Seadweller4000 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 I received this watch as an item on loan from my friend Takashi for the second part of my divers’ watch test-special. He not only takes the risk of having it lost in transit, but also the possibility of damages due to my rather rough tests. I am very grateful and if you like this little writeup, please ensure to give Taka a big hand for his generosity! I owe you a beer my friend (or at least an Apfelschorle)! Let’s get started. The rather unknown brand Paul Picot, named after a young but genius watchmaker who lived in the 17th century, was founded during the “Quartz-Crisis” in 1976. Producing a variety of watches, most of them rather dress watches, the 75 year old founder Mario Boiocchi lets his Italian roots flow into every series he builds. Together with the star-designer Hugo Berger who works for Paul Picot from the start in 1976 and also created watch designs for brands like Zenith and Franck Muller, they merely targeted the Italian market before the brand took off internationally. The Plongeur line is designed in strong contrast to the dressy “Tonneau” family of the brand. And contrasts determine the look of the brand, including their advertising concept. When Picot ran a somewhat erotic campaign in 1993, no one other than Helmut Newton was hired to take the pictures. The campaign introduced a new, saucy way of watch advertising that had been rather conservative until then and it went very successful. It was launched worldwide excluding Australia where it got prohibited. (I think she is reading the manual... ) I, however, allow myself now to investigate a little more of the regarded Plongeur. The “diver” as its name translates into English, leaves no doubt about it’s purpose and was introduced in 1988 for the first time. I have seen some fancy two-tone version of it on the internet, flat bezeled with golden indices on black surface. The other “first versions” of the Plongeur I found had already the raised numerals on a thick, stainless steel bezel though. The “B-Type” followed only one year later, but fans had to wait more than 10 years long for the final “C-Type” on which the replica is based we regard here. The “touch” of yellow that appears on magnificent spots throughout the watch-construction confers a sporty elegance. Especially the “anti-friction” ring on bezel and the decoration ring crown add their part to this appearance. They are meant to prevent the negative friction of steel against steel and to ensure a smooth operation. It also lifts the bezel around one millimetre making it easier to grip. Large raised and polished numerals add an artful touch to it and are readily recognisable due to the contrast with the dark metal surface. The good grip is supported by polished square-edged uprisings that chamfer down at the side. Turning the bezel feels a bit wobbly, even though it has a very solid metal sounding click. It clicks 60 times one way around, not 120, but aligns with the minute-scale on the rehaut perfectly. The case is fully polished, with minor exceptions on the parts between the lugs which have a varying brushed and polished finish, same as the outer part of the caseback. This looks precious, but has the disadvantage of attracting scratches almost magnetically. Lugs, as well as crownguards suit the square-edged bezel design with brick like appearance. This continues throughout the full design of the watch; angular numerals on the bezel, square-brick pattern on the rubber strap and of course the design of the dial which will be regarded later – everything is designed harmonious, probably creating the most expensive Lego brick toy ever. Another highlight on this watch is the large crown, emphasised by another yellow ring, which is a pleasure to operate. Well protected between the Lego-style guards, it screws in and out smoothly and the deep longitudinal slip-proof profile ensures good grip even with thick gloves. It reminds a little of a gear, underlining the technical character of the design. Same applies for the screw locked pushers which have a good pressure-point to activate the chronograph function. The crown is triplocked by the way. The top of the crown is decorated with the brands initials (PP), which looks a little like baggy nickel-plated brass, to be honest. The caseback conventionalizes a partly polished cogwheel with a brushed area in its middle where model, brand and limitation number are carefully engraved and even the inside is a little decorated with a cloudy design. Not really beautiful, but what the heck… The limitation number is taken from the white dialled model which is limited to 500 pieces instead of the 999 for the “black” line. All replicas have the number 208/500, fyi. The already mentioned “cogwheel” around this area is engraved with information such as reference and COSC number, etc on the inner circle which is as brushed just like the inner area. It is sealed by a fitting gasket ensuring a pressure-resistance of at least 5 bar as the leakchecker proves. If it can stand the pressure of 100m will the test at the AD show us in a few days. Underneath it runs the well known Asia 28.800 high beat 7750 which has been modified to suit the tricompax layout, this is why the datewheel sits too deep under the datewindow between 4 and 5 o’ clock. Some would say this to be a dead give-away, but I don’t think it is that obvious unless you try to convince a WIS, for the datewheel is white font on black surface. Paul Picot uses a top grade quality ETA 7753 for the genuine, that is why you can see a pusher at ten. It is not a HeV, but a quick date set button, which is of course a dummy on the replica. The movement is a little decorated, but not very time-consumingly in my honest opinion. It has blued screws though and a beautiful rotor (C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobs1971 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Wow, looks like you did it again! Not my cup of tea, but interesting to read nevertheless. And I love the cat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllergyDoc Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Very nice write-up. I received this watch with 2 straps. The yellow one had the lousy clasp but the black strap had a good one. It does not pop open. Anyone swam with this watch yet? Should be okay as per your tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capice Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Another great review B, time to do this instead of study bro? Not my watch but tnx for investing your time and effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiker01 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Kudos! and thanks! Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlcsl Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Great write up SD4K, thanks for taking the time! The clasp on mine is good and secure, it's a fantastic watch, highly recommended! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazarini Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Another instant classic review from B ... congratulations my friend top notch job Pleasure to read Regards laz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
italiano17771 Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 your reviews are simply on a different level than anything ive seen here on any other board! fantastic write-up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 I think I'm gonna buy another one just because.... AWESOME SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornerstone Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Outstanding again!! Thank you. It's a looker, this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawo Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Another fantastic write up. I have this rep and love it more with the review Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmetalprog Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 What a fantastic review Seadweller , congratulations , every single details is reviewed and well describe . Even the way of presentation , looks like magazine report/test , really cosmetics with nice macro pictures , you should get rewarded for this. I've got this watch , one of my favorite during spring/summer time , it's actually thrue claps sucks , I personally tried to mod it fisrt by streching small springs inside , it works , it's really keeps claps locked , so I will find stronger spring in market and then swap it. Thanks again for this nice review. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_brian_ Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 (I think she is reading the manual... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_brian_ Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Just a question out of curiosity: I had a look at the test results and the bottom line was 20sec/day in average. I was just wondering if this movement would be serviced - let Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manitou Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Very nice review. I have a few issues with my clasp, but it rarely pops open, so it doesn't bother me greatly. I have the white dial version with white rubber strap. Looks REALLY stunning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takashi Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 I would think so... With servicing, beat and accuracy adjustment, you are getting a pretty good movement. You may wish to take a look at SD's Test on Panerai 196. That's for unserviced movement but I am lucky enough to adjust the accuracy on PAM196. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 It's all been said above B the only thing I'll add is you're a credit to our community. Thank you for another outstanding review. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubbchubb Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Dankesch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_brian_ Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 I would think so... With servicing, beat and accuracy adjustment, you are getting a pretty good movement. You may wish to take a look at SD's Test on Panerai 196. That's for unserviced movement but I am lucky enough to adjust the accuracy on PAM196. It Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 Once again you did it! Another amazing writeup!!! Thanks to Takashi too... he's an unselfish, helpful person and a good friend of mine as well! Great work guys... I'm waiting anxiously for the diver rep chronograph test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seadweller4000 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 Thank you all guys for your nice words! I simply love being a part of this community. Takashi told me he asked his dealer for a better clasp. As soon as he got it I will update this test. Right now I am moving to a new home in a different city so I might not be able to work on the chronograph test as I would like - I have studies to do as well... Hope I will be able to put it up asap so Taka gets his watches back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chronoluvvv Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Thanks a bunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1976 Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Thank you Seadweller4000 for an exellent review.I also have this watch and i get a lot of copliments on the yelow strap.The bad thing with that watch is that the Ar is very easily sctatched and the best thing it is made for free diving,i did test it on that. Best Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Thanks SD4K and Taka both! This was an excellent read, and great photos as well. Keep up the great work. It was nice to see your take on the design of the watch, given that the combination of rubber (yellow at that) is something that makes this piece stand out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mysterio Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 Thank you to SD4K and Taka for this review. I hope the clasp issue is fixed soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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