alligoat

It depends on the movement. If it doesn't advance clockwise, try counterclockwise. On some ETA's, one way changes the date and the other direction changes the day.

Go to watchmaterials, generic non-genuine Rolex parts bezels and pushers- scroll down to the bottom

Certainly Carl, putting a noob dial and datewheel in a TW Best case is an excellent way to go- makes for an excellent rep but the movements are different so it makes for a lot of work. It's fairly painless if you have an ETA noob- just swap it over. Bruce79, you've been my inspiration for the 16800! But I had so much trouble getting a TW Best case, the rep project is on hold. I finally bought this matte dial transitional 16800, one, as an investment, and two, cause the rep project was stalled. I'll try to post some pics in the next day or two. I did by the way receive a $99 sub from Paul today- case #D320840- I'm hoping it's a TW Best, even though I'll have to drill the lugholes. Will measure tonite.

I've done fine with Ofrei. Mostly bought tools. I get bezels form other sources, but I've read that the $10 illumines dots are ok for vintage Rolex inserts (315-5513-1). I always order on line so I never deal with Bob Ofrei who can be tempermental. And I'm in the US.

Picture 13 is interesting. It looks like the noob has the best shape to the lugs when I compare it to my gen 16800, which I happen to be wearing today. But the 16800 and 16610 cases are not the same- of course the rehaut on the 16610 is greater than the 16800. And I don't have a gen 16610 to compare with. Is your Swiss watch a TW Best/MBW? That would be my guess given the rehaut. If you have a gen 16610, a few shots would be good for comparison. I'm finding that size on the gens is just slightly different from the reps- my 16800 which I just got yesterday, just 'looks' bigger than my reps. Nice comparison. One things for certain, both watches could use a gen crown!

Iceberg1459, there are two components to rehaut. First is the depth of the metal ring as you say. Second is the frontal thickness at the crystal edge. Go back to post #12 in this discussion and you will see where ByTor is pointing out the frontal rehaut issue between the gen and the rep- much thicker in the gen. This is a new aspect of rehaut which has been looked at in the last 6 months or so- just one more way in which we are over analyzing these reps. Noob has good frontal rehaut, SSD (rep) doesn't.

Quite a few of the collectors sell the SSD. It is somewhat accurate, fairly accurate , if you will, but of course, not perfect. Crystal is a tad too tall, crown guards could be trimmed slghtly, but they are pretty good as is. Pearl might be a tad small. Some people have complained about the bracelet- some are fine, others not so great. All in all, it is really a pretty good rep IMO. People have also dove and swam with them, so they are fairly WR. This watch is the samew size as the noobmariner, 40mm, but a little thicker- 1 or 2mm more. My nephew has one and is happy with it. I don't own one because I have too many subs- noobs, etc.

Try an Ofrei.com acrylic pearl for $10- maybe it will fit. A gen Rolex 315-5513-1 bezel insert would be cool, but they are hard to come by for most of us.

I don't have a problem with the bracelet myself. Like Kelster, I agree that the USA Rolex bracelets (actually any Rolex bracelet from the 50's, 60's and 70's) can be pretty flimsy. I'd figure this case etc., as mid 70's- after they stopped engraving a date on the inside of the caseback.

Interesting stuff, Jimmy. The clones are coming, the clones are coming! But maybe with a servicing, they will be a good alternative to the ETA's- and of course, I'm convinced that the surplus ETA's could use a servicing also.

I'm with Kelster, it's a 1601 case, 36mm, 20mm ends and a black pie-pan dial. I don't think a Datejust dial will fit in a 1500 series case, but I'm not 100% on that. Also don't know what ETA movement will fit in there, 2824, 2836, or 2892. Putting a 1570(5) Rolex movement in there wouldn't be cost effective IMO. You can buy those watches for $1250-1500 in tact.

The part # for the insert for the DRSD is 315-5513-1. Watchmaterial is a good place to start, but the pearl may not be correct. The correct pearl for the DRSD is the acrylic pearl- no metal surround. Go to Ofrei- www.ofrei.com/ and check out the illumines dots for $10. Hopefully that would fit in your insert w/ a little glue. Others around here have had good results with these little dots. Look under generic Rolex parts, pushers and bezel rings- at the bottom.

