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New rep with 'Swiss' Eta 2836-2 is 22 sec./day fast


mick92627

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Hi Gang,

I thought about posting this to the Breitling Area, but I am certain this movement is in many different brand reps.

I bought a wonderful Breitling recently, the SFSO super-rep, from one of our trusted members here, and I am very pleased with it. But I do notice after tracking it for several days at the same time each day, using both the time.gov website, and my shortwave atomic clock which checks in several times a day with WWVB in Fort Collins, CO, that the SFSO is consistantly 22 seconds fast each day. So every three days, it's off by about a minute.

I get that these are not quartz movements and a few seconds a day is no biggie. I was just wondering to myself if 22 seconds was excessive in a watch I've only had for a week. And if the answer is, "yes, that's excessive," what should I do to address the situation.

Anyone care to comment?

Thanks in advance,

mick92627

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Guest carlsbadrolex

22 seconds per 24 hour period in a rep is not awful. Its also not that great...

Here is a tutorial on how to adjust the beat and timing on a 2836. I have used this method to adjust all of my 2836's to within 5 seconds per 24 hour period, and some of them as accurate as +/- 1 sec per 24 hours period.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/Adjust-Rep-s-Tim...sting+time+beat

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Here is a tutorial on how to adjust the beat and timing on a 2836...

Ah, surgery. I was hoping to avoid that, but I know a lot of you guys do these sorts of things and way more on a routine basis.

OK, I'll do some research and buy some tools and see where it gets me. Thanks very much for the link.

mick92627

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Guest carlsbadrolex

At a +22 sec per 24 hours, you should be able to get it pretty close without moving the timing arm. Simply stop the watch (pull stem out), open the back, move the rotor out of the way, and with a 1-1.2mm micro screw driver move the adjustment screw 4 tick marks to the left. That should adjust it to slow 20 seconds per 24 hours and put you in COSC regs.

If it gets to the point where you need to adjust the timing arm, (a little more complicated)... You will need to remove the rotor and auto winding plate (1 screw in rotor and 2 very small blue screws in the auto wind plate DO NOT REMOVE the large silver screw, it is not holding the plate in... you see it through a hole in the plate!)

The timing arm is the smaller of the two arms. And the one that you have now uncovered... Adjust it less then .5mm. I mean seriously if you see it move with the bare eye, you moved it too far. You would now most likely be running a little slow and will then need to adjust the screw again to get close.

Sounds complicated, and without a timing machine it takes time. I adjust and let sit for 6 hours. I then multiply the error x4 and adjust accordingly.

The new DSSD that I purchased this week has run +1 over the last 40 hours after adjusting it.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

T

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don't know if it is the link that 'carlsbadrolex' posted, but i advice you to after you unscrewed the caseback to move in on adjusting the small arm near the balance, to pull out the crown to time setting (hack) so that the balance will stop moving and you can savely adjust the speed of the movement.

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  • 5 years later...

HI,

Does anyone have a recent link to a tuturial on adjusting a 'Swiss' ETA 2836-2 ?  The link in the thread is no longer valid.     I too purchased a Rep with "swiss" eta 2836-2 and it is running at least 27 seconds fast after the first day of use.    When I received the QA pictures, the TimeGraph showed    +000s/d   with the graph between 4 an 5, beats showing 28800.     This to me should mean the time is highly accurate, however after shipping from China, could this adjustment be thrown off  ?

 

post-68254-0-23193000-1416408560_thumb.j

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Those timegrapher shots are almost useless other than seeing that the amplitude and beat error which are very good on that movement. The actual seconds per day is highly correlated to how much tension is on the main spring and what position the watch is in.

 

With 10 winds or a good shake it could be minus 150 s/d. With another 10 winds it could be minus 50 s/d. Fully wound it could be plus 20 s/d. Also the actual timing can vary greatly depending on whether the watch is face up, face down, crown up, or crown down. It's best to wear it for a week or two and get an average of how much fast or slow it's running on your wrist. Then adjust the movement to your wearing habits. But no matter what, it'll never be close to a quartz. And these movements are the bottom of the barrel as far as quality so don't expect COSC standards.

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Never go by the timeogrpaher pics a TD sends you.

At most, they wind them a few winds and measure it for like 4 seconds. Not nearly enough time to get a good reading.

Nothing stops them from moving things around to get the best reading.

Those pics are to prove it's ticking and it's the right beat rate.

Give your watch a full wind. Wear it for a couple of days and then check. Sometimes it changes quite a bit after regular use.

If you still need to adjust it, just google adjusting a automatic watch. It's pretty easy.

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Here http://www.christopherwardforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2339

BUT BEWARE there is a really WRONG thing there.

What there is described as "coarse adjustment arm" is not that! That one is the stud where the hair spring ends. If you move that you influence the beat error and that is not a good thing.

The real "coarse adjustment arm" is below the autowind bridge, see my reply at page 4 of that thread.

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Thanks Gentle, fine link. Until now I only finetuned within the +-, but now I got curious. How exactly/which way do You accelerate / decelerate the golden thingy when a watch is running really fast or really slow? Jut interested, might need it someday. Whenever You have a pic of it that would be fine.

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You'd better have a sort of timegrapher for doing it well. Really moving the adjustment of 0.1mm may change the time up to 30sec/day.
To understand the direction is easy: if you lenghten the part of the hairspring that works then the balance will rotate a bit slower. If you shorten it then the balance will run faster.

 

In other words, if you move the coarse regulator in the direction of the stud that keeps the end of the spring you'll make the balance to run slower (so the watch will run slower), if you move it farther from the stud that keeps the end of the spring the balance will run faster (so the watch will run faster).

 

Also you really have to take ultracare not to get in contact with the hairspring with the tool that you use to push the regulator... It's the easiest way to kill a movement ;)

Edited by GenTLe
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Do not touch that watch!  Find a smith close to you and let him or her set it for you.

Why Matt? I've done this to many of my own watches without any problems.

Why not try to teach yourself some of these 'minor' things to do yourself?

If you just take it easy, go slow and be patient you'll be fine. I get a great satifaction

when I do my own work / repairs. Nothing like getting inside and knowing your

watch personally.

Good luck!

 

Dave...

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