and i result, after making number of holes, You can get not nessesary a straight line of holes on the back of the strap. Thats why :)

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Then simply punch another and another hole, till Your strap is ready for the stitching!!

C - Stitching

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Choose the thread of size, color and facture You like and arm yourself in even more patience. This is, imo, the taughest part of the whole process.

I use the simple loop stitching, just follow the pics, and everything will be clear :)

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Wuoala! The stitching is ready, now cut the thread, finish it with a little help of Super Glue, You can use sandpaper on the dried glue to not harm your hand. I use the same razor knife I used to leather cutting and it works fine with me.

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You get the strap almost ready to go!! All You have to do is to cut the space for the buckle.

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Then put the buckle and one part of the strap is ready to use :)

The second part of the strap is easier to do, because You simply bend it over, glue it, punch the holes, stitch it, and its ready. For the rounded end of the strap You can use a pro tools, or cut it, I do it that way, with the same razor knive You used before. When the second part is finished You have Your brand new self made custom strap :)

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UPDATE 12.06.2006

So You asked about the sizing holes... This is the best method imo but You may use another. Excuse me for using a done already strap, but Im too lazy to do another one now :p

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Just put the buckle on the strap, put the watch on Your wrist, bend back the buckle pin and meshure you wrist with it (just tighten it until youre satisfied) then take a spike, or some pen, whatever, just to make the mark where You have to put the first and the most important sizing hole. Then just use punchers on this one mark, and mark the other places to put the rest of the sizing holes if You want them.

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These are the punchers I use. For my pictured here buckle, that has GPF style buckle pin I use round puncher. For the tang buckle I used to use the second one, pictured on the right that is oval. Did I paid big money for it as it is a very rare tool to get? No :) I just bought another round one and squized it in a vise until I got the right shape of the puncher. It works perfectly and it costed very little money compared to the ones You can buy online.

And thats mostly it about making sizing holes :)

In the end...

Id love to read Your comment on this and see pics of somebodys self made straps :) If any questions, please feel free to PM me or post here. I will try to help.

Best regards,

Kuba

Edited by pubus
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Thanks for the comments guys!! :)

And yes, I missed that part. I use simple puncher shown on the first pic. Its these two items between hammer and razor knife.

As for the sizes I simply try the strap on, before making sizing holes, and mark the place where I need to do the hole. Thats the place just there where Your buckle goes on the strap and the buckles pin goes trough the strap. Then it depends, but You can sure make holes at small or big distances. This is simple also. I will provide additional photos this evening, or tommorow. So stay tuned :)

And thanks again :yahoo:

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I see some straps with finished edges. Hard to explain but it looks like they have a thin piece of leather covering the edge which shows the glued sides. Anyone know how they do this?

Usil

Basicly You have use some kind of sealant, but I dont know what kind exactly, so I paint the edges. Havent painted in this tut tho.

and its the same for smaller leather bands as well i'm assuming, just use thinner leather?

the major problem with leather thickness i the little space between Your watch case and lugs. In Panerais You get enough for even very thick leathers, I have an old fantasy pam rep which has pins. Theres no way I could get this strap on that watch. This is the only thing You have to bother about when You choose the leather.

Cheers,

Kuba

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Great great job !!!! :D

I use for my straps particular leather.

For instance the leather of the woman shoes and the wallets they are excellent to get special straps.

I use hard cardboard pierced to make the holes precise.

I use the press of wood to crush well the leather.

For make seams as the machine I put the thread in two needles and I use them in reverse order.

Edited by MAHLER
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I use hard cardboard pierced to make the holes precise.

I use the press of wood to crush well the leather.

For make seams as the machine I put the thread in two needles and I use them in reverse order.

Wow, these are great ideas, but please, tell us more about these methods.

And of course thanks for your kind words :)

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Wow, these are great ideas, but please, tell us more about these methods.

And of course thanks for your kind words :)

Thanks for the trust by now it is notorious that I have problems with the English....

then you don't make us case!!

It tries to explain me:

1) I use hard cardboard pierced to make the holes precise.

It's easy to be realized.

You takes a rectangle of hard cardboard.

You cut it from 2 cms of side to 20 cms of the other side.

You draw with the pencil where I must have made the holes.

Now provided of hammer and of punch or of a strong nail manufactured your holes.

To ended job you will have created your guide.

2) For make seams as the machine I put the thread in two needles and I use them in reverse order.

You take two needles.

You take a long thread.

It now inserts one of them in one of the holes of the strap.

It now inserts the other needle in inverse sense in comparison to the first needle.

Proceeding in this way the strap will be sewn above and under.

The job will appear as served as a machine.

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I have seen a couple of better quality straps, where the leather "outer" is very thin, and wraps around a thicker "inner" strap ( and I assume is glued) leaving one seam on the wrist side, and against an edge.

Then the stitching is done (semi cosmetic) but it would tie the whole strap together.

Sort of like a glued on condom, made of leather!!!

BTW, thanks to both pubus and MAHLER for their contributions to this most enlightening thread.... this sort of discourse is what I think RWG is all about, and what encourages us admin types to keep modding!

Thanks guys, and of course everyone who has contributed.

Offshore

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I am no professional strap maker.

Friend you have done a great "professional" job!!!

BTW, thanks to both pubus and MAHLER for their contributions to this most enlightening thread.... this sort of discourse is what I think RWG is all about, and what encourages us admin types to keep modding!

Thanks guys, and of course everyone who has contributed.

Offshore

Thanks for the trust!!!

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Mahler, thanks for your contribution too!

Your nice idea of a cardboard for the holes makes me wonder if it does exist somewhere sort of a pin line (metal pins lined up and firm at a metal bar like a comb or rake) that can be pushed all at once by the hammer.

I seem to miss any real difference between the one-needle and the two-needles method. If it is, please would anyone explain it?

As for the side painting, I see that a Don's strap here has sort of a gum/rubber paint.

Thank you all again! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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