Nice review chrgod. That Speedmaster rep looks nice. Like the vintage Daytonas with the ST-19, immobilizing the six o'clock subdial hand would be a cool mod. One tell on the Dubois-Depraz is that the sixty second counter is always at the three o'clock position- at least all of the ones that I've seen.

I got the River noob w/ the eta clone about a year ago and it's worked fine. I paid $99. Put a gen crown, aftermarket tube, a better pearl and trimmed the cg's. It's a great beater, and is WR to boot. Like jimmythree says though, if you need a part for it, you're pretty much SOL. But my watchmaker has serviced a couple of chinese movts for me, no reason he couldn't service this one if it needed it- you just take your chances. I'd probably buy a clone over an asian movt if it was only $25-30 more. True ETA's typically add $100 to the price.

Rolex wouldn't put an LV insert on a black sub. But if you had a black gen sub, there is nothing to stop you from putting a green LV insert on your sub- but it would be an aftermarket one. It pretty much comes down to what your own preference is. If you want it, go for it.

This week I shelled out $4200 for a matte dial 16800. But I'm still thinking about building a rep of the same watch- just trying to tie down a case- will probably have to drill the lug holes on a TW Best to get one. I enjoy the gens, but as you say, you can only wear them. With the modded reps, there is always the satisfaction of knowing that you built it, and for a whole lot less than the gen. I do find my collecting starting to slow down- or a least my building projects are slowing and I only have a couple of more watches to build. I don't get in a hurry these days, it's more like when I get around to it, oh well. But I still appreciate the creativity that I see around here, enjoy seeing what people are putting together- rep, franken and even gen.

They all look like the same watch. But bear in mind that what they call a 7750 is really an asian Valjoux 7751 movt. That is a triple date with 24 hr dial at 9, and the standard chrono features. This is a more complicated movement than the 7750. On top of that, it is asian, so keep in mind QC and build conditions- i.e., it very possibly could need a servicing in the not too distant future- not properly oiled and dirty. That being said, they are beautiful watches. You just need to figure a servicing in there at $200-250. But it's still a better deal at $500-600 than a gen at $3-4K. TTK said you could find them used (gen) for $1500, but I ain't seen that.

WOW! That is a bargain for a 7750, and 200m WR to boot. Makes for a great beater, and looks good to boot.

Trusty's will have the white lettering and the yellow markers, but not a great dial. Like freddy said, check with Eurotimez and see if he can get you an MBK w/ a dial with white print and fairly white markers. Pred's been there and so have I, this ain't an easy task. I ended up putting a 5513 dial in my 5513 case- white print and yellow markers- it's OK, but it was a compromise. I spent $150 on the 'refinished' dial, but I keep hoping the yellow markers will fade to white or off-white.

Interesting, i didn't know that.

MBK should be white print and fairly white markers (lume). Tough to find otherwise.

That band isn't correct for a Submariner. The center links are polished and the Rolex crown is on the flip lock and not on the clasp as it should be for a Sub. That bracelet is more appropriate for a Daytona.

I just took a 1520 movt out of a 5500 Air King- circa 1972-3. The watches with the 1570 movt. will say "Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified" on the dial since the 1570 is chronometer rated and the 1520 isn't.

Paul's as good a place as any to start. Sometimes his service is good, sometimes so-so. But he has always treated me right. Both watches are fine, the so called perfect sub is the noobmariner with the eta movement. I've owned four of this watch in various versions, so I guess I like it. The older Explorer is good also- probably a watch that is less likely to be questioned- more low key, less known. Other dealers carry the same watches, Josh and Andrew come to mind. Keep in mind that a rep is always a rep, as they say- it ain't perfect. But if you stick around, you can learn a helluva lot and build and mod some watches that are definitely first rate.

I like the way the minute marks project thru the edge of the crystal and are lengthened. 16233 is a TT DJ, but what I like better is when you see the sticker on the back- 116610. It's interesting how the Chinese have come out with the new model before Rolex even has. And some idiots like to argue w/ you about a Sub being real when it has the 116610 sticker on the back- duh!