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Guys you have to watch this if you like petrol, engines or motorbikes or all three! On Saturday after re flashing the ECU and fitting a Stage 2 Kit and our own H2R exhaust we managed to squeeze an amazing 284.89 bhp out of my H2! DynofootageH2.mp4

From my experience, the best way to solidly mount a dial with no feet on an Eta 28xx is to use a spacer that: 1 - fits around the movement with little or no side to side movement 2 - fits snugly inside the inner diameter of the case with little or no slop 3 - can be used with case clamps and screws 4 - rises above the top of the movement and eliminates the original el cheapo thin, flexy calendar spacer. The dial can be held in place by 'dial dots' during assembly and the case clamps/screws will hold it all firmly in place. Where to find such a spacer? The CNC made 'Stilty Spacer' was the best but Stilty has gone south (or north). This leaves other custom made spacers and Yuki has them but they are pricey. For a first class project there are few $hortcut$ though. Here are the dimensions of a rolex 16220, 1016, 5512/13 spec case to Eta 2836/46 Stilty Spacer: OD = 28.5mm with a step down to 27.45mm about half way down the outside edge on the dial side. ID = 25.6mm with a step out to 26.0mm on the dial side about half way down the inside wall. Thick = 2.2mm. A spacer like this will allow an Eta 2846 with no date works or spacer to be mounted in a 5512/13 or 1016 spec case with the correct dial. Remember that MBK cases are basically rolex 1680 spec inside but most will have 5513 size 26.0mm dial openings no matter what reference number so spacers etc will be different sizes. The Stilty Spacer specs above are from the spacer I used in a '1016' project with a genuine 16220 case, Eta 2846, and genuine spec dial with feet removed. No flimsy oem Eta calendar spacer was used. The 16220 case inside dimensions are about the same as the inside of a genuine rolex 5512/13. Before I put the Eta 2846 in the 16220 case in 2008, I put a rolex no date 1570 (without any calendar parts or spacer and with low profile no date center wheel/cp, hour wheel etc) in a 16220 with a genuine 1016 dial in 1997 and it all went together with no hassle at all. This was before RWG, Stilty Spacers etc and the watch that the movement came in only cost $450 back then...a rolex 1505 opd with tt bracelet. Stilty Spacer https://rwg.cc/topic/116411-yuki-eta-2824-adaptor https://rwg.cc/topic/74384-noobmarniner-movement#comment-453732 Yuki spacer info https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/#!/ETA-adaptor-set/c/6702300

what i used was double sided 3m scrap-booking tape on the dial spacer ring. install ring on movement position dial properly and set on to movement.

I was planning on using this method for my gen 1680 dial although now I have decided not to use that dial http://www.homageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1419&sid=6e4bb8917694bf4cb2aef05321cb3b82

Weekend production

@automatico, I agree. The main problem is that too many people try and pass off builds as something they are not. You see frankens show up at high end auction houses and on Ebay all the time. Seen plenty of frankens on reputable gen sites, but they are frankens comprised of all genuine parts. So the scammers that try and make a profit by misrepresenting what they are selling influence the view of franken watches. Generally this view is negative--at least by the genuine collectors. Talking about the general watch collecting public outside of the rep forums. That view tends to paint anyone who does franken builds as doing something wrong or that they/we are up to no good. Had a long discussion with a collector the other day about this. He could not understand why I would invest so much time and money into something that was not all original. I could not explain it to him effectively. The funny thing is that most of the people I have met on the rep boards and especially those that are doing franken builds are some of the nicest and most honest people I have met. In general most of us lose money on these builds and it is really for the enjoyment of the process and clearly not for profit or to try and fool anyone. But you try explaining that to a regular collector and they generally do not get it. I know I lost money on every build I did. A couple of them I lost a lot of money.... However, I did learn a lot from the experience and education costs. Over the last several months I sold all my builds and have started a pretty nice vintage genuine collection. I find much of the same satisfaction finding a genuine vintage reference that I did doing builds. It is not like I can go down to the AD and purchase a mid 60's gilt Sub. It takes much time and effort to find a specific example in the specific condition you are looking for. At this point, I do not have any builds going, but I will again in the future. I have a couple of old crappy watches that I am working on to learn. I have been acquiring more tools and setting up my workbench so that I in the future, I can do a build from start to finish on my own. At some point as these vintage watches become harder and harder to find parts for, you may see a shift in the view of using aftermarket parts. Much like we have seen with muscle cars.

I've seen some on our Taiwan friends(old etatw2011 guy) YouTube videos showing a v6s with wrong longer sels!! Disappointing!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If it's made like the genuine, then the screw on the case back directly underneath it will be holding it in place. If this is the case, unscrew the screw on the case back and then the screw on the front should be loose and you can reseat, then screw in the screw on the case back again to hold it in place. If the rep also has this design feature, it is probably water-resistant too, but get that tested