ubiquitous

Hmmmmm...

Feek, If you need these, send me a PM...

Think I might change things up a bit and wear this one tomorrow...

I imagine this to look somewhat like sssurfer's avatar!

Very nice result, Chris! You definitely don't want to leave inserts in the solution for too long! That's for sure! Here's the results of a genuine insert, left in the bath for an hour. A little too long methinks

Real? Fake? Take yours to an expert like this! Authentication by an expert.

Gathering parts is the fun part.... At least, to me it is. And... I owe much to you as well, my friend! This is a fun hobby... But the real bonus is the people you get to meet and form friendships with! Cheers, Randy

Very nice, Mr. H! I think your sig line should read Quality AND Quantity!

Vero in Italian translates to 'True'; hence Vero Cuoio = True Leather in Italian- These are Dirk's Deluxe straps, while Buccaro is a lesser grade 'Deluxe' leather of the Vero Cuoio. Dirk Gradry is your man for these- Those are his trademark straps and CF buckles. Dirks are my absolute favorite when it comes to 24/24's with sewn in buckles...

Size really does matter...

Agree 100%. There is no need to draw unnecessary focus like that to our hobby. It's best not to ask for that kind of trouble by posting reps on the gen forums. It accomplishes nothing.

HD- Is this price reduction happening on a per-store basis? Might have to go check this out tomorrow...

Some pics of my spare bezel... Let me know if your planned methods don't pan out. You can resort to this extra bezel as 'Plan B'.

Hmmmm... Not sure which caseback could be used... This would be a tough one since the 40 had a production run of 200 pieces, and finding a back with this kind of milesimation could be tricky. Maybe you could request a caseback from David with the milesimation engraved as such, or get one without prod. numbers engraved?

My suggestion- Get the PAM36, obtain a T SWISS T dial from davidsen, fit a solid caseback to it, and you've got yourself a VERY nice PAM40 that is unique to the rep world!

Weight of the Rolesium (plat/ss) and sometimes rotor sound will give it away- especially if it's a 21J Asian version, as they have a tendancy to sound a little 'rough'. In addition, the YM is a hard one to get away with anyways- You have details like the CG's (which differ than most others in the Sports family), dial color/tone, font color, bezel color, bezel markers, etc. that all have to be spot on, or there's a very good chance that it will get called out. When your day to day involves handling and looking at these things constantly, it's easy to develop an eye to identify something that just doesn't look, feel, or sometimes sound 'right'. This is why I stick with vintage MBW's. When genuine parts fit with little fuss, it's much easier to find and build a much more convincing piece.

Arch- Ink can always be removed from engraved backs. I removed the paint from my MBW 1665 shortly after I rec'd it: Just use some of Mrs. A's nail polish remover Should work like a charm!

Date magnification for a gen 127 is pretty big- More or less 3x. This is because of the tall profile of the crystal, which allows for a greater distance between the cyclops and the actual date/date window.

Indeed... I see John has lowered the price back down to a more palpable $99 (instead of his temporary inflated $199). BTW, if you knew what he was asking for his Superdome 39, you'd be in major 'WTF' disbelief!

I have a good flash file of the commercial for the Daytona with the 24hrs. @ Daytona theme. Not sure how I can embed it into my post, though...

I 2nd that. You can pick up a good, cheap insert on eBoy...

Correct- The tubes are used to prevent tearing of the strap at the lug ends. I'll sort through my stuff to see what I have

Did someone say... The 'T' word...?

I've got an extra bezel you can try. Just found it digging through my parts box. Snapped it on my MBW Sub, so I know it's compatible...