offshore

Another prob with plating kits, is that you must prep well first. to do that you must know exactly what metal you are plating. And that in itself is problematic. Get it somewhat wrong, you get zero result...partly right , will give a patchy result....what I am saying is you must get everything right to get anything like an acceptable result. I have a Caswell kit, and only ever use it for "touch up" plating. (with varying results) You will spend a couple of hundred getting the kit and solutions, and you can get 2 or 3 watches professionally plated for that amount. I send most of my jobs out! O/S

I trust you have had your credit card amputated! Nothing more dangerous than the internet, a watch obsession, and a hospital convalescence. Get well soon mate, we miss you here. Offshore

He only lives next door to you CS. You should call around for a physical inspection...they are mighty fine straps, and are built with a lot of care and attention. Good to see Bob. Very nice indeed. O/S

Thought this was worth a look. Butterfly destroys roof. Offshore

Lani, Well done, not the quantity.....but the quality! You are an inspiration to all those around you. Thanks for being one who will do the hard yards. O/S

The 3 piece leather shapes? About a week out. Or do you mean the bracelet block and punches----In stock. O/S

Yeh, I actually had that watch donated to me, from someone here, about 12-18 months ago, to sort out a repair I had. I pinched a couple of bits off it, and then Col was here one day and said he needed a couple of things, so I passed it on to him. My gut feeling is that it came from someone in the USA in the 1st instance. Be good if that member can recall this and we can include him in this PAWP (Pass Around Watch Parts) tribute. Yes Lani, just a little more of the sense of community which seperates RWG from other fora, (of all persuasions) And WnR, remember to pass the favour forward, if you ever have the opportunity. O/S

I believe most markings are on the inside case back. So you will need to remove the case back, and I guess all will be revealed. Once you have some numbers to work with, you can actually submit an enquiry on the Omega site. Typically you will get an answer in 24-48 hours. O/S

Who says the rep trade denies the Original Manufacturers buyers? Plenty of gens around this place! Nice Shundi, hope it arrives in a timely fashion. O/S

In my many years around the forums, I have never completed a review, so this is a first. In truth it is mainly for my benefit, as I am seeking some feedback as to what the members here think of the price VS quality argument. As most here know, I have recently entered the tools business, and each day I sit pondering these quality and pricing questions. So I would like to take a real life scenario, and look at three very similar (from the outside) tools. In question here, is a lever style, bracelet pin remover. Innocuous enough you may say, it just pushes out pins in bracelets.... sh*t I can do that with a hammer & punch! And yes, you can! However if you are doing it regularly, one of these is a real timesaver. So let's analyse 3 different models- First up a Chinese built unit, regularly offered on ebay from say $12-$20. Note that the "throat" is very narrow. In fact it is only 21.0mm wide, so any wider bracelet than about 21mm will not fit inside. Next, in trying to line up the pusher with the pin head, you need at least a couple of mm clearance to view what you are doing, so in reality this unit will push pins from a maximum 19mm wide bracelet, at best. In reality more like 18mm. The head of the pin pusher carrier, which acts on the lever arm face is very roughly finished, so combined with a raw metal finish on the lever arm, the action is "rough" This one is supplied with a spare carrier and pin, although both pins are the same size, 0.8mm. Next up is an Indian built unit, which initially I thought was offering all the answers. These are available around in the $18 -$30 price bracket. The "throat" on this unit is a little wider at 22.6 mm, allowing for a 20mm bracelet to be viewed and pushed. However note that the lever does not allow the pin to retract completely, so unless the pin is shortened, the workable area is in fact 19mm with an 18mm bracelet being the optimum. This one does have however, some level of machining on the pin pusher carrier, and also on the lever arm face, so a good smooth action is felt. It comes also with a spare pin /holder. Fitted, is 0.84mm pin, and the extra supplied is 1.04mm. Seeing the 3 normal pin sizes found are 0.8, 0.9, and 1.0mm,I guess these 2 cover most scenarios It is supplied with a fabric zippered pocket, external finish is anodised, and it presents reasonably well. Pity about the throat width! These when seen sell at $20 -$35. Finally is an "Anchor" brand- model from Japan. The throat on this one is a whopping 35mm with 32mm being a workable/useable size. So most bracelets known, will easily be worked on inside this unit.(As long as they are wide ones!) The action is smooth and clean, all surfaces are well machined and finished (it has a nice knurled main arm with a plastic mouldedfinger grip.) and a clean anodised external appearance. This one is also supplied with a spare pin/pusher measuring0.075 (presumably for a 0.08mm hole,) and fitted was a 0.0975 pin. It came in a velcro sealed PVC case, easily the best of this group. It however is also the most expensive, and has the drawback that due to the wide throat, you can only push bracelets down to about 14mm as the pin runs out of "travel". These sell on the 'bay from $25 upwards, and I have seen them at well over $40! I am now using the 2nd and 3rd of these, to cover all options. One annoying factor I have identified, is that they each use a marginally different size/style of pin/carrier, which means carrying spares for both models. In daily useage I have also identified an issue with the size of the gap on the "out" side of theunit. I have enlarged mine, as I found if you weren't exactlysquare, you could "lock up" the pin coming out, and break a pin tip. So there you have it, a quick round up of a few different models. Now I'm not saying this is anywhere near a full list, just some I have looked at lately. More it is to point out some of the deficiencies found in various tools, and somethings to look for if purchasing one of these. I will be most interested in any thoughts on either the products, or the quality vs price arguement. Offshore

