JoeyB

Victoria's Secrets is going belly up and has issued pink slips to all employees...

I love perseverance!! My 6204 Sub is similar in that it has the Brevet big crown. I can't find a Rolex+ crown for less money than I have in the whole watch! So, like yours, it's together and running, and when the parts come along at the right deal we will upgrade. After all, the only ones who would know are here on this site, maybe a handful on one or two other forums, and none on the rest. That gen on the leather strap is nice. The least expensive I've seen for a 6542 has been a little over $9,000, and the high I've seen is $45,000. I like genuine Replicas!

Thank you. I understand. But keep in mind, decal is the way Rolex did it back then.

That's precisely why I came here.

You could do the dial yourself using water-slide decals. I outlined how I have done this in the thread 'Pilot’s Cabin or Executive Suite? No! The Mail Room!', reply #5. Depending on the cost of the watch through our dealers, you should get it under $200 each with an Asian ETA. It'll be tough to bring it in that low with a Swiss.

What's new?

There are no dial feet on the genuine dial. It will take some modding to get it to fit, but can be done. Dial dots to secure it. I used a water-slide decal on my genuine dial that I had really trashed, and saved it. The Tudor hands will fit ETA28xx movements as that was what was genuine in Tudors. The GMT hand will depend on what size you wind up with on your converted 2846. The Genuine hand, and also, fits a 1.8mm, and Clark's has them. Other sizes would need to be made or sourced through China. The nice thing about thing about the early 1675 and 6542, is that the ETA movement is the correct hand stack.

OK, how do you do that? I tried taking pics of the lume and got nothing! All very beautiful watches by everyone. Well done!

Thank you one and all for the kind words. I am rather conceited, so it feeds my ego quite nicely! Something I neglected to post yesterday, and wanted to point out in regards to using a water-slide decal for the dial. From Stephano 's blogspot: Stephano Mazzariol This method used by Rolex 55 years ago is very similar to using the water slide decal. Though I decided against using the tampon... At the local hobby shop I bought the EXPERTS-CHOICE™ Decal Number 121 Clear for Inkjet, from BARE-METAL FOIL Company (248) 477-0813 in Michigan. And I bought Testor's decal sealer spray, 3oz for $5. After several failed attempts to get it right, I called Bare-metal direct and asked their advice. One of the issues I had was the inkjet color bleeding when I sprayed on the sealer. On the white dial the black would bleed a bit purple, and on the insert the blue and red were all over. I am printing at my equipment's highest resolution, 2400dpi, and it is heavy ink. I found that if I let it dry for 3 weeks the bleeding ceased. Well, I could mess up decals much faster than to wait 3 weeks to do it. Bare-Metal suggested using Krylon Acrylic Crystal-Clear spray, 11 oz. $3.97 at Wal-Mart. Solved, no bleeding after an hour drying. Light coats are smooth, heavy coats will give a cracked-aged look once applied. The next issue was the bond. Bare-Metal suggested their 'Micro Set' to make a better bond, and their 'Micro Sol' to set the decal and the claim that it makes the decal look painted on. The Micro Set solution applied to the dial does make the bond better. (So far not as good on the insert, but I'm still experimenting) Initially it looks as though it killed the decal, but it dries nicely. The Micro Sol is a problem. I can't get that stuff to work. It wrinkles the decal too much, and gives a very aged look at best. Using the clear decal paper worked best for me, but they have white paper as well. Inkjet printers do not print white. The blank, white painted dial for ETA from Otto Frei was perfect for the white 6542. On the black dial the gilt does not show up as well on white background, so I painted the dial with an almond color that brought out the gold. To give an idea of all involved so far, I've gone through 6 sheets of 8½ x 11 decal paper. Figure the size of the dials and the size of the inserts, that's a lot of trial and error. But it kept me off the streets! I do love the challenge, and really enjoy playing with my computer to make the dial and insert. I guess most have Photo-Shop, I use ULead only because it came free with some other thing I bought years ago and know how to make it work, and I haven't bothered to learn Photo-Shop. The part I like most is that for under $25 I can make a near perfect looking dial, and in the case of the 6542 and 1675, a dial that is only available in a genuine, and at genuine prices. Please pardon my picture taking skills. Actually, I have none. I've tried for years to take a decent shot with my Brownie, and no joy. All my pics do not do justice to the pieces posted. They really look much better in person.

