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I recently purchased a 5513 mbw from the latest batch and changed some parts by myself. First of all I have to say the quality of the mbw is very nice, however since I never had a gen in my hands I can't vouch for its accuracy but there are plenty of discussions about that. Nevertheless, it is a very well made case set and I figure certainly more accurate than the new cartel version. Yesterday, I got my hands on a 5512 from the latest cartel batch. I replaced the dial and hands by yuki, installed a very good plexi and an 702 athaya crown and tube. Lubed all the orings to make sure it is watertight. Compared to the mbw it is very close after the mods I have to say and in case you don't want to spend too much the cartel is a very very nice option and the cg's can certainly be improved with some sanding. I really like both watches and I am going to drill the lug holes on both in the near future. Take a look at the comparison pics. The one with the spring bars is always the mbw.

No amount is to much. The cost of the frankens is determined by the parts that are used. Take a franken datejust. Gen case, a nice one, is $300 Most of the time it will come with a crystal that can be polished, if not, gen crystal is $85- $120. Gen bezel is $350- $60, depending on white gold or stainless. Crown is $85, tudor hands are $41 An open 69 dwo is $44. Now, which movement? Swiss is $230-$250 for a fresh genuine. Sa 3135 is $235 Nice stainless bracelet is $650. Add $175 labor. That's it. So, now you have a really nice franken for $1900. You can buy a full gen for around $2850. A gen 3135 movement is around $1500. Subtract that from the price of the watch, it leaves $1350. That's less than you have in the franlen. But, your franken is complete, and you have no movement in your gen. I think now it comes down to just how much fun do you want to have. Anyone can go buy a gen ready to go. Building it is way more fun. If for no other reason than to see how gen you can make it look. Most people that build a franken can afford a gen with no problem, but why not save some money. This is a build of an old style datejust. When you get into the new style, the price difference is much greater. A new style franken and a new style datejust have a gap of at least $4000. That is significant.

Can you stack them on top of each other and take a profile shot? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Riding the bike to a Bluegrass festival in Alabama.. Not the typical scenario for a PAM, but it was perfect none the less.. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I confirm what rolojak wrote: the fake pinion is glued to the plate: And a pic of the movement without the autowind bridge. It looks well made

Up to Maine for the weekend. Just in case I find myself in the water I've got it covered.

Look forward to get mine...i will try to post a small review with some nice pics under the sunlight. ..when i receive it

Maker: Anatolia Hand Made Watch Straps of Turkey Email: cengizseker_1@hotmail.com Cost: USD80.00 when I bought it. RGDS WKK The enemy of my enemy is my friend [emoji41]

Apple-Green Calf skin leather with a polished steel pre-v buckle. RGDS WKK The enemy of my enemy is my friend [emoji41]

I got stuck on the old site and I can't get back, so I thought 'ya ol left me.....If not for MOB's message on my email, I thought it was over.....jeeeezzzz. Good to see some old farts here. Nikki, Dude, so happy to know your still alive. How's Dad?

@Avenue @ChrisBlank I've just picked up what others have taught, reading the Rolex-forums here, on RWI, RG and so on. A lot can be found using the search function either here or on google. A good "background" to start is this: http://rwg.cc/topic/142137-gen-rolex-gmt-master-ii-ceramic-vs-noob-rep Although it's from 2012 and GMTc, the basics are still valid. Then look at genuine pictures, and Noob v6s and compare to other reps. Go to a Rolex AD and feel + look at the watch in question. I'm using the Noob v6s (as the bracelet is almost spot-on) as example and pictures from InTime (since the lighting is excellent!) Okay, step 1, The angle & lengths REP GEN ^ 1) The angle of the "middle link" in the SEL is a bit "higher" and less slope than the case lugs slope ; 2) It is also (of course) longer ^ 1) The "outer links" start by following the slope of the case lugs, but then starts declining and has a higher slope around the middle of the distance REP ^ 2) They are shorter Step 2, tightness and flush ^ The backside should basically sit flush to the case (a little tiny gap, yeah) however the level of the SEL should neither create a "step up" or a "step down" ^ also the gap between the lugs and the SEL should be tight (little light passing through). TC, that makes the classic Sub 11610 matches his SELs/bracelets with different tolerances to create this effect. However... there is no such thing as a gap-less bracelet. GEN ---- When you think you've picked up what it's all about, check this thread out: http://rwg.cc/topic/183576-noob-116610-v6s-sel-irregularities Train that eagle eye. It was hard in the beginning, I didn't understand all the SEL-talk either... --------------------------------------- Also.. I should add. The SEL-fitment is that way on most BPs. It simply has to do with the fact that the BP-bracelet isn't "100%" so... Live with it, or look for a JF / LF-bracelet in the the M2M-ads. I would chose to live with it and accept it's flaws. Otherwise... The mish-mashing begins, and you will notice how you suddenly have a Noob v3/v6s midcase, gen bezel insert, LF/Noob-bracelet, gen crown, gen crystal, TC LV v2-hands, relumed dial+hands and a big hole in your pocket and spare parts you have no use for.