alligoat

When the 16610 came out in 1988 it had a tritium dial- 'Swiss- T<25' with the white gold hour marker surrounds, drilled lugholes and a 93150 bracelet with 501B end pieces. First SN was an Rxxx,xxx. Tritium dials went away in 1998-9, replaced by 'Swiss' first and a year later by 'Swiss Made' SEL bracelets came out shortly thereafter Lugholes in the case went away around 2003-4.

Not me. The white gold surrounds came out maybe around 1984 and I would figure that's what the service dial for a 5513 is at this point.

I use the #55 cobalt drill bit from Snap-On Tools. Like Praetor says, this ain't off the shelf stuff.

The 93150/593 is gen- well worn and it came off another gen 16800 where I installed an MBW 93150 w/ 593 ends.The datewheel is older with the open 6's and 9's- hard to find these days although jmb might be making them.As has been mentioned, noob crystal is not gen spec and neither is the bezel assembly. Fitting a gen insert in there requires filing the insert OD down to a smaller diameter- i.e. you're wasting it. BK's old trick of a jewelryoutlet555 insert with a WM pearl would give you the correct older 4 in 40 on the insert- the noob insert has the modern 4, c. 2004 or so.

I'm all for reluming these vintage reps, it makes them more fun!

The watch on the left is a gen 16800 and the one on the right is a gen relumed dial in a noob case with lugholes Bracelet is a 93150 w/ 593 ends, insert is a noob insert with a WM pearl. It's been a good rep, it's WR and good for swimming. My next project is to put the movement and dial in a Star Time case- to be continued...

Hi B! In your case, I would think of it as a lateral move. Did you ever check your Euro for WR? If it is, you're pretty much there already. The biggest deal is the crystal retention ring on these reps- if it's tight, the crystal usually doesn't leak.

Rolex could give a rat's a$$ about the date mag! So don't get too hung up on it. If the gen 2.7 gasket didn't work, you problem is in the aftermarket crystal retention ring- it ain't a gen part so don't fret about it too much. Don't forget rule no.1- a rep is always a rep!

Typical Josh case, trim the inside edges of the cg's and put a smaller crown on there. Are the hands on your SD blue? Lume looks better on the 5513

The Zigmeister did a tutorial of sorts on making a stem a while back so you know he can do it. He also used to refer to the MM as possibly an early Venus, like a Venus 150 But trying DW would also be worth it, I would think

Looks good! I finally got around to drilling the lugholes on my MBW red sub this weekend! After 6 years no less and put a gasket under the crystal retention ring- the 25-325 gasket fit perfectly and I even put silicone on it.

Here's a beautiful 6240 over on VRF that you might enjoy http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1339109121/My+heart+just+skipped+a+beat...++here

Typically it's a little gold colored metal-like sticky that says Rolex on it- it sticks to the eta rotor. I've pulled most of mine off and threw them out!

It would help if you could post a link to the raffles-time bracelet. Correct bracelets for the 5513 are: early- 7206 middle- 9315 w/ 280 or 380 ends late- 93150 w/ 580 ends Here's Yuki's 7206- http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/7752471.htm This 93250 bracelet isn't technically correct, but it's cheaper and probably will work http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/7909371.htm PT and Andrew may also sell Submariner bracelets- might check them out also

When you're dealing with the Josh 1680, the datewheel overlay is the least of your challenges! What are you going to do with those stubby crown guards and that oversized crown? First order of business is to straighten up the inside edges of the cg's and find a smaller crown. After that, some aging of the case, crystal and dial/hands would be in order, IMO.

As LHOOQ stated, not all V72 movements are the same and some won't fit in the early Daytona cases. I ran into this with a 50s Heuer- the one on the left in this pic The case is 38 mm and the plates of the movement are too large for it to fit in a 6239 case. I've heard of this on one other occasion so you do have to be careful.

I think the 77/78 era was a 702 crown and tube. Page 157 in "Rolex Daytona-a legend is born" refers to a 701 triplock crown in 1972 and by 1977 it refers to a 702 crown. Around 1982 a 703 is used. Prior to 1972 would have been the 700 twinlock. This is all on pages 156-159 of the book.

I was very pleased with PB's work on my matte dial SD I agree with Valty, specify 'flat'.

Looking good DJ! I'm liking that Sea Dweller!

Let's get one thing straight first- you can't see the LEC on a gen crystal with the naked eye- except under the rarest of circumstances. So the other 99.99% of the time, you'll never know it's there. The LEC crystal came out in the early 2000's, before the rehaut engraving. I'd personally get a rep w/o the LEC, but most of them have it these days. and yes, it all too often is noticeable. You might be able to swap out the crystal, but you won't know til you get the watch and measure the crystal.

i've never had to drill a cartel sub, so like Nick says, you should be able to just run the tap thru there and be good to go. Some of the old MBW's on the other hand had a hole too small to just run the tap thru- I busted a tap in one. The correct size if you're drilling the hole is 2.65mm which is an oddball size BTW! JMB would be the guy to do this work for you if you don't want to do it yourself. It's not that hard, and if you look around, maybe you can find the tap for $10 instead of the $30 or more that Ofrei and Borel charge.

If you could pick up the 9315 clasp and it would fit on the 7836, you'd have it made.

Here's what Rolexaddict and others are using for the bezel assembly http://www.ebay.com/itm/RETAINING-RING-BEZEL-INSERT-FOR-ROLEX-OLD-GMT-BLUE-1675-/170838595332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c6c61704 Maybe you get the one with the Pepsi insert, instead of the blue insert, but the seller is still wholesaleoutlet990.

Yes, we're pretty sure there are 9315s from China, but the rate of distribution has been very slow and they're typically sold as gen in the $400 range. I know I'd love to see them repped and in the $75-100 range!

Here you go M, straight from RWI! http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/not-so-easy-103880.html Like Sneed says, filing the bottom is one approach, and this discussion will also help. It's the typical deal- chinese aftermarket parts don't always fit like they should!