ubiquitous

Hi Paul, These watch nomenclatures that collectors affectionately label their favorite watches with can vary depending on whom you're talking to What one person's definitive idea of what a Bond Sub is will most likely differ quite greatly from what another's opinion is on the matter (this discussion takes place on the vintage forums every so often). The watch in question from Bob Maron is a 6538 Big Crown (8mm Brevet), which is what most collectors term as the definitive Bond Sub. I believe Sean Connery wore either a 6536 or 6538 in Goldfinger, which helped perpetuate the 'Bond' label of this watch. The 5508's and 5510's are also labeled as Bond Subs, but I believe the 6536/8's have more of a defining role with 007. As for the watch on your wrist... That is a replica of the 5517 MilSub. Much different than the earlier Subs that are associated with James Bond.

Hmmmm... Not sure this would be a QC issue per se; the watch probably left the factory in correct operating order back in 1991/1992. Over time, wear, negligence, etc. can have the kind of effect on the movement parts as exhibited here. But, you can probably chalk this one up to poor design on Rolex's part

The usual... One on each wrist today... Left: Right:

Well, the axle/bearing for the rotor is probably quieter than the ball bearings, which may be why Rolex chose to go this route; I don't see any other performance gains from this type of set up, but Rob is more qualified than I to speak on that Since Rolex is an advocate of routine servicing, wear on the axle can be kept in check, and hence becomes a non-issue over the reliability of ball bearings (in their eyes). I myself believe that ball bearings are more reliable in the long run, and don't require routine replacement like the axle- I've seen a couple of Rolex calibers exhibit the problem Kurt originally posted, but not to that degree of severity.

As Rob mentioned, all in house Rolex calibers are like this, as their rotors use a sleeve/axle instead of ball bearings like ETAs. If the axel goes dry, the axle wears out quickly, which can cause the rotor to tilt and rub against the plates.

Hey gang, Okay, orders are a bit higher than initially anticipated, so I am waiting for a new batch to arrive to fulfill current demand. At this time, I would like to put a hold on all new orders until we have this first initial queue cleared out. I will send all orders out once the new batch arrives; this should be Tuesday or Weds at the latest. Apologies for the delay. If there are any questions, please let me know. Many thanks, R

Congrats, Ken! So, does this justify having a "pre-vow renewal not-quite-a-bachelor" bachelor party??

Wow. Just wow. Some people take watches way too seriously. Someone needs some fiber in their diet, methinks.

One to add to the horror museum. Here is my frankenstein FOLEX I built from a bunch of old junk parts... And a pic of the dial in process of being blacked out...

My weekend wear... Friday was- Saturday- Sunday-

Just a few quick shots of my small, humble eclectic collection. Many of these I've built and modified myself, though a few remain untouched. I've also managed to part with almost all of my gens; the vintage Omega SM300 is all that remains now. Over the years, the collection has grown and thinned; these are the ones that seem to have survived the test of time... MBW 1665 Sea-Dweller -MBW case -MBW dial -ETA 2846 -Watchmeisters prototype date overlay -Genuine bezel insert -Genuine T-39 plexi -Genuine 24-703 Triplock crown -Genuine 24-7030 tube -Genuine 580 ends -Genuine 78360 Oyster bracelet -Genuine 93150 clasp -Genuine 2mm springbars -Drilled lugs -Shaped CG's -Caseback paint removed Frankenstein 16610 Submariner -Mystery case -Noobmariner dial -ETA 2836 -Noobmariner date overlay -Mystery hands -Genuine bezel insert -Genuine 24-703 Triplock crown -Genuine 24-7030 tube -Noobmariner SEL 93250 Oyster -Noobmariner caseback DW 6265 Daytona -DW 1st gen 6265 case -DW 6265 bezel -DW 1st gen dial -Swiss Valjoux 23 -V72, V23 and MM hands -Genuine T-21 crystal -Genuine 24-703 Triplock crown -Genuine 24-7030 tube -DW 78350 Oyster bracelet -DW 571 ends Frankenstein 16520 Daytona (white) -Genuine 16520 case -Genuine bezel -Genuine tritium dial -Zenith El Primero 400 (31j) -Genuine hands -Genuine 295 crystal -Genuine 24-703 Triplock crown -Genuine 24-7030 tube -Genuine 78390 Oyster bracelet -Genuine 503B ends Frankenstein 16520 Daytona (black) -Aftermarket 16520 case -Aftermarket bezel -Genuine lumi dial -Zenith El Primero 400 (31j) -Genuine hands -Genuine 295 crystal -Genuine 24-703 Triplock crown -Genuine 24-7030 tube -Aftermarket hollow Oyster bracelet -Aftermarket ends Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790 -Thin case model (8.5mm) -New bracelet modified and fitted Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1A -TW Best unmodified Custom made 913 Omega Constellation Skeleton -TW Best Constellation case -Swiss ETA 2892 skeletonized movement -Rolex hands Genuine Omega 165-024 Seamaster300 -All original PAM 009 'Pre-A' PVD -Unmodified davidsen -Dirk Deluxe strap with PVD logo buckle Frankenstein 3646 Hommage -PAM 183 rep case -WM vintage dial -Davidsen plexi crystal -Swiss ETA 6497 movement -PAM 210 hands aged -MF natural tan strap Thanks for looking! Cheers, R

A beautiful timepiece... And the price is right too!

