ubiquitous

Looks fine to me....

Danke! The watch originated as an MBW 1680 Red Sub. The following mods were made: -Genuine Tropic 19 crystal -Genuine bezel insert -Repainted dial on a Singer base -ETA 2846 slow beat movement -Better rep crown installed -CG's trimmed -Lug holes drilled -Hollow link bracelet And a genuine for reference:

I believe the threading for the reps is just ever so slightly off. Thread pitch for the genuine tubes should be .25mm- If you run a tap of this size through the case, that should take care of it. Bertie- A tap is what cuts the threads.

I can also deliver head butt out of nothing.

Authentication is only performed by SC's, and I believe only by a very small group qualified to make such authentications. For what it's worth, there is no known rep spotter's guides, or bibles, per se that Rolex S.A. issues out. Rather, there are archives and records of serial numbers (case and movement), reference numbers, identified regions and/or specific dealer locations that the watches were shipped to, etc. This is why some SC's can make certain authentications, while others cannot. A good example is the Mil Sub (5517)- Rolex UK is qualified to make such an authentication as the Mil Subs were specific only to that region, and Rolex UK would have the history on those watches as that is where they originated from. Rolex NYC could not make an authentication on such a piece as they have no information on these specific watches. The authentication process itself is performed by an in-house specialist- Cross checking of serial numbers, reference numbers, examination of parts all takes place by a small group of people within the SC. Between the referencing of records as well as physical examination of the watch, authentication can be given. And, yes- I believe that those responsible for authentication can provide proper authentication of parts by examining tell tale characteristics that cannot be duplicated- Things like font, dial printing methods, dial bases, etc. As good as some replications are, they simply cannot duplicate certain characteristics, unless the same methods were used to produce the replication- And THAT is what is a heavily guarded secret at Rolex. Besides... Handle enough Rolex watches day in-day out for years of your life, and you develop not only an eye for such things, but also a feel. R

The stuff legends are made of...

...And I guarantee, that's going to hurt.

RWG2 and TRC are where I hang my hat(s) to call 'home'. Great people, and great discussion- I have a lot of friends at both sites! Besides... The two sites are about all I can keep up with anyways. Sometimes, I can't even keep up with RWG2 by itself! I will never forget my days at RWG1; afterall, no one forgets their first! But those days are long past, and the ship has since sailed. I thank Admin, and Ken along with the moderators and members for all that they do here. For me, I don't need anything (or anywhere) else

If the parcel's destination is the U.S., you can use USPS' website as well to track shipping as well.

K, It kind of depends... A genuine vintage Submariner (1680) can be worth $4000 US to $7500 US, depending on the dial type (white or red font), condition, box and papers, etc. So, the cost to build one can be much less than the cost to buy a genuine, though with a frankenstein the provenance is also an issue (but since we're dealing with reps, it's a non-issue). Personally, I like to build, so the frankenstein is a more interesting route to take, but for overall value and future resale, the genuine is definitely the way to go.

Tribal- I have two different AS movements- One is a 1906 (I believe) and the other is an 180x (don't recall the specific caliber no.). Both have pinions for 90/150/22 sized hands- Same as the ETA, except for the seconds hand... Randy

Man... That is gonna be one killer watch, Kostas! The strap puts it over the top!

My old Tudor/Verbal's new Tudor: Custom built...

I like the black 42mm with SS bracelet, mostly because of the close family relation to this one:

Phenominal work as always, Tommy! I love it!

It's a completely different movement than the 775x. The 2894-2 is a 2892 with a DD chronograph module on top. The subsidiary dial spacing is going to be much different than a 7753's...

Absolutely gorgeous!! I love it!

Ludo- How is the overall finish of the dial? Is the radial finish more prominent in this version? Are the subdials still glossy? I know Bob was working these issues with DW, and each step had become progressively better and better. I'd like to see how things are looking as of current If you can, please post some pics!

$175 for servicing/overhaul on a chronograph movement is a damn good price. In my experience, I've found that there are a lot of watchmakers charging double that, or sometimes more to do a comparable job. For the work and expertise that Rob (Ziggy) offers, his prices are a bargain.

My daily beater... No other watch in my collection gets more wrist time...

Have you removed the case clamps?

Excellent work! Great write up and images to illustrate the process! I think the Swiss ETA is the best solution to 7750 B1 woes

I guess that is the $198.00 question! Who's going to give it a try first?

Ooops. I see you already sent me a PM on the matter anyways.

Hey, Steve. I have an extra 21j Asian Auto in my parts box. Drop me a PM if you want it. No charge to get it out of my parts box (it's taking up space).