Well done! A 1675 is in my future.

Lol! You made me look!!! Lanikai should recognize that name. It's the name of a restaurant in Honolulu. Obviously everyone loves the name!

You want the truth?? Where is Nicholson when I need him?? Trust me, the story I posted is better! My disclaimer: No genuine Rolex parts were harmed in the making of this watch. The watch, therefore, is a genuine replica. I'd guess you recognize the Silix case. 21J GMT movement, crystal and case tube from Clark's. Crown and hands are likely Chinese, they were laying around. The 4th hand is homemade, per your tutelage, and the red/black date wheel overlay is my homemade one. The dial is a white blank from Otto Frei to fit ETA 28XX movements, $4. The graphics come from Stephan's site that you introduced me to. That site is superb for making the water-slide decal. The lettering is sharp and clear. So much so that I am re-doing my black dial 6542 next. When I was building the black you might recall that I really messed up the gen dial I had. I decided then to try the water-slide decals to save that dial, and I thought about doing it in white. I was talked out of doing that. I made the black and about a week later you posted your white dial. Printing the black letter on clear decal and apply to a white painted dial just looks stunning. I knew I had to make it, especially after seeing yours. It looks so good that there will be another white dial, a 'custom' 16710 coming. The insert is homemade. I've seen prices on 6542 plastic inserts range from $200 and up over $500 for about 25¢ worth of material. Now, labor rates are lower in Vietnam than what I get, but we're not counting that. I'm being cheap. it's my watch, and I can do as I like! The insert I bought from you that came from Classic Watch Parts looks to be made differently than those from Yuki or NDT in that, the numbers are not molded in as they are with the rest. So, not having any molding equipment, I made it like the Classic is made. I took a piece of .060 Plexiglas and cut out the insert, and shaped it to the bezel. Then I printed a well edited picture of an insert in reverse on clear decal paper, but the blue and red only. I left the numbers clear. Then I applied it to the bottom of the Plexiglas/insert. It took maybe 30, possibly more, before I got this close to being right. Trying to apply a circle decal on the circle of Plexiglas is like trying to flatten out a wet noodle. It has a life of it's own. You move one little bit to adjust, and 3 other things move, and it's all drying while trying to position it. I walked away several times, but I hate being beat so I kept trying. You might notice up on the edge in the blue some white peeking through. This is where the decal has separated a bit from the Plexiglas. But it is very consistent with the pics I've seen of genuine inserts, and the aged look fit this watch. The decals on the dial and the insert are, of course, 'water-slide'. So using a lume with a petrol-chemical base is probably not a good idea. I found some 'Glow-Paint' at an art store for about $5. It is whitish with a bit of green glow to it, and water-based acrylic. I bought a 99¢ kid's water color tin thing at the local dollar store. A touch of brown to the Glow-Paint got the color I wanted, and I relumed the hands, and lumed the dial markers, and used it for the background of the insert, on the decal itself. The white shows through, and the whole damn thing lumes up! Now, it lumes about like the Chinese lume, glows for a bit and dies out in a few minutes, but as you said, a watch this age shouldn't glow much at all. So I'll run with that! I tried to get a pic of the watch lumed up, but it didn't work. If someone has a way to do lume shots I'll try it again. I'm guesstimating I have less than $100 into the watch, considering that I used a number of parts that I had laying around. The decal paper and sealer was under $6, and I don't even know where I got the movement. As I said, I am re-doing the dial and the insert on my black 6542. The insert will need to be perfect on that one. You posted a pic of a gen 6542 that I just have to try to emulate. I believe I am very close to getting that insert spot on. I have the 'blend-in' method, now to get the decal to sit right. I'll post that when it's done. Thank you freddy. I would have never been able to do any of it without your work and your help.

Last month Jee at Silix said he had none, the factory had none, and he'd let me know when he could get them. No word yet.