I've been trying to get a hold of my dial guy, but he seems to have gone MIA? Hmmmm....

Nice collection of vintage Cosmos!! I especially love the new silver dial!!

For the price... 900 Euro (+/-) with dial is pretty good. Especially if serviced. So, either the one you're looking at, or the one being sold by Dirk are good for the price.

PM's replied to!

The long awaited vintage overlays are now available for sale. These are now being consistently produced at very tight tolerances; as part of our product testing, we installed these datewheels on four different MBW's and observed long term usage and operation to insure that (1) they could be consistently applied and installed and (2) the date function works correctly over an extended period of time. The reason for our extensive testing is a result of variation in case tolerances even within the same model watch- Dial and datewheel spacing can vary significantly. The result of our findings- The datewheel works properly with each of the MBWs we applied these to; having an MBW means you can substitute genuine parts but does not mean that the internal measurements are consistent. For that reason, just like the majority of other parts for modification which we have all purchased, you should assume that your overlay will need to be installed by a competent watchsmith who is used to performing these types of tasks on projects. We will be happy to guarantee the overlay for print quality as well as the accuracy of the sizing and cutting. Obviously, we cannot guarantee that your particular piece can accept the overlays or that you have the skills and tools necessary to install the overlays successfully. If you have doubts when you receive the overlays, please return the unused overlay for a refund. If you decide to install the overlay yourself or at the local chop shop, regardless of the self-percieved watchsmithing skills involved, the overlay is not refundable nor returnable. Please let us know via PM the quantity desired and we will provide you with paypal information. The price will be $30.00 each including shipping. We will discount the price to $25.00 for orders of five or more. Neither the price nor the discount will be negotiable. No one is going to get rich on this project but we're not interested in taking a loss either **NOTE: If you decide to purchase via paypal please only use the words Vintage Overlay in the subject and description. Any reference to a brand name will result in a refund to your Paypal; "No Overlay for you!" Interested parties, please PM either myself or kruzer00. Thank you, Watchmeisters

Some Patina for you...

I must say... The white has always been my favorite, only because it looked cleaner to me. The black dial always had a tendency to look dirty, especially in direct sunlight as the indicies would reflect off the crystal, and then back off the dial and so on (much like all other glossy Rolex black dials). So, you'd see not only the indicies, but also the subdial rings and the sort reflected off the dial, and it just looked dirty. However... I must admit that the black dial is starting to grow on me. After having spent some time with this one on the wrist, I'm finding that it has more eye appeal than the white. I find myself reaching for the black dial more often as it's just gorgeous to look at. The repainted dial was horrendously bad at reflecting the dial markers and subdial rings as it was solid black and very gloss. The genuine dial helps diffuse the reflection a bit, as close inspection under light reveals that it's not really black, but more of a charcoal-grey with brown color. The surface is slightly more matte... It's very hard to describe.

What was it that Paul always used to say? Oh, oh yes... I believe it was something like: DO'NT BE NERVOUS FOR TRACKING So, with that said, don't stress. I know, easier said than done, but the guys are right. Sometimes, it might take Paul a few days to get tracking. I remember once on an order with Paul, I waited a week and a half before I had tracking; honestly, I didn't need it because the package arrived before the tracking info was even given to me. With CNY wrapping up, that might also factor into it...

Ahhh... The secret to picking them... That's always been a tough one for me. I don't know how many times I've sold a watch upon receipt, simply because it fell short of expectation. I've managed to hold a steady 12 watch count in the collection; all of which are keepers. I've given a few away here and there... But for the most part, I'm more than satisfied with what's in the watch box as of current. But it's mostly been a path of trial and error...

Match the dial to the white hands. To me, the white dial and markers just looks cleaner. Yellow hands and markers look... Well, fake. The ideal color for both dial and hands, in my opinion would be a creamy beige-white. Just a little off white. I used to love the aged/patina'd look... But over time, my tastes have changed to cleaner aesthetics. I still like a bit of patina... But only if it's a result from natural wear and tear

Hmmm... Not so sure it's the midsize Yachtie (168622). The watch in bklm's post has a 7mm Triplock; a 168622 has a 6mm Twinlock. Plus, the cyclops on the midsize is positioned further out towards the edge of the crystal etc. etc. The 16622 in the TZ post (and in the OP's initial posting) is a genuine.

Holy smokes... Now YOU'RE a blast from the past!! Where the heck have you been and what have you been up to, kind sir???

Sir Kruz.... And what a lovely Panda that is! 7753... Old skool case... VERY nice!