alligoat

Beautiful build and I agree with Curt, $1300 for the 3135 is a great deal. All in all, it's a beautiful job, now what about a pic with the bracelet on?

Have we even decided a Yuki case is feasible for a 1680 build? I know people have had problems w/ other Yuki cases. I agree w/ WW and you really won't find a decent red sub dial for cheap, which would be under $1000. A decent red sub dial, expect to pay $2000-4000. So yes, Ingod might be a good compromise. I also agree with highoey's figures, although the low side on a white sub build could be $3000 with some judicious purchases. You left off hands, a good tritium set could easily run $300 these days, same for a fat font insert, date disc is another consideration- another $150+. Gen 1680 white subs still show up on VRF in the $4500-5000 range. Seems like I saw a 3.7 million one w/ a white dial in that range recently- you could then maybe find a red dial and have a red sub for $7k if you got lucky, but it's still a put together watch. Red subs run $8.5K and up these days.

That 7836 bracelet doesn't look too bad now that you've cleaned it up. Seems like those ss end pieces were standard operating procedure- sop- in the old days. A service would be good and then you should be good to go. Plus the new crystal, of course and maybe a light polish as Freddy said.

The 6 and 7mm tubes use the 3.0mm x .35 tap. The 5mm tubes use the 2.5mm x .25 tap, as i recall.

Hollow mid links is correct, but it seems like one of the recent models- maybe the latest DJ- had solid mid links, or was it the YachtMaster.... That's why everyone loved the noobmariner 5 years ago- the bracelet had the correct hollow mid-links!

Whenever you install a gen tube, there's a minimum list of things to do. 1. Remove the old tube- I use the rat tail file, but an ease-out will also work 2. Tap the hole with the 3.0mm x .35 tap- run it all the way thru 3. You may or may not need to countersink the case hole- using a larger drill bit- this allows you to seat the case tube so that the crown will screw down correctly. 4. If you do countersink, retap the hole afterwards to make sure it's clean 5. Install the tube with some blue loc-tite. i would assume you are then installing a gen crown.

Here's one of the variations which I had at one time Ephry The V72 is on the left, cartel on the right. I guess I could get jmb to trim the V72 bezel down a little on the OD- make it look thinner, more like the cartel in that respect.

Maybe you could give me a link to that bezel, E! Here's my 6238/9 next to my 6239 Albino

Here's a gen 6234 dial Rolex crown emblem at 12, not the number. Certainly the second dial is a new fabrication, don't know about the first one, although it does have some age to it. But the price isn't bad for a rep dial, either way. Case for a 6234 would come from Phong at jewelry and watch, around $1500. The case curlflash has pictured has a V71 movement in it which is larger than a V72- 14 ligne vs 13 ligne, so it wouldn't work.

Early 16610 subs had the 93150 bracelet with 501 B end links. This would be the R serial from 1987-8 thru the A serial- 1998 or so. Then there was the period with SELs and the case still had lugholes- til 2004 or so. The 16610 T case w/o lugholes came out at that time. Finding a 93150 can still be done- the early PT SDs had a decent 93150, but the crown on the clasp was a little lacking. 501 B ends have not been repped AFAIK. People swap in gen clasps fairly regularly- this helps with the bad crown emblem on the clasp. VRM would be the place to find 501B ends, or fleabay. Patience is the key

I realize this is a 6542, but I love the strap It would look good on your cornino

I don't know why the 1570 is so hard to read sometimes, but I've seen them like that before. I would think this is an early movement based on the SN and it's out of a DJ- notice the sloped top edge on the dial side. The seller is reputable.

I think $2K is a fair price since we can't figure out the case, but it certainly works well with that movement. If it's WR, maybe a little more.

Well, I'm home and I looked at my MBW case and JAG's case is looking a lot better. The MBW has a SN of A845633, same Orig Rolex Design at 12 o'clock, but the case back gives it away- Monarch Polfy S.A., Gelena Shitinerand, Stainless Steel 16610. The other tell is the crown position- it's low on the MBW. JAG's watch has a high crown position. Does Rolex make a replacement case for the 16800? If this case has a shallow rehaut, then I can't help but wonder if they do. Or maybe it's like Tribal fitting a 2824-2 movement into a WM9 V2 case, maybe a 3035 will fit in a 16610 case- who knows... I like the crown position on the case and the sharp bezel teeth, and the CG's look fine to me.

The value is in the movement and the dial, and $100 for the insert. Movement and dial, maybe $1750-2000. Old style crown probably came with the movement

Yeh, if you can fit a 3035 in there, it's probably a rep case

I've got the A serial MBW (Euromariner) with drilled lugholes, I can check it tonight. It sure looks alot like the case you have there. A later Sub dial will fit the 3035 just fine and of course, you've got the old style DW w/ the open 9 in 29. My rep 93150 bracelet with the gen 501B ends fits my MBW case perfectly- I did drill the lugholes, of course.

Wow, you've been busy lately Chi! Nice job.

The dial that LH shows also has the small font 'Rolex Oyster Cosmograph', whereas the later Olivier dial has the larger font ROC.

Here's a scenario WM9 V1.5 case from Precious Time- $375-400, sell off the dial and movement JMB to drill lugholes, $50, Omega can do this also 16800 matte dial from Yuki $178 Relume by PBdad- $100 Hands by Clark- $20 Gen crown and aftermarket tube- $100 93150 Bracelet and 593 end pieces- $200-500 This could run you as little as $1000 plus the cost of the movement- maybe $1500 for the movement- so around $2500 possibly

Darn Chi, now it's a work of art- those vintage gold hands are bee-u-tee-full! Congrats!

Welcome aboard. I'd think the best order of business is to spend maybe a week reading around here and then maybe decide on one watch to build and focus on that one build. You appear to be way too excited and scattered to build a rolexomegabreitling right now, if it can even be done.

If it has a pie pan dial it's a 1601 DJ (1603) and if the dial is flat it would be a 16030/3035 quickset.

With a 3035 movement, I'd think it would be fairly easy to build a matte dial 16800. I'd use my Euromariner case with lugholes, but you could also drill lugholes in a WM9 case, or a TW Best case. These all have gen-like bezel assemblies which are nice. 4-5 years ago I built a 16800 w/ a noobmariner case- it's been a great WR beater, but alas, the 2834-2 eta needs to be serviced. Noobmariner on the right

I think so and also Explorer I