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ubiquitous

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Everything posted by ubiquitous

  1. My low quality folded link Oyster rep. Very cheap and flimsy...
  2. So, I guess Silly Putty is not a good substitute?!
  3. 1680 bracelets (9315 and 93150) are hollow midlink bracelets.
  4. Good thing there's a choice for everyone!
  5. Domed or flat, I'll take either (but make mine tall and acrylic, please)
  6. The red/black roulette dial is my favorite bezel combo next to all black But... The Pepsi is quite possibly the classic bezel combo for the GMT. Surely, you can't go wrong with any of these combinations!
  7. I'd like to see one as well. A nice 9315 and 7835 would be HOT sellers, no doubt!
  8. Ahhhh, yes. THEE watch!! That one is going to be mind blowing
  9. Looks like Cray hit the questions with excellent detail, and may also have a good candidate to pick up
  10. I have a folded link rep bracelet somewhere too, but it's not exactly the best quality I'll snap a pic and post it in a bit...
  11. Thanks for sharing, Chris! This bracelet looks to be identical to the one I picked up, but at a much nicer price!
  12. Please post some pics, Chris! Very interested in seeing it!
  13. Hollow, or solid? I was of the understanding (based on some prior experiences) that the ones being sold were solid link...
  14. Nice looking watch, but a bit pricey for what it is (€2650)! Ouch.
  15. Linky From the auction- *20mm lug width *serials *7 1/4" *Solid Steel - 53g *High quality brushed finish *Adjustable length via 5 threaded rivet screws *HOLLOW ROLLED mid-links!
  16. Plenty of discussions on this topic. Please try looking through the archives, as this subject is a popular subject
  17. Ask away, buddy! If I'm able to help, I'm more than happy to lend a hand The 2836 came from another watch, and the datewheel was already fixed onto it. Unfortunately, the silver color is incorrect for this one- The datewheel should actually be white for a 16234 If you have the right datewheel (either genuine or overlay), then it's pretty easy to install- Simply line it up on the ETA datewheel and glue it on. I don't have any yellow datewheels in my stock, but I can get a hold of a genuine yellow datewheel for a 3135 (clockwise rotation).
  18. I received my riveted Oyster in the mail today. For the money, this is a very nice piece; very high quality and good construction. However... A couple of interesting bits about this bracelet. I first recall seeing this bracelet on an Eddie Lee vintage Daytona I picked up about 2 years ago. The bracelet is of rivet construction, folded/rolled hollow mid links, and a very difficult method in the resizing process. Links are held together by screw pins with dual ends; this is somewhat similar to the old Panerai Pre-A buckles for those familiar with them. Those were the ones where 2 screwdrivers and three hands were needed to undo the pin (one screwdriver would hold the pin still whilst slotted in the head, and the other would turn/break the lock free). After some time spent, I was able to finally get this one resized. Definitely an exercise in patience... Anyhow... On with the pics.
  19. Easy? Absolutely... Step 1- Unthread the caseback using a Jaxa type wrench, or similar tool Step 2- Unthread crown from tube; engage the crown to the time setting position. At this point, undo the small stem screw to release the stem. ***Please note- The stem should be in the time setting position prior to releasing the stem to prevent the clutch from falling. Step 3- Unthread the screws holding the case clamps on. At this point, the movement/dial/hands may be uncased from the caseband. Additionally, Ziggy has a more in-depth write up in his section in the watch repair forum. This brief write up will give you the general idea of what's involved. Best of luck! R
  20. Details? Just a project I'm about to abandon... *sigh*
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