ubiquitous

LOL... Whatever. Please educate yourself before opening your trap. Here is the same dial, on a well known collector's watch from TZ. Same dial.

With the modern 16600 Sea-Dweller reps, no matter who it's from, seem to all have the same problems- -Case/caseback/bezel is typically not thick enough or not the right angle/shape -Wrong He valve; either the wrong shape/size and always the wrong material (genuine is made from Ti) -Crystal is too large in diameter, and the bezel/insert is also incorrect diameter as a result -Crystal is not thick enough Why? Because most 16600's are based on a Submariner case, which is wrong for a SD.

I would say that if this is a modded rep... It's 1) taken a lot of genuine parts out of circulation and 2) cost far more than any 'sane' individual would spend on modding a rep to actually build. Consider that the dial, crown/tube and insert purchased a la carte could buy 6 or 7 complete, brand new MBW's... Now factor in the other parts like the 93150, etc. and the initial buy in.... Do the math and ask yourself if you would logically spend that kind of money on a rep... I say gen. If it's a rep, then I am VERY impressed!

A few things to look at- -Crown is genuine, as is the tube- 24-702 and 7020. -Bezel is genuine -Insert is genuine -Dial is genuine -Crystal is genuine -Bracelet is a genuine 93150 Genuine datewheel for a 1570 has the 6 in '26' with a closed loop. All others are open... Draw your own conclusions... I have my mind made up Randy

Agree 100%...

I second the suggestion from Mickey Padge... The EE Daytona is a good buy, especially at that price. The EE uses a very similar case to the DW's; that said, the proportions are correct- 37.1mm case, 19mm lugs, asymmetric pushers, accepts a genuine T-21... If you're going to get a 7750 6263/5, I'd suggest that one

The 17j Movado 3019 PHC is also known as the Zenith El Primero 400. Zenith and Movado had developed the El Primero together, which is also the base movement found in a number of other watches, e.g. Rolex, Daniel Roth, Concord, Ebel 1911, Zenith, Panerai, etc. This can be a difficult movement to find- But more common in the Movado 17j 3019's; the newer 3019/400's have 31 jewels: The above are two of the El Primero 400's I used to build my personal franken-Daytonas. As it is the same movement Rolex uses in the 16520 Daytona, it makes for an accurate franken. Difficult? No. I can put one of these together now in about 30 minutes. The hard, and expensive part is culling all the parts needed Sincere thanks, Falco. I am humbled... My pleasure.

For today... A change...

Don't worry... I'm certainly not losing any sleep over it...

BTW... I think this is the same beano that wasted a bunch of my time a few years ago. If so, he is on my list as well....

I'm with jamesg here... Depending on price, I could be very interested in this pair as well...

Don't let it get you down, Kos. Folks like this come and go... I follow the same rule of thumb as Flav and By-Tor- If they're generally polite in their PM (please and thank you always goes far with me) and they have demonstrated that they have at least made the attempt at doing some homework on their own, I am more than happy to try and help out. But, manners are a must (speaking of which, when did the 'art' of good manners become a lost language?)...

Nice work, as always!

Friday- Saturday- Sunday-

Recently, I helped another forum member put a Daytona together; quick easy job, and while it was here, I thought I would get a pic or two of a neat trio... After assembling... Had fun putting this one together... Next stop will be for servicing, and after that, back on the owner's wrist. Best, R

Knowing Warren like I do, this must have been the cost of service at the Breguet AD in NY. If it was going to his favorite watchsmith, that would have been Ziggy.

Bodo obviously has quite a lot to learn to learn still. Rolex makes a factory white replacement with flat 3's: The above are not aftermarket; they are genuine. Do you really think that a collector with an original DRSD MKII dial, matching hands and nearly NOS condition watch would accept an aftermarket part in his/her piece AND post photos of it for other collectors and experts to pick it apart? I don't think so... Actually, '29' has an open 9; 26 has a closed 6. See for yourself: And Bodo, for the record- Before the collector you are trying to fool even has the watch in hand to see what direction the date rotates, I am sure he will spot several other flaws that will identify the watch as non-genuine.

Correct. I went with a 2824 in my project (16234 early 90's X serial case) as the position of the stem lined up center in the tube. The 2836's that I had tried positioned the stem too far back towards the caseback, and hence the stem was not centered. Different model ref's may require different ETA's due to the movement used in the original (i.e. 1570, 3035, 3135, etc). If you have one or both ETAs on hand, it's a simple matter of placing the movement and dial into the case to see where the stem lines up in the tube.

Indeed... If you're going to leave the watch 'stock', then there is no need to buy an MBW.

Gorgeous. I honestly don't know which is more amazing- The watch, the pics or the deal you got on it! Talk about being at the right place at the right time...

For the 16570 and 16710, I believe those are very close in size. Perhaps a few tenths of a mm off in certain measurements- i.e. bezel diameter, crystal diameter, case width and height: Lug to Lug 16570: 47.45 16710: 47.65 Crystal 16570: 30.4 16710: 30.00 Bezel 16570: 40.2 16710: 40.5 Height 16570: 12.65 16710: 12.45 Figures taken from an unoffical chart. Take these numbers with a grain of salt.

19mm bracelet, asymmetric pushers... 7750? Very nice!

Man.... I'd be down for an AP ROO and Patek Nauti Jumbo as well! Where does the line start?

Pugs... I think you just hijacked your own thread!

Hollow linkers look like this... In the wild, they look like this... Hope this helps...