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ubiquitous

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Everything posted by ubiquitous

  1. On my old 1016, I used a 1600 case: Had the lugs drilled out and added a jmb bezel.
  2. Might have 2x gen 5.3mm crowns... I know I had some in my parts box, but may have tossed them in a round of purging as I don't have any need for them. If I still have them, they're yours.
  3. In situ pic, waiting for the kiddos to get out of school...
  4. I'd say MD is about right; $30k - $35k is the going rate for the secondary market. Retail is something ridiculous, like close to $50k...
  5. 16 feedback, and the most recent from a year ago. No way would I trust this...
  6. Thanks, gents. Just snapped a couple of random misc. shots... For now, I'm just using the TC 93250 combo; think it's essentially v3 links with a v2 clasp. That is one of the things I'll be changing up at some point...
  7. Thank you for the kind words, gang; much appreciated! The project took about a month or so to track down the parts, and I'll admit that it was a little more difficult than I initially thought it would be. Not as difficult as finding vintage Patek parts, per se... But I had a few of my usual sources looking and they were a bit surprised that LV parts weren't so easy to locate (it took a little more work than they were expecting). But patience did prevail however, and before long I was able to strike off one item after another from my checklist. The project is currently in a wearable state and I could consider it completed, but I don't think I'm quite finished yet; contemplating a few more changes Thank you sir coolfire is correct; the Daytona is one of my first builds from several years back, and technically, it's not mine It does, however belong to my son, who will receive it when the time is right (maybe after he graduates). Thankfully, that's a long, long ways away, so until then I'll look after it on his behalf
  8. As an aside- One of Paul Gerber's other projects (in collaboration with Dr. Oechslin) the MIH watch is based on a 7750; an annual calendar in which the complication is comprised of only 9 additional parts. It takes true innovation to implement a complication like this purely on the basis of simplicity.
  9. Been a while since I’ve built a Rolex… And even longer since I’ve done a modern sapphire model at that About a month ago I came to the conclusion that I wanted to put together a daily beater for the Summer and decided on a classic Sub for this project. After much contemplation I chose to shift gears ever so slightly and build a Lunette Vert, mostly to add a little variation and color to my collection as my 5514 already bears the standard black/white Submariner combination. Ingredients: -TC case -Genuine 16610 ‘Maxi’ dial -Genuine 16610 ‘Maxi’ hands -Genuine 16610LV insert -Genuine Rolex caliber 3135 -Genuine 704 crown/tube -Genuine 295C (older style w/o laser etch @ 6:00) I probably wouldn’t have opted to go the route of genuine movement due to the perceived build/gen cost ratio of a modern 16610, however I’m only $2500-ish in so the build made some dollar sense to me. The largest determining factor in this project was hinged on the fact that I managed to procure my 3135 for under $900 and I already had some of the parts in my spares box (i.e. the older 295C crystal, crown/tube, etc). Sure, I could probably have just picked up a gen 16610LV for $6k-ish, but that wouldn’t have been nearly as much fun (and over 2x the cost). Some (quick) pics... Thanks for looking! //ubi
  10. Had a bottle of Macallan 12 year; was good, but not quite to my taste (I need to note that I'm not much of a drinker to begin with, and my palate is quite unrefined). I ended up giving that to my mom-in-law. Looking to try Macallan 17 year next, and Glenmorangie Nectar D'or on the advice of a friend.
  11. If you can find one, a 3719 might be an interesting choice as well...
  12. I believe he's making reference to the best Rolex Submariner rep Basically a nod to the common question raised on most rep forums 'who has the best Sub?'
  13. Based on what I see, it looks good. If you can find an early floating Cosmo dial and pair it with a 200 Units @ 3:00 bezel, you'll have a very desirable watch.
  14. Okay, that's better. L serial places this around 1989 or so...
  15. Ehhh... Serial is out of range, my friend A 16520's s/n should start with a letter; i.e. the first 1652x was an R serial.
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