preacher62

Did you have a problem with the Trusted Dealers here? They all sell DJs and very good ones too. If you want a better one you might consider a building project. These are all Rolex except the movement and bracelets.

+1 When the stem is out there is nothing to hold the castle wheel up under the yoke and it falls down. When you try to insert the stem it just jams. If everything is well the stem should insert fairly easily.

Or Josh at Perfect Clones. He sells the 1655 rep with that second hand. Worth a shot. He might source you one.

Thanks for that JoeyB. With all the talk of realism (and I am obsessive, as well) I have never had anyone ask me if a watch is real, to take off my watch, does it hack, is it quick-set, what is the BPH, does it have a Rolex movement, is that a gen insert, where did you get that ugly pearl, or any such thing. I don't think 99% of the people pay any attention to the watch that I am wearing. Watches are my hobby, but we shouldn't think that they are everyone else's passion also. Most probably would think we are silly for doing what we do.

Don't bypass the TC Submariner. It is the best going right now. $600. I think. A bit more than you are budgeting, but worth it.

If you enter 93150 in the search area of this and other forums you will be able to read articles all day Saturday and Sunday on this question.

The best sub that money can buy comes from Geneva, Switzerland. It looks really authentic.

Thanks RA! I am experimenting with building a "poor man's" 1655. Actually, there is no such thing, since, as you have pointed out, there is not good OTB rep. I purchased an M1 bezel from Ingod44 and it measured 37mm (36.92mm), much smaller than the rep bezel. I found a history of the Explorer II and it indicated (with ambiguity) that it was introduced with a 38mm case. Maybe I didn't do enough research. This add states that the case is 38mm and there is another watch on eBay that says it is 38mm. http://robertmaron.com/product.php?productid=18027 I used Josh's 1655 and radically modified the case. I put an orange Rafflestime GMT hand and a gen crown and tube. The dial has some incorrect spacing but other than that is not bad.

Was the reference 1655 issued with a 38mm case and was the 1655 always a 38mm case or did it grow...as a 1655 to 40mm? Thanks!

If we were collaborating on a design for a new watch, I would probably opt for the inverted colors on the date wheel. However, if it a question of the "perfect sub" then traditional is the way to go. The sub is iconic and you can't mess with iconic. If you do...it's not.

You can engrave the plates till your heart is content, but the ETA/clone will never look like a Rolex 3135.

The date is in the standard DG or ETA position...not Rolex. And the font looks like a standard DG date font. But hey...we're WISs.

The DG 3804B goes anywhere the ETA 2836 will go. Same stem height. I've been a dyed in the wool ETA nut, but I recently bought one of Josh's 1655 to mod and it came with a 3804. I have been running about one month and it has been solid. I know that is not very long, but I have not had good luck with the 2813s. I intend to run this one and see how it works. I have a hammer, so I can fix it, at least, as well as JoeyB can.

Thanks for the info. It makes me happy to hear that.

I made a mistake. I was pushing the crystal through the bezel off the watch. When I placed the crystal on the watch case the bezel pressed down perfectly. I guess thee case expands the crystal just a little. Here is the case. It is unsanded, unpolished...generally unfinished. I think that all the cutting is over. I cut down both side and the "saddle" on either side of the CGs. The biggest problem is that it starts out as a 40mm case with a dial of 27.5mm. The Ingod44 dial is 26.5mm. Problem...I think. I purchased the white dial with the watch and I am pretty happy with it. The spacing in "Oyster Perpetual Date" is wrong, but there just aren't that many of this reference in the wild. There's not going to be anyone around me to compare it. Anyway, when asked, I always start by saying, "Well, I have a really strange hobby..." I don't try to pass them off as gen. My datejusts are all gen but the movement and hands, but when someone asks me if it's real, I say, "Mostly," and then explain. By the Way... This is the gen model that I was using. I have found at least three and maybe more, case styles for the 1655. I'd like to find a straight, white second hand like this one.

Guys, I am trying to make a believable 1655 out of Josh's cartel base. I have extensively modified the case and it is looking hhmmmm...fairly believable. I am beginning to feel everyone's frustration of building a 1655. My current problem is that I have purchased the Ingod44 Mk 1 bezel and am using a Clark 25-116 crystal. The crystal just pushes through he bezel with no effort. The crystal fits the case perfectly. Has anyone else encountered this problem and what is a reasonable fix. Is there a crystal with thicker side walls that might work. We're talk about fraction of a mm here. Thanks!

Just wondering...has anyone in CONUS seen these as yet? I'm still waiting patiently. My 1675 is apart in the drawer awaiting a new DWO. It is screaming at me for wrist time.

Any glass can break up the light, especially if it has angles at the 45, and the light hits it just right. You don't need to get a gen crystal for that. I don't think that even Rolex governs rainbows...LOL.

The pin on a 3804 is not part of the set lever like on other movements. The pin is a press fit into the main plate. The set lever has a drilling in it that just sets down over the pin. The pin doesn't appear to move. I have pushed on the pin with some degree of force and it does not move. I have two 3804 B's and both are made this way. Just a note...this is not made like 2813 or an ETA. The 2813 comes right out just like an ETA. Still need help.

Yes, I've already done that. It's a real balancing act. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

What is the proper way to remove the stem on the above mentioned movement? I have two of them and they have an opening below the pin on which the set lever rides, but nothing there appears to cause the stem to release. Unlike the ETA movements where pin is part of the set lever and it extend through the plate, the 3804 has a pin staked in the plate and the set liver rides on the pin. Also...if anyone knows of an exploded schematic of this movement I would pay money for it. I will appreciate the help...and thanks!

It's what I'm wearing this week. I have a nice riveted bracelet. Most comfortable watch I own. Great looking piece! Let's start a club.

Love that long, thin flat case. You can't rep that.

When I took off the keyless bridge, it was, apparently, stuck to the back of the bridge, but I can't find anyplace for it. Without it the bridge contacts the castle wheel and does not let it go all the way into set mode. I may have to improvise.