I use Win 7 with Chrome- No problems. O/S

Yep, just like a parts pickup claw, but small plastic grabbers...I sold one on Sunday to a woman with arthritis who had a tiny little dress watch, and couldn't grab the crown anymore. Works a treat. And I reckon it would solve your dilemma! O/S

Hey mate, the answer is just down the road! http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=136 O/S

Yep, looks to be the same cut of the cloth Lani. So 1st things 1st, we'd better remove a registration, so he doesn't break board rules....Now I wonder which one should go? And guess what, some of us have those very spring bars around, oh well as we don't have an addy to send them to, best we just sell them. Couldn't be that cruel...send me a PM Oren, we will see what we can do to "set you up" (So to speak) O/S

I got a very good one from the US about 9 months back for $550. They can range from $250 ->, and anything much over $600 is beyond the pale. (IMHO) If you are going to try to cross reference pricing with some of the Chinese machines, be aware that there are good and bad versions of the Chinese. The really only 1/2 decent one from China is the gen TYMC ( not the rep ), and you will pay from U$650 upwards (in the USA) for these. ( there is an approx U$50 freight content in a machine which is in the USA) I have copies of manuals and circuits if you need. Offshore PS-FWIW there was a B100 which didn't get a bid @A$150 here yesterday.

Well I for one would love to see photos of this collection, especially if he has any information like age, or history, on the pieces. Offshore

Glad it arrived avitt, and that you are satisfied with the unit. We did test quite a few of these before deciding on that particular one. It isn't the cheapest going around, but it does give an accurate result, and has some longevity. Offshore

On our website, www.watchbitz.com.au, we publish a number of documents which try to assist repairers. This is one.- The information within has been gathered from many resources on the'net and sounds correct to us. Also, if you are using a diamond tester, you are measuring, not applying heat. A diamond tester will not damage AR. Offshore

Hmmmm, that was a really unfortunate choice of words.....when discussing prostitutes! O/S

Thanks DB. I've got my repair arranged. O/S

Photos, and movement ID would help. Please realise that not each watch comes with the same movement, and some of us don't know the specific watch. So if we have photos, or know the movement you are referring to, we can then try to assist. If we are discusing crown tubes, a photo is really the only way to know. Offshore

I have used various "dots" as well as a number of other concepts and ideas, including silicon sealant.(which is not bad, as long as you are VERY selective about where you place it, and consider that it may spread and run!!) I hear what nakortheblue is saying, although I think the specific dots used there, must have been overly thick in the adhesive. We have been testing a few different products, and I finally stumbled across a 6mm wide D/S tape which has extremely strong adhesive. So we are now selling this at the Watch Bitz store- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=267 and have thus far had positive feedback from a number of repairers. Repairers who are working full time and mainly doing quartz work, understand that once a foot has broken off a dial, or a movement which has different feet positions, needs to be fitted, then some form of adhesive is a must, if the job is to be finished economically. Not necessarily recommended by the local watch guild, but I bet practised by 99% of quartz repairers! Offshore.

If it was something which could be fixed by the Admin, it would be done by now. It is a modification which needs to be made by the software producers. And ..."No" we don't ..."just live with it" If you can't use a current browser which doesn't give that problem, then you will need to wait for the upgrade. I use "Chrome" and have no problems... all the problems appear to stem from "vintage" browsers.....a bit like watches really! O/S

I ask the Rx experts here for their opinion on this lot. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/90-crowns-new-old-stock-rolex-tudor-signed-vintage_W0QQitemZ380196674738QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Watches?hash=item58857cdcb2#ht_591wt_958 A little history. First I believe this is not the 1st time this lot or a similar one has been listed. (Think I may have even asked a couple of our RX guys here about it by PM?) Next I have had dealings with the seller, and he is not to be trusted! He comes from a very old watch making family here in Oz, is the black sheep, and has been selling off the family's accumulated stock for at least 5 years on ebay. I had purchased from him (and even met him face to face)...nothing he advertises is TOTALLY false, he just gilds the lily a bit, or more than a bit! So don't go rushing out to snap up a bargain, as there will be more to this lot than meets the eye. However it is an interesting offering....if it's fact; but then "If it's to good to be true..then........." Offshore

Got a link? O/S