JWR

what would be a 'better movement'? the genuine has a handwound lemania movement... the venus is bang on reliable and accurate in my experience

its a genuine, quartz?

Is it just me, or are the hands on the running seconds and 12 hour subdial swapped? The running seconds looks awful small... the 12 hour looks awful big...

$15,000 usd + replacement cost of the transmitter... i'd pull it drunk sometime, im sure of it.

Has anyone else ordered one of these and received it? Just curious...

Not even the appearance of a JLC gyrotourbillon could make that bearable.

Isn't the rep Quartz?

Loc-tite Red it is..!

Agreed. Laurentian abyssal and thunderball are favorites.

Wow, so they made it blingier? I'm stunned. I really do like the Flying B tank a lot though.

Really? I figured the turning action of the crown to wind would be enough to work that loose...

So, big'uns everywhere that there's a hole for them? sorry... had to...

Was wondering if anyone could shed a little light on the appropriate glue and/or technique to use to install a new PAM crown. I assume that simple loctite threadlocker is insufficient for this job...

FYI: stem extenders from Otto Frei work flawlessly. Ask for a tap 10 to tap 6 extender to change a .9mm stem to 1.2 so as to fit these crowns.

i'm going to cut the stem down so as to keep it at the right length, hopefully.

Archibald- I totally agree that a 100% functionally accurate sprung crown that didn't suffer from wobbly-crown syndrome would be optimal. However, for me currently, from an aesthetic perspective, I'd prefer the lack of a spring and its associated wobbly problems to perfect functional replication of the original.

I really don't care for the text on the dial of the 253, or the single blue hand... make them all blue or something. that being said, my two favorite pams are the 212 and the 222, so it would seem as if the 253 would almost be a hybrid of the two...

to others: feeel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but: in my experience, sprung crowns, as they are slightly wobbly by design, when paired with a standard rep crown guard (which is not perfectly designed to strike the crown at dead center every time) can produce a crown that, when simply locked in normal fashion, will be slightly crooked (generally, with the crown facing slightly inward towards the dial on the 12 o clock top half). - this can be fixed by fiddling with the crown, but it's an annoyance. It might be only a few degrees, but, to my eye, it's noticeable. Additionally, if you are showing someone your watch, and you open and shut the CG, your crown will be locked out of straight -- a dead giveaway. It can be mitigated with reshaping of the CG lever, which i've done, but it still can occur from time to time. Watches that i've had with unsprung crowns have not had this issue, as there is not enough play in the crown beyond a miniscule flex of the stem to allow this to occur. Watches with 1950 style crowns (which are unsprung and come to a point at which the CG and crown meet) are 100% immune to what i've described above.

perfect! exactly what i wanted to hear

i believe that springs are internal -- if you push in on the crown while it'sin the winding position, does the crown wiggle or seem to have any play in it?

there's an easy way to fix that though; you can order a stem extender that accepts a .9mm stem and presents a 1.2 mm stem -- what I just did! You guys will see one of these on a 222 sometime in the near future! V, is the crown sprung or unsprung?

How does one fix the bezel insert alignment? AKA, how is the insert attached to the bezel? is it stuck in, or is it a pressure fit ala some subs...

are these the 2007 prices in USD? $4000 for an Explorer I sounds ludicrous.

id love to see one sized down to 47 mm or so.

One of my favorite watches is the previous generation of the mille miglia chrono... unfortunately it's quite small (38mm) and a bit precious looking for a sport watch.