alligoat

Interesting! So a 5512 is a different case, w/ a shallower rehaut? Would that mean a 1560/1570 movt is slightly thicker than a 1530/1520 movement?

I'm thinking what JoJo is saying is that the 5513 dial might be too big for the 5512 MBW case. A Yuki watch case might take the 5513 dial, but I don't know how a 2836-2 would work- you might have to go the full franken route w/ a Rolex 1520 movement.

Very nice SSD, BROM. I have one suggestion tho, please get a www.watchmaterial.com/ pearl for $10. That rep pearl is killing me.

You could check between the lugs at 12 o'clock. If it says ORIG POLEX DESIGN, it's an MBW case. But it might say ORIG ROLEX DESIGN like my Euromariner V3 which is the latest MBW case. There's a close relation between the latest MBW, the Euromariner and the WM9 cases. Do they all come from the same factory in Taiwan?? I don't know. BK would probably be the most likely person to know. The difference between 25.6mm and 26mm isn't much, but my first thought would be, is the movement a clone. Next step is to look at the gears and some of the other detailing. I ran across a clone that had a poorly shaped slot where you depressed the button to remove the stem- watchmaker said it was a clone. My nephew ended up buying an old 2836-2 to replace the clone on that watch.

All 2836-2's should be the same diameter- 25.6mm, as I recall. Now the outside rings vary to fit the cases that the movements are going into. But I would think you could fit your WM9v1 dial and movement back into your noob case fairly easily- this would give you an extra beater for when you're doing serious demolition work and you don't want to tear up your good sub! Or you save the eta for another day when you need a good movement, especially since they're becoming somewhat scarce.

ETA makes movements over in Malaysia/China, somewhere in the far east- they're not made in Switzerland, but they're still good movements- eta quality and serviceable. If you get one of those, you're good to go. All you can do is take a chance. But remember, ETA is no longer selling to every swinging dick out there, supposedly. Availability has been reduced. Older gen DJ dials w/ stick markers would have lume dots at the ends of the sticks on the outside. Now days, I'm not even sure if the gen dials have the lume dots at the end of the sticks- the hands still have the lume. Here's a stick dial DJ from WM9- I can't see lume dots on it. Maybe the gen dials don't have them either. If you're on a nite mission, don't wear your DJ, wear your superlumed sub! http://www.watchmaker9.tv/products/rolex_datejust_16220WGI.htm

I was never too keen about the WM9V1 dial with the flat 'S' in Submariner. Certainly the noobmariner dial looks very nice and is an improvement, IMO. I'd say you have a very nice looking sub at this point. This is what a good late model 16610 sub rep should look like- gen bezel insert, gen crown, shaved cg's, good eta movement, a great all around beater- you can't beat it (so to speak)! Wear it with pride and in good health, it's a fine looking rep, congrats.

I just checked out the Orient watches and the 21 jewel automatic movement looks OK. I would assume it's comparable to the Miyota 8215. As for the supposedly eta movement from Josh or Trusty, well, who can say. I'd figure these days there's about a 75% chance you're getting a clone. But I have a clone movement that's held up fine for 2-1/2 years. Maybe you'll get a swiss eta, but they're becoming scarcer and scarcer. Basically you take your chances. The Orient will be WR to 5 or 10 atm's- better than a rep. I couldn't find the Rolex D-D knock-off so I don't specifically know what the WR of the watch would be. I would bet you'd have better luck with the Orient, but the reps are more fun.

Beautiful job Freddy! Very interesting, a Yuki case and dial. Didn't realize he carried that model. And the fade to brown looks cool on the dial along with the matching lume on the hands and dial. Great work.

Other than going to Rolex directly, a watchmaker w/ a Rolex parts account is the only other thing I can think of. It's tough getting parts for new models because they haven't been out that long. They don't even need to be serviced yet and people haven't had a chance to tear them up.

I love that pearl on that bezel insert, Archimede- it looks just like the one that came on my '78 1680. But my insert kept popping off so I got another insert and put the old one on my WM 1680- probably not a good move, but I didn't want to glue the original insert to my gen bezel.

Great job T. As Freddy says, you did a good job on the movement and servicing. Seems like I picked up a decent 93150 clasp on the bay a while back for $150- but I quit keeping track of costs, lest my wife finds out! That lume on that dial and hands is very nice and altogether it's a great package- a like new 1680! Congrats

Black bezel, black dial- 6263 for me. But I also like the silver dial, silver bezel- but that would be another watch. Dial swaps are too involved!

Thanks for the warning. I've seen some of this guys auctions, but usually they've been overpriced, IMO. I'm with Pug, at around 3%, ebay fees aren't outrageous. And of course, that obviously gives the guy an oppurtunity to jerk you around. Adios to your money.

@ Neuuubeh, The only place I can think of where you could buy an ST-19 is from Alpha Watch- in the Paul Newman Daytona http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPHA-PAUL-NEWMAN-Hand-Winding-30-min-Chronograph-Watch_W0QQitemZ380129988300QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item5881834ecc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Oh, wait, check Cousinsuk.com- they sell it- #CH1901M thru CH1903M for 49.95 pounds. I bought a few crystals from them last year and they sent me a catalog- here in the US! Mighty nice of the old blokes!

Definitely the Seagull ST-19. Bi-compax movement with the 6 o'clock subdial mimicing the hour hand. It's not a bad looking watch, but the 6 o'clock subdial is kinda stupid, IMO. I'm surpirsed they didn't use a 7750.

Gold plate has held up well so far. BTW, I have the YM rep in full gold w/ the white dial and black markers. It's doing fine also. But when it comes to yard work, saltwater fishing or the gym, I stick with SS.

With only 2000 being printed, I would figure we're pretty much SOL.

If the safety clasp won't open, maybe a butter knife w/ some masking tape on it could be stuck in there to pry it open. You might have to bend the sides of the clasp out a little if it's too tight. The two little ends of the clasp itself might also have to be bent out a little.

It's not that common. I guess it's a variation of the one that's in the full gold YW w/ the gold surrounds and black onyx markers. But certainly the Rolesium is the most popular YM. Saw one a DeMesy's for $6K. I was going to get this Charles Hubert 3514-WW to wear as a beater- miyota 8215 movt, 100m WR, for a little over $100, it's a knock-off of the YM. But then I saw Trusty's 'newbie' and changed my mind. http://www.amazon.com/Charles-Hubert-Paris...25&sr=1-173 I did buy the Chas Hubert 3514 in full gold (plate) just to see how long the gold would hold up- same Miyota, lifetime guarantee??. I really like the Miyota and wish we could find it in reps.

Quite all right- I should have prefaced that those were RolexRalph's answers to my question.

Very nice group of watches, kruzer. Oldies but goodies.

I looked at Skeet and Urul, at that point the insert didn't bother me so much, but the dial should have said 'Swiss' in my mind, predating the T<25 era by 5 years or so, date wheel is another issue. But this was Ralph's response. Somewhat ambiguous, but I thought I'd share it w/ the rest of you.

Interesting idea. I just got the Trusty 'noob' special last month- a YM w/ the white dial, black onyx markers http://www.tt88time.com/index.php?main_pag...roducts_id=1714 Maybe I'll throw a brown croc strap on it and see what it looks like!

Very nice 1665. Nice pearl, crown and tube, drilled lugholes, trimmed crown guards... Were the dial and hands relumed or just aged? All in all, this is about as far as I think one should go with an MBW rep. BTW, I get a kick out of it when you guys converse in German. I know a little French, Italian, and Tex-Mex, but nicht Deutsch.