JJFlash

Put most of my Pam's on black alligator with deployant buckle. The strap always looks new as no buckle to crease the material. More comfortable than the s/s bracelet or leather with buckle to me.

Valjoux Calibre 72

My most favorite movement for chrono's is still the Venus 175. Of course not applicable for Daytona's. My personal opinion is that the Asian 7750 in the Daytona, even with good lube service, is still a time bomb. The gear arrangement stresses the movement to the max. All quite delicately balanced. Only a matter of time before it goes belly up. Pam's with the seconds at 9:00 o'clock is less stressful, and more likely to survive longer. That said I got them all ticking away in the wnders. Old Asian, new improved Asian. Just a few of each as an experiment. As they say, time will tell the longevity of these movements in these configurations. They are yet too new to know for sure.

Beer --- did someone say beer? You now have my undivided attention. Try this one on, last night's beer: Samael's Oak aged ale Avery Brewing Company Boulder, Colorado Oh, by the way --- welcome to the forum. Sorry, I am easily distracted by really good beer, --- and good watches, --- and good looking women.

Finally able to connect this morning in the USA.

http://www.homestead.com/rlx/DON.html

All you manly wristed guys that have been looking for alligator deployant straps in 125/85 size for your Pam's, The Watch Boys are just now carrying this size in the difficult to source black alligator w/black stitching and also the black alligator w/white stitching colors. Though there has been a run on them and they are currently out of stock of the black w/black stitching. However, you can get on their waiting list for the restock supply. Great straps at a good price. Now if I could just source the black cordovan with blue stitching in 125/85 size.

If you look more closely it says "RW.CC", not RWG.CC. This same "replicacenter.com" scam has been operating for years. There are several similiar scam sites that operate the same way. Often show pictures of genuine watches advertised as replicas. Send you a cheap watch at a huge price. Most buyers are not savy enough to know the difference between the two.

You know this mandatory price posting was attempted on The Watch Trader. As everyone knows it just didn't work out that way.

I am most likely to purchase a product if I immediately see the price tag. I see it, I like it, here's the price tag --- consider it sold. Most of my pieces were on impulse buy just like that. I am least likely to buy from a dealer that does not post prices. Mandate prices? No, I don't think so. However, that dealer that does not show prices is least likely to get my business.

As real as they get. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner" 660ft/200m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, Ref.1680. Made for the Oriental market. Production of this reference started in 1976. Fine center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant to 660ft/200m, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch with date, blue bezel and blue dial, with a stainless steel "Flush-Fit" Oyster bracelet.

Its is not the new, improved Asian 7750 movement. Look at the regulator - nothing under the arrow either.

Note the regulator on this new, improved Asian 7750. Thats the easy way to spot them.

Absolutely the best way - look at a picture of the movement yourself. If its not in the ad, then ask the dealer to see a picture of the movement. Its the only way you can be sure if its the new, improved Asian 7750.

That sounds cool to me. Make sure and post some pictures when project is completed.

@kevin300z, Mighty nice looking bezel assortment at timeman site. Have you done business with this person and know him to be reliable? Thanks,

The Persecution of Elliot. Chapter 1 Paneristi takes Elliot down to the whipping post.

Here is my technique for S/S like Rolodex's: 1) Blue Magic Metal Polishing Cream to remove initial thick oxidation 2) Wash off with soap, water and toothbrush 3) Dremel with felt polishing wheel and green rouge all surfaces 4) Wash off with soap, water and toothbrush 5) Apply silicon spray lubricant and soak overnight in zip lock bag 6) Pat dry, do not wash lubricant off 7) Cape Cod cloth polish Wipe off well with clean, dry towel 9) Reassemble bracelet on watch 10) Final polishing with Jewelers red rouge cloth This gives me the best long lasting shine to the metal. Other techniques I have used never seemed to keep the shine very long. I also do the watch case with Dremel and green rouge, followed by Cape Cod, cleaning and red rouge cloth

Needs beat adjustment. Best done by watch repairman. You have done the simple fix.

Excellent post on mid links PT! Your veracity is appreciated! Now our next question: In our replica's, is there truly any gold at all in rose-gold watches? Or is it simply just a metallurgical imposter composed of other non-precious metals?

That is one killer looking crown! Agree

No animosity intended to you at all Richard. Nothing but respect for intelligent discussion with you! Time Zone sums it all up best: "Last word - winders are not a necessity, they are a convenience. You should decide whether they are worth it based on whether you feel inconvenienced resetting your automatics occasionally, and whether they are worth it to you as a luxury item." I don't personally feel that a good watch winders is dangerous to our watches, as previously described. I do believe there is confusion about the physics involved here, as I have clumsily tried to point out. Have enjoyed the point / counterpoint debate with you. Let me buy you a beer.

I recently purchase two Pam's with Asian automatic movements. Both initially had some erratic, (jumpy) second hands. Would seem to pause then surge ahead. Kept good time though. Was annoying to watch this happen. Put them on a watch winder for a week and they both improved. New movements need to be broken in. This will likely smooth out with a little time.

I think this is a totally absurd statement and illogical. My ETA 2836-2 is designed to be fully wound at 650 revolutions per day either clockwise or counterclockwise. If it sits in my watch winder at 650 revolutions per day it is perfectly wound. On my wrist, and I am no couch potato, it vastly exceeds 650 revolutions per day easily. On top of that it suffers the daily iimpacts of bumping door jams, colliding with the desk, clashing on the chair, and many other traumatic forces. I would say the watch is much safer in the winder than on the wrist. I have never broken a watch in a winder, however I have broken several on the wrist. If you believe a watch winder that does not have a "smooth or delicate movements thereby causing unnecessary damage to the delicate workings of your treasured timepiece", then you would never, ever risk wearing that timepiece on your wrist because it would most certainly be instantly destroyed. This reads like propaganda from one of those highly expensive watch winder companys. ---"The only good watch winder is a $2000 watch winder"--- rubbish. The only watch winder that I believe that can do damage, is one that runs constantly. The clutch mechanism would be constantly slipping causing premature wear. If you buy a watch winder, buy one that matches the requirements of the movement. http://www.orbita.at/pages_us/database_us.htm

So Ubi, who has the best replica bezel inserts that we can buy from?