preacher62

Does anyone know how to contact Josh? Has he surfaced since the last shutdown or does he have another site?

Very nice watches, gents!

Love those DDs!

I built these two DJs a couple of years ago. One is a 16013 in an engraved, gen 16013 case and the other is a 16014 in an engraved, gen 16014 case, both with gen linen dials and both have Swiss made, ETA 2836s on board. I was never really happy with them as they did not have proper DWOs. I contacted MMM to see what he had to offer and he furnished me with these two DWOs that are very near gen looking. One is white and the other champagne. They have open 6s and 9s and round topped 3s. The best part is that they are perfectly centered both horizontally and vertically on all dates. If you have built a 1601 or a 16000 with an ETA movement, you need to contact MyManMatt for one of these DWOs. I love the watches now and wear them everyday. "So many watches...so few wrists." (BTW the one on the left is not wound and set.)

I meant to say that it is a Mk 1 or Mk 2 bezel...not dial.

Pretty! Is it the ETA option that uses the Flightmaster hands? They really look good. I did some case reshaping on this one and added a Mk 2(?) dial from Ingod44. It came out pretty well, but I want to get another and do it again. I think I can get it right the next time.

I think of liquidating in favor of a gen, at times, but where is the fun in that.

I wish your avatar pic was larger.

Your movement probably came with H3 wheels TC uses an H4 cannon pinion. That is the wheel on which the minute hands mounts. He uses it, primarily, because it gives a subtle look that is closer the the gen Sub. If you keep the H3 seconds wheel (which normally would be on there) you would need a second hand that has a longer tube. You're in for a very frustrating trip if you have never worked with assembling watches and movements. It's, almost, never as easy as just "drop it in there and go." Most here either have the experience to do a build or they farm it out to one of the modders that are accomplished in such., or, of course, buy a TC Sub.

I'm happy to see that pic with the open 6s & 9s. I just received two DWOs from Matt and haven't put them on as yet. Now, I'll get it done.

Not sure where you read that the DG 2813 is more reliable than an Asian made 2836 clone. The 2813 is a $24 movement from Ofrei and is difficult to work on. The Asian-made 2836 is $100 movement that accepts, for the most part, gen parts and is very easy to work on and is very reliable. The Asian made clones have gotten better and better where the DG movement doesn't seem as good as when I first used one. I do have one DG 3804B GMT movement that has been very good. The good point to the 2813 is that one can use it until it dies and then drop in another for a few $$s.

HHHhhhhhhmmmmmm...?

The real ones are anywhere from $15K to $30K on eBay. How many of these do your really ever see in the wild? Who wants a watch that is supposed to be a $25K piece but one of the subdials is glued down. This is why a workable franken 'tona is so $$$$$$$.

The only problem with a stainless Day-Date is that (I believe) the Day-Date was only made in precious metal. That being true...you can't make stainless steel look like white gold or platinum. Could be spotted.

+1 on that!! You have to watch out for dealers who place false quality standards in this market. Some advertise "Swiss-made Replicas." Do you really think Rolex would allow that in their back yard? Puullleez!

+100 on this. This is the root of the matter. What can your lifestyle support? Get an Noob PAM...most of them are super reps, but no one you meet has ever heard of a Panerai. Sometimes I think I will liquidate my rep collection ($4K+ in nine watches) and buy a nice gen DJ, but then I think...where's the fun in that?

Take a look at these. 22, 24, 26mm spring bars that simulate lug screws. Mine worked perfectly on my 297. http://www.vintagerstraps.com/zspr/spr.html

About three turns. Never really counted them.

Insert looks fine for an early lughole model. It is different from a late model insert. The 2 is very different.

Not sure why this is lined out. I have done the same thing many times. Before you remove the date wheel make a mark on the edge of the top plate as to where the jumper spring is located before you reinstall it. I use a piece of typing paper but in the future I will try the feeler guage idea. Never tried that. It take almost no pressure to depress the date jumper spring. You have to be careful and not bend the spring. Like anything else...with practice...

Where's the pics?

I'd like to know, from the experts, if this case looks right. To me it looks short and the lugs turn down to quickly from the bezel, but that could be just the lighting..

eBay says that "helenarou" is no longer a registered user. Are they going by a different name? Never mind...it is "rouhelena."

@1680 I can't tell you how much I appreciated this thread. I have had my JMB 1016 build for a year or more but never wore it much because I didn't feel good about it. I always knew the case wasn't quite right. When I saw your post I (almost immediately) uncased my watch, removed the bracelet and got out the files. It took about two hours and now I feel much better about it. It is not perfect yet but this was, actually, the prototype, as I have another drilled case. I will take another run at it in the near future. Sorry for the dust. Thanks again! M

Some guys here would wear that watch...take pictures of it and be proud to show it.