alligoat

hitecpro is from the United States- Cleveland, OH. He sells a lot of Rolex stuff, I've bought from him before. This dial and 1570 movt seem a little overpriced- and the movt looks kinda rough. As I recall, his name was Alex... can't remember his last name. You can buy a 1500 Date w/ a 1570 movement for $1000-1200 and a 1680 dial for $300-400 and you're off to building your own franken- get an NDTrading 1680 case for $1200.

That's a beauty, T. Where you guys come up with all of these great gen parts never fails to amaze me. Great job.

Pop out the SSD insert and file down the backside. Clean out the glue from the bezel and reglue and PRESS/CLAMP it till it dries in the bezel- at that point it should be recessed. Then install the WM pearl.

Congratulations, Marty. It's a beautiful watch and as Euno says, you're now a member of the DW V72 club. I just hope I can get there some day.

Here's a 7928 with a 390 movt- 'Swiss' dial, III64 on the inside of the caseback, and an early Rolex triplock crown- oops, make that twinlock... http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-TUDOR-SUBMARINER...%3A3%7C294%3A50 certainly looks more correct to me Edit: Oops, refinished dial- didn't read everything- a bit overpriced IMO. But parts of the watch do look better.

Looking thru my Cousins catalog and a few pages from Sternkreuz, I see nothing that is cross referenced to the T-39. At that point you're just measuring with calipers and taking a chance and praying. Not a whole lot of 1665's were built- it wasn't very popular in the late 60's and 70's. It's only been in the last ten years that it has achieved cult status. Some of that may be due to the MBW's, also. When genuine T-39's are going for over $100, the laws of supply and demand say they are fairly rare.

Rather than putting a new insert in, why now just install a better pearl in your SSD? You can buy one from www.watchmaterial.com for around $10- not sure what shipping would be. I did that on a friends SSD and it was pretty easy- just enlarge the hole slightly with an x-acto knife and glue the pearl in. Easier than taking out the insert and regluing a new one in.

2482 movement seems OK, CRS on the caseback- I've never seen that on a Tudor, only on the 6238 and Daytonas. And that crown sure looks terrible. The T<25 dial just means 1965 or after to me. But the frankens are getting so good these days, maybe even the experts can be fooled.

I would think Sternkreuz actually makes an acrylic crystal for the 1665- a generic T-39. G-S Supplies is another company making generic crystals up in NY state. BTW, have you tried the $60 Clark's superdome crystal? People have been very happy with it in the past.

Beautiful watches and one of my favorites. I just wish they made a good rep with a correct dial.

My favorite is the hologram with 116613. There is no model 116613 at this time. There will be maybe this year, but it will be the new case and ceramic bezel. Currently Rolex only has out the 116618 and 116619 out- a yellow gold and white gold- both with the blue dials and blue bezels at around $27K each. Then the case says 116610- oops! Obviously the seller is a rookie- and not a very bright one at that.

It's not even a good rep! The crown guards are atrocious

Beautiful watch, Laz. Congrats to you and Tribal for a great build.

Beautiful pics. Congrats on a great watch.

Bob's watchmaker is in Spring Branch, mine is over at the Jewelry Center at Sharpstown Mall. Indyberetta was talking about his watchmaker, but I didn't find out which part of town, etc. Indy lives up in the Spring area. Ziggy has kinda changed his approach these days- less servicing and more reluming and stuff like that. A few weeks ago he was explaining his revised servicing- you might read it in the general discussion area. Feel free to PM me if you want to go to Sharpstown, my watchmaker has serviced most of my gen Rolexes.

I'm with dluddy on this, but maybe you could try Chris @ Eurotimez and ask for a 1680 with the eta clone movement to keep the price down- maybe you could save $100.

Beautiful job Stephane! Another cool watch for your Rolex collection. My two bracelet charts say the 78360 with 580 endlinks is correct. The earlier 7836 w/ 580's (or 380's or 280's) is good and the earliest 7206/58 combo would have to date to the late 60's, I believe. Enjoy your new beauty.

First order of business is to pull your movement and dial from your DJ case. Then you need to measure the diameter of the rep dial with a set of calipers. If it's around 28mm, you may be able to fit a gen dial in there- but the date window of the gen dial has to line up with the rep datewheel. If it lines up, you're good to go. Remove the hands and rep dial. At that point you remove the dial feet on the gen dial and glue it to the top ring of the eta movement and then glue the top ring to the movement and install the hands and put it all back in the case. If the date wheel doesn't line up with the gen dial's window, you can buy an overlay from www.cubic-works.com/ and remove the old overlay and glue the new one on. The cubic works overlays fit gen Rolex dials. Now, if your rep dial is 29mm, you probably won't be able to fit a gen dial- I had this problem and ended up building a couple of frankenjusts with gen cases, dials and eta movements inside- it's a little more work and money, but it sure makes for a nice DJ. 16014 franken with 2836-2, silver dial, wg bezel and oyster bracelet

2813's are easy to find. They are the chinese movements usually used in the less expensive replicas which we see on this forum. You could donate and then you would have access to our dealers- that would make it easier for you to find watches w/ the 2813. As for the Miyota 8215, I just don't see it in the reps around here. It can be retro fitted to a watch- esp. one w/ a 2813, but you have to have some skills or a watchmaker to do it for you.

Wow! Thanks for the great comparison photos, b16a2. Those are just what we needed.

I think the watch looks very nice. Some aging would be nice, but everyday wear and tear will achieve that eventually. I disagree with Freddy about the crown guards- at least as far as the insides next to the crown. I think that part is fine. Now taking metal off the outside of the cg's helps, IMO. MBW cg's on the 1665 and 1680 are too fat, but thinning down the outsides is a lot of work- Pugwash did it on his 1680. It really helps, but it's a lot of work- not for the feint of heart. Working HE valves, personally, I wouldn't worry about it. This is a rep and who's really going to know. Were those 593 end pieces on your 93150? 585's are almost impossible to find and 580's are your best bet- but that could run $100-150. I think you're to the point of wearing it and let the aging begin. Congrats.

Very nice. I'm all for restoring older watches, it just makes them so much more enjoyable to look at and wear. Of course, on serious collectibles it is frowned on by the collectors willing to spend the big bucks. They want them in original condition. Maybe you could share with us where you had the restoration done.

That 2846 would go great in a 1680 or 1665- especially with that old style datewheel with the open 9 in 29. Definitely a new dial- salmon does nothing for me. Fixing the date mag is tough- either another crystal or a better cyclops have to be sourced. Not that easy to do. Maybe you find a better cyclops, heat the crystal- out of the watch of course- pop the cyclops, clean the crystal and glue the new one on with clear UV glue. It can be done, just not a beginners mod. Good luck.

I guess the unfortunate thing is that Narikaa was sold a fake MBW. But I sure don't know what you can do at this point, especially if your modder has already started working on it. Don't know if you got the watch back to Narikaa, if he could return it to the guy at MBK and get the money back or not. Reminds me of buying bad drugs- once the money's gone, it's gone. You ain't getting it back. Good luck, I hope you're able to work something out.