ubiquitous

I'll need to see what I can do. I'm caliper-less at the moment, so getting measurements might take me a bit. But, I'm looking for basically the same dome/crystal shape as the one you are proposing for the 6152; simple dome with 5mm height... That would be perfect! I am sure that most owners of the WM custom made hommage pieces (based on the 183 case) may want one of these crystals as a spare. Of course, I can't speak on those owners' behalf, but seeing as how WM is not very active these days, and parts are not easy to come by on these pieces, having a source for such things would probably be greatly appreciated.

You can use these crown and tube sets with: Submariner (1680, 16800, 16610/LV... 5513, 14060, etc.) Sea-Dweller (1665, 16660, 16600) Daytona (6263, 16520, 116520) Yacht-Master (16622, 16623) Models these crowns won't work with Submariner TT and 18k (16613, 16618) Daytona TT and 18k (16523, 16528, 116523, 116528) Yacht-Master 18k (16628) ALL GMT models (1675, 16750, 16700, 16760, 16710, 16713) ALL Explorer models (1655, 16550, 16570) In addition, the triplock sets are also compatible with a number of Tudor refs, but I'm feeling a bit too lazy to list those... Best, R

I believe that the key to quick visual identification of the new Asian 7750 is with the beat (28.800bph), and the regulator (or lack of).... Prior models differed in both of these areas...

Let me look into it

What does the milesimation number on your caseback start with? B? If it's B, the dial could be signed either 'L' or 'T'. The B series run was a transitional period for Panerai, so either could be correct.

I've seen some genuines pop up from time to time, though at $800+, not exactly my ideal of a reasonable solution. Or, maybe you're looking for a rep/aftermarket dial?

Genuine dial will fit the movement, however the dial feet have to be removed (not a big deal). The more important aspect (at least to me) is that the subdials for 3:00/9:00 line up correctly. 6:00 is a dummy hand that is glued into place. However, be aware that most so-called genuine dials are either repaints, or aftermarket pieces for V72/727 movements. True genuine dials are a small fortune in their own right; with all the repaints out there, any dials advertised as genuine original are most likely not what they seem. As for where to obtain a spare movement... Why, DW of course!

I would be more concerned about the movement as a whole. As avitt mentioned, it would be wise to procure an extra movent to go with that spare stem, should you choose to obtain one. The movement is about as easy to find as the stem, if that's any indication, and you'll want to have a back up, just in case The lug holes, as they come are suitable for genuine 19mm springbars. They should not be drilled, as larger lug holes would be incorrect for this model. 571 end links are the correct pieces for cosmo's of this vintage using 78350 bracelets. Alternatively, 371's have also been known to be fitted; for earlier models (6239, 6241), the 7205 rivet with 71 ends were fitted, and early 70's models had 7835 folded links with 71H ends. Hope this helps.... R

Wasn't Google supposed to release a payment service of their own?

He's a seller on eBay...

Yes. There are several watches available with the 2836 fitted with the 24 hour wheel to make it a GMT.

Very nice! A good start to a great addiction. You know you can't stop at just one, right?

Man... You're killing me! I have been looking high and low for a plexi to fit on my 45mm 3646 hommage (based on a 183 rep). WM had some, but haven't had much luck down that road, so I'm still searching. No love for a Radiomir case?

With regards to the EP 400- There are two different variations that I've seen- 17j and 31j. Both are auto, and both would do the job for my 16520. The 17j seems to be the older iteration with the 31j having superceded that design. I believe both also beat at the rate of 36,000bph, which is one of my reasons for wanting the higher jewel count. I'm not well versed in the details of an El Primero, so if someone can correct or expand on the differences or information between the two different versions, I'd appreciate it Slay- The Zenith in the auction is very nice, but a bit more than what I wanted to spend on a donor watch. I've seen watches with these movements sell for half or more than the one listed...

I'll send you the aged one... I have plans for the others...

They now reside on a different timepiece, which happens to belong to a good pal of mine- A top notch fellow!

Nah... I don't really need it. I have others I can use No, really... I do insist!

I have one for you. My last one. see it here... It's the pearl only- No insert. The pic of my 1680 shown also has the dial and hands that are on your watch now- Since you have my old parts, you should probably add the pearl to go with it all; especially since the pearl was aged with the dial and hands to begin with...

I've used pigment dye on my 1680- The pics above are after several applications; the color and tone can be tailored to suit each individual's taste with more or fewer applications using your color tone of preference. The Holtz dye is probably of similar nature.

$150 is a fair price for that dial.

From my experience after speaking with Sherrington on the subject, the DW tubes aren't even glued into place. I confirmed this with my own DW after he told me about his experience on this mod. Sure enough, the tube came out with very little fuss, and the genuine or aftermarket tubes out there should thread right in (even though the thread pitch is slightly off between the two). The only instances of difficulty that I've heard of is with the base of the tube not fitting the case correctly, as it is tapered with a stepped edge at the threads where the case gasket fits. Halley brought this up in one of his postings, as he ended up cracking one of his tubes in half (same with Toni T). As Avitt mentioned... The genuine crown fits the stem threads perfect. The stem's length should be fine with either crown (gen or the stock DW).

For a refinished dial on a questionable base... I'd say pass, especially at that price ($415). True Singer dials have a much different finish/appearance to the back of the dial... They have a very brassy/patina'd look, while the so called 'genuine' dial base in the auction is very clean, and silver. You can find redials of the same or better quality for less elsewhere.

Manuel, What would you like to know with regards to the spacer ring? I'm still searching for a proper EP for my Daytona... I'm trying to hold out for a 31j movement, but I may just break down and get a 17j version instead. I'm getting tired of looking at an empty watchcase! Please post pics of your 16200 when you get it back! Would love to see it! Cheers, R