Most of us have seen freddy333’s stunning Rolex 6542s. And most know the story behind the Rolex GMT as a project with Pan American Airways. Juan Trippe, founder and head of Pan Am wanted a watch that would help the air-crews overcome jet-lag in the new jet-age. The result was the birth of the Rolex 6542. Then the story goes that Trippe noticed a 6542 on an executive's wrist, and demanded the watch go to the crews as he had directed. The executive argued that they made the company more money that the jet-jocks did, and deserved a Rolex too. So Trippe had Rolex make the white dial for the execs. I got to thinking about that, and it didn't make sense. JuanTrippe was a Naval Aviator in his own right, a hands on guy, a mover and shaker that was well educated and a pioneer who helped build the commercial aviation industry. Would he even be in the ‘Executive Suite' much at all? And if he was, would he notice someone's watch? I don't think so. I think someone told the boss. Yep, I thought to myself, there had to be an informer ! A snitch, a canary, a deep throat, a fink, an informant, anarc, a rat, a squealer, a stool pigeon, a stoolie, a tattler, tattletale weasel, whistle-blower. So, I thought it through and narrowed, and deduced, and realized it could only be one. The one who received the packages from Rolex, the one who delivered them, the one who was short a few Rolex watches when some went mysteriously missing. The one? Who else? Melivin from the mail room. Via today's advanced technology, using the internet, google and ZabaSearch, I tracked Melvin down living alone in a retirement community on the West coast just down the street from AllergyDoc, and he confirmed my theory. And he told me the rest of the story… When Melvin told Mr. Trippe (he ALWAYS called him Mr.Trippe!), Juan didn't get upset at all. He smiled and said ‘Thanks Melvin’,picked up the phone and called Rolex. They suggested the white dial and he approved it on the spot. Within a few weeks Melvin was delivering white dial Rolex GMT’s to the executives. ‘But what did Trippe do for you, Melvin?’ I asked. “Mr. Trippe gave me a watch too!” I looked at it, but something was fishy. Trippe wasn't known to be extravagant. More research, one web site after another, and I found it. Mr. Juan Trippe was no fool. He wasn't about to give Melvin the Mail room guy the same watch as his execs, and surely not a genuine Rolex. So, Juan had his house-boy, an illegal that had stowed away on the Pan Am Clipper and master watch maker back home in Tai Pei , build a replica of the Rolex 6542 white dial watch. Fuk Yuen built the watch using nothing but household materials, and in a private ceremony in the back of the mail room, Mr. Trippe presented it to Melvin. I talked Melvin into selling me the watch. The economy has been tough on him, he doesn't eat very regularly, usually Nine lives cat food, so I bought him a quarter-pounder and really low-balled the old coot. It's old, but in pretty good shape for it's age. Here's my new Pan-Am mail-room watch!

I'm no machinist, and am not familiar with the 'center drill', but that too makes good sense to me. The split point bit didn't 'walk' for me, and Freddy's method of shortening up the bit makes sense as well. I think, as is my experience in most things, practice with whatever method will make for a successful job. I knew those $25 knock-offs would have a good use someday...

In my opinion, your impressions are correct, if not more so.

Well, that's likely why the price is so cheap! You get what you pay for! Thank you.

It depends on if they used blue and red paint or actually cast it in ceramic. I tried to paint a black ceramic insert using red and blue ceramic paint and it looked terrible. But the ceramic paint did come right off using acetone (nail polish remover).

I use McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr .com. I have one of their locations 2 miles away so I pick up at will call, but they do ship. They have locations in Atlanta, Chicago (Elmhurst Il.), Cleveland, Los Angeles, and New Jersey. Their prices are very reasonable, and they have many tools and supplies we use for our hobby. I paid $2.16 ea for the 1mm cobalt bit, and $2.22 ea. for the 1.3mm cobalt. Their service is very good, and they guarantee and take returns.

Davidsen has the 7mm Brevet at a very reasonable price. It looks good to me, but you guys know more than I do. I'm hoping he can get the 6mm Rolex + crown. Anyone know how accurate it is?

I'm looking for one also. I'd consider a Chinese rep if they made it.

Using oil is very important. It cools the bit and lubes the cut. If you start to see smoke stop and use more oil.

We discussed this not too long ago. Drilling Lug Holes in non Drilled Cases Many good suggestions. I used 'split point bits' after experiencing problems. I haven't tried Freddy's method of using a normal point with only enough of the bit beyond the chuck to drill through, but that makes sense to me.

I think Freddy is right about this 6542. Jee told me the same thing, but that he will let me know when the case becomes available again.

Clark's has no listing for the Tropic 16, does list the Tropic 17 but doesn't carry either one. Gary does have the Tropic 19 and it's a beauty.