alligoat

You're right, Serafino, the 2846-2 would be a good movement for a 160xx case. Thanks for reminding me about the MKII 5500- I haven't wore that watch in a while. It's a shame Bill Yao doesn't sell those dials anymore, I sure like the way it turned out in that Silix 6694 case, and with an old swiss eta to boot! Lume on that dial and hands is great!

i've seen old watches with the 'Registered Design' on the bottom, same w/ 'stainless steel'. It's the same old vintage rolex story- there were no rules because nobody cared. You could even leave off 'Registered Design' and 'Stainless Steel'. In this case, whatever you do is OK, there are no rules!

If you have a 160xx case, you need a 2836. A 2824 will work in a 1600 case or a 16200 case. I am very happy with my 1016 w/ a 2824 in a 1601 case. I like to think of it as an upgraded movement! Crown on the old ones is either 600 or 602- when they throw out the 17 or 16 parts BS, it sounds like that guy jewelerstools- I don't think he really knows what he's talking about.

I read the part from the Italian forum that was in English just now. Similar watches are published in "Rolex, Collecting Wristwatches", by Osvaldo Patrizzi, Guido Mon-dani Editore, Genova 2001, pp. 258-260, 264 and 385. If you could find this book, it might help As for the engraving, what about ORIG ROLEX DESIGN and 6611 below- since it may not be a registered design. Engraving at 6 o'clock could be Stainless Steel and a SN below. On the inside of the case back, I'd just do the something simple like they have pictured on the Italian forum. No one's going to have a clue anyway! Patrizzi and Mondani would be the experts to talk to!

Mine is 3838448, indicating early 70's. At 12 o'clock is says Registered Design, 1655 and at 6 it's Stainless Steel w/ the SN below.

You're talking about as 40 year old movement, so the FIRST thing you need to do is get it serviced. My educated guess is your PR should be 40-45+ hours and it should take 40-50 turns to fully wind it. Although the watch may be keeping somewhat accurate time it undoubtably suffers from low amplitude, a sign of being in need of servicing. In the CONUS, that runs $200-300 from a decent watchmaker. If you're in the third world it will be less!

Has the dial been relumed? Shame he couldn't get it up and running, but I'm sure, like you say, he wouldn't have a clue who Bob Ridley is. With 9 days to go, I'm sure there will be a lot of people offering him advice.

I don't think a 1556 is right for a 6611. I think it should be a 1055. I don't know if Antiquorum screwed up or if the watch is a one-off piece. The price is pretty high and Day-Dates rarely came in SS. A quick look thru Bing showed most 6611s to have a 1055 or 1055B movement- the B being later and improved. I did see one other 6611 w/ a 1555 in it. So maybe right at the end before the 1803 came out, they started to use a few 1555s or 1556s. Or they were installed during a service...

Flat top 3s are from the 1500 series of movements- 1520, 1570, 1560, but even those have later replacements that run the gamut- first round top 3s and open 6/9s and finally round top3s and closed 6/9s- Rolex just doesn't care!

Round top 3 and open 6/9 are correct for the 16013/4 and other 3035's. But one of my 16800s came with a service DW and it was small font and closed 6/9s. I managed to get a NOS DW with the open 6/9s and it's much larger fonts. Looks 100% better under the cyclops. I guess rolex could give a rat's a$$. Where to find an old style DW these days, I don't know. My second Frankenjust came w/ a DWO with closed 6/9s and I just left it on there- who's gonna know! My 16014 had the old cubic works DW w/ the open 6/9s but those are long gone. JMB might be your best shot, he's made some DWOs lately, I believe.

$3300 is a steal J! You can always replace a bezel.

The watch looks ok to me. Yes the bezel is a little unusual, but my 16800 ss is also somewhat like yours. Mine also has the service dial, Swiss- T<25 and luminova, glows at nite beautifully. The polish on the lugs is typical for RSC on a 30 yr old watch. If you like blue TTs, and the price is right, $5K or less, it's a good deal.

Well you ought to show us what you found, because I would have said no. All I've ever seen is is round top 3s and open 6s and 9s. Later DWs would even have closed 6s and 9s- Rolex doesn't care.

A Dubois-Depraz module would go on a 2824-2, it would be redundant to put it on a 7750 which is already a chronograph movt. The D-D module has running seconds at three, not at 9 like the 7750/7753s. Since it sits on top of the 2824, pusher locations are above the stem/crown axis. Gevril did the Paul Newman Daytona homage piece with the D-D module a number of years ago- big tell was the running seconds at 3! $300 for a 7753 is somewhat tempting.

Looking good woof, now go scratch it up!

Definitely a mixed bag, but I do like his 24-7030 case tubes for subs. But he is a crusty fart and not always easy to deal with. Takes stuff back, but doesn't refund s&h charges. Buyer beware!

Yes, the 'frog' dial is certainly a good possibility. It's called 'frog' because the Rolex crown on the dial looks like a frog's foot- center spike is slightly longer. Earlier gilt dials are also a good candidate

Welcome aboard! You've come to the right place and there's a boat load of reading for you to do, so don't go out and get scammed by replicagod! You'll pay way too much and who knows what you'll get, if anything. You might also join up and that way you'll get access to the approved dealers here.

Yep, it looks good and he's a legitimate seller over in HK.

I would think you could if you swapped out the 2836 for a 2824 movement.

Very nice Pete! That red dial sure looks great. BTW, end links for a 1680 should be 580's, not 501B's which go on a 16610.

I have no idea- it's a kind of a hit or miss proposition, but I'd say probably not. Want a sapphire crystal, stick w/ a 16610 sub, or a 14060, maybe a 16600 SD.

You can countersink the hole with a drill bit- i.e. chamfer the hole, so the case tube will sit deeper in the case. To turn the tap, there's a wrench that comes with a set of taps, just use that http://www.best-price.com/product/21914-economy-tap-and-reamer-wrench-0-through-1-2-inch-taps/765321858/1/

None! Dial for a 16610/16800 is 27.3mm. Rep dials are typically a little bigger. 1680 dials are 26.5mm but they have a plastic crystal.

The crystal came from www.ofrei.com here in the US. But it looks like your case isn't a SSD V2 with the M832118 SN, although it could be- I've seen where the noob factory is varying their serial numbers. You can pop the crystal out and measure it with a set of calipers- if it's 29.5mm, the crystal mod will work.