capice

Another “amazing” contribution...😭 Sure you are on the right forum? You sound like a 15 year old

fixing the keyless without taking off the hands and dial would be a very hard task brother....

great info mate, thanks for sharing

Inspired by the amazing work on all rep fora I finally bit the bullet...So I got me a few vintage Tudors and Rolex(es)? a while ago as a project for modding. After reading, trying, screwing up, rereading, retrying I finally came out with a first result on a 7928. First the Asian clone which didn’t run was replaced with a gen Eta I had in my parts box. Still trying to find a gen Tudor vintage rotor but for now it is ok. Then I filed down the dimples on the crown as I hadn’t have a correct crown. I “relumed” the hands and markers with a mix of tea, lemon juice and freeze dried coffee to get the tone I was looking for. My first attempt wasn’t what I wanted as I put too much of the color at once on the hands so I retried and used 4 layers on the lume and also on the hands to get a vintage effect. Trial and error with the casework,...I screwed up the first case as I went too far reshaping it….In the end I got my second case the way I liked it. Materials used: files, dremel, scotchbrite, sandpapersticks 360 and 1000 grain and sandpaper 1000. The usual mods followed…..I bought some 2 mm pushpins, drilled the lugholes. Next thing was to age the bezel. I put the insert in a cup with lemon juice and put it outside in the sun for 2 weeks…:( no result gggrgrggrgrg$%^& so I tried some bleach and got me a ghost bezel in less then a minute…..again it turned out that less is more as the bleaching went too fast so I ordered some inserts to experiment with…. I also sanded the bezel edges. So here is the result, it needs more tweaking….but as a total newbie on modding I am not unhappy…Sorry for the bad pics as I had no patience to make good ones...Any advice is appreciated….

welcome aboard, a ton of knowledge here

No powerreserve so needs a service and/or a new mainspring...Is it a V1 or a V2, the V1'a had stem problems...I heard the V2 is a bit better but has quality driving and reversing wheels You can swap it for a new SA3135 or if you want to install a 2824-2 into a Rolex that used to have a SA3135 / SH3135 movement, then you will need: 2824-2 movement (with H4 wheels/pinion preferably for clearing the indices, unless you managed to source proper hands liek Noob V7 ETA 2836-2 sub hands that have elongated posts). ETA hands (can be extremely rare and hard to source - e.g. 214270 long hands in ETA form are impossible to find - not even my TDs can source them separately). movement ring. ETA stem (comes with movement typically). DWO (datewheel overlay). dial spacer. new dial feet (to relocate the dial feet for ETA movement position)

I know Stefane has at least 2 nice ones these days...;)

good ol' days that were....:)

tell us some specs.....

I put my 7928 and 5513 on vintage leather...have some straps with vintage buckle left if interested....

lol, I think you don't contribute anything to this forum but annoyance and bad attitude....

You are still here?

ouch...still, an amazing project. Inspired me to have a look in my watchbox and I found an old ETA 2782 which is running,...going to use that for a project

you might consider the new VR3135.......

good info, thanks for sharing

you are welcome...

it is.... In 1957, Rolex set about replacing their 1000 series of calibers. These were the first family of movements created entirely in-house by the manufacturer. It also introduced the next generation. Rather than launching the 1500 series in a great sweeping confusion across the board, they phased them in gradually over a number of years. These ran concurrently with the previous mechanisms in several models. They introduced Rolex Caliber 1520 and 1530 into this new wave. The Rolex Caliber 1530 was the first of the new wave. It was the base caliber upon which the rest of the range would be founded. The Rolex Caliber 1530 As a movement, the 1530 represented a major reworking on its predecessor. This explained Rolex’s tiptoeing approach towards its introduction. There was a host of new technology that still had to prove its worth out in the real world. Rolex originally launched it as a 17-jewel movement. Additionally, it went through a number of significant upgrades itself during its successful run before retiring in 1965. Joining the first iteration, they also released it in 25 and 26 jewel versions. Its initial butterfly rotor graduated to the familiar half-moon type. Also, they replaced the brass colored gears with the red, Teflon-coated variety we generally see today. While extremely precise and reliable, they considered the Caliber 1530 very much a workhorse caliber. Therefore very few were submitted for chronometer certification. Instead, Rolex fitted the movement into several of their non-chronometer models, such as the Air-King and the earliest versions of the Submariner, watches they initially deemed not to need mechanisms that had passed the rigorous COSC tests. However, ask any watchmaker today what in their opinion is the best movement Rolex ever produced, and many will still say the Cal. 1530. Its lack of certification was down to its relative difficulty in regulating consistently rather than its overall accuracy. Before the innovation of Microstella screws were first introduced in 1959 on the Cal. 1565, the previous screw balance was far trickier to adjust, especially considering the volume of movements Rolex produce. A comparatively low frequency caliber—18,000bph instead of the standard 28,800bph of all modern day Rolexes—the Cal. 1565 produced a five beat per second tick rather than the smoothly sweeping eight. The Rolex Caliber 1520 In 1963, in a curious and extremely un-Rolex-like move, the Cal. 1530 started its own process of being phased out. Rolex replaced it by the less advanced Cal. 1520. As the numbers suggest, it represented something of a backwards step for the usually progressive thinking company. It was centered on the same architecture as the Cal. 1530, and shared an identical base plate. However, it had several key differences, many of which were designed to keep its manufacturing costs to a minimum. Rolex only produced it with a stick regulator, rather than with the Microstella system that had found its way onto the departing 1530 by the end of its run. The Breguet overcoil of the majority of Rolex’s output was substituted for a traditional flat hairspring, and it was originally released as a 17-jewel movement, although 25 and 26-jewel versions joined the range later in the production cycle. An Impressive Performer However, even with all the cost cutting measures, the Rolex Caliber 1520 was still an impressive performer. Rolex never intended to submit it for chronometer certification. With the full weight of the company’s engineering legacy behind it, it provided the brand’s ‘Precision’ models with a beautifully built and highly accurate engine. Its increased frequency, 19,800bph up from the previous 18,000bph, gave it an extra boost in both timekeeping ability and resilience to shocks, and it remains a favorite among watch repairers for its workmanship and ease of maintenance. Along with its date function equipped counterpart, the Cal. 1525, the Rolex Caliber 1520 powered Rolex’s limited selection of non-chronometer watches until 1980. By then, all but the Air-King had gained the certification and the 3000 series of calibers had arrived, becoming the standard issue for Rolex until the present day.

It doesn’t look like you know a lot about reps nor do you know the rules here nor do you know how to behave normal... so say goodbye and crawl back under your stone

Why is this joker still here??

fully 3d printed, no casting

wise man....

+1.....kick his ass straight off

welcome aboard,....

Personal taste bro, I like it way better then the blue insert

Bienvenue et beaucoup de plaisir