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KBH, that's interesting. I've not had any apart that had plastic crystals. So, let's say I wastrying to brew up a more vintage looking sub I could get one of the domed plexi crystals and just glue it in? I'm liking the sound of that!

I hope they look more or less correct, the watch pictures I "browsed" were fairly small. I don't even want to think about how many of these things I'm gonna have ot eat if there is anything seriously "incorrect" about 'em! I even found a [picture of a dial that the top line on the bottom was red in what looked "middle-eastern"! Maybe a rep of Osama's watch?

Hmmm, must be a Europe thang. I've had several thousands of dollars pass through my PayPal account and I've never gotten anything like that

I've ordered some dials that look similar to that...

Offshore, do you have an ISBN (should be on back cover)? Amazon does not pull up anything relevant when searching on the title... Oh, hackR, those two tutorials didn't really tell me much more than I'd figured out but it seems there must be a better techique for ensuring the crystal is centered and straight than eyeballing it and hoping for the best! I know that doesn't work for pressing/driving in large oil seals!

Hike, why did you "brutalize" that poor watch!!?? You're meaner to 'em than I am!! I suspect you might be missing something or need to "pookey" the crystal in. Does the Milsub have a "click" bezel? If not, the O-ring probably puts tension/rubs on the bottom of the bezel to keep it in place after rotating to desired position. I've never figured out why the crystals aren't set with clear RTV as it's waterproof, lasts for years, and quite strong. Look at the big chunks of glass on racquet-ball courts and they are bonded edgewise with the stuff. I don't see what would be wrong with setting in a crystal like this with RTV, installing bezel to get everything centered, let it cure, remove bezel and trim off excess with a scalpel... hackR, this will be for Rolex style reps but I'll check out the links you provided. I have a cheapie press from Harbor Freight but am not 100% sure I'm doing things correctly and ofrei is back-ordered on gaskets for 30.0 mm crystals so I don't want to run the risk of tearing one up... When drilling lug holes I don't have a lot of choice other than removing the crystal. I tried "jigging up" a sub in my mill and even with light vise pressure with rubber padding the crystal shattered.

Oh, yeah, this style is different than the ones I'm messing with. These are the cheapie Sub variants with the pressed in crystal that seats into a plastic/nylon "L" cross-sectioned gasket...

This may have been covered but it seems I don't get along very well with this search engine. About all I've been able to gather is to "use a crystal press" and seat the crystal! The crystals all seem to push out easily with thumb pressure after the movement has been removed. Upon doing whatever and cleaning everything up the time comes to re-install the crystal or to install a new crystal. Do you put the gasket on the crystal and press it in as an "assembly" or put the gasket in the case THEN press the crystal down into the gasket. I am inclined to think that the gasket should be installed into the case first but without the bottom of the crystal being beveled how does it start correctly/straight and keep from deforming the gasket or shaving off a chunk of it? Thanks...

I think they need new crystals! If this was done artificially then some things can be carried a bit too far...

Thanks, Lanikai.

I hadn't thought about getting into the watch manufacturing business, let me think on it...

OK, y'all quit posting pix of neat watches. I have the red/black bezeled one on the way...

It might be possible, would require a miniature end mill, any kind of drill bit will just try to follow the hole. There is not an end mill he correct size but a 3/64" is just a little smaller by around .050". If the hole could be "moved" with this it could then be drilled to proper size... This could get expensive since a 3/64" cobalt end mill is about $20 and I have no idea how many holes it would be god for or if it would just catch and snap off! If somebody'll buy a handful of 'em and send me a bare case I'd be more than happy to try!

Not the easiest thing in the world to redrill a hole and change the centerline at the same time.

Good job, I ain't worked up the nerve for that one, yet! Reckon we just need to start calling you "der dialmeister"! As far as the cat, she looks like she has absolutely not even a trace of a sense of humor. My Maine Coon tom gets a look like that right before he decides bits of you are a chew-toy...

condemore, now, as alligoat said, you just need to "age" a bit. Since I realize how time consuming this process is I'll gladly wear it around my shop for a few months so it will pick up a good assortment of nicks, dings, and scratches - no charge! I had decided to quit buying for a while (I really need to quit for a while) but seeing this... They have item 31906 which is a vintage with black and red dial at idolreplicas for $108 so I think I'll get it, enlarge the lug holes and put in the proper spring bars - gettin' pumped! This is the description: Rolex Vintage GMT SS Black / Red Bezel With Jubilee Bracelet-Same Structure As Swiss ETA Version-High Quality

Chris, PM me if you want to look at a very large macro photo of the dial and I'll take one. I only have one dial (has feet that fit a21j movement) but if it would be suitable we can probably get them in quantity for a very reasonable price. But, I'm not a guru like a lot of the people involved in this thread so I really don't know if it's a passable dial or not. It is the same as the dial that's in my project in the "I have joined the Submariner "No-Date" club..." thread.

I think it will be really cool if Chris starts carrying goodies like this for those of us who enjoy tinkering! I know that they'll get you a lot of neat stuff if you ask about it but would be really neat to have an on-line modders parts catalog!

Alligoat, probably won't do the band swap as I'm trying to keep this one under $60 (I would have hit my original $50 goal if I hadn't busted the freakin' crystal!) and with another crystal AND the new crown and tube I have on order I'll be right at that amount. I think I'm going to try the "epoxy mod" on the pearl. A nicer no-date watch will have to wait until the eurotimez 98% no-date as available! ;-) That means y'all need to buy a bunch of "hand pressers" from me so I can get the PayPal balance up to where I can afford one! TBP, I am trying to learn so I start out with cheap beaters and attempt to refine and improve them with a strict $ limit. So far I've been successful on some and not so much so on others... My Deepsea Sea Dweller was just so incorrect that I turned it into a franked up "Super Sub"

Pilot, kinda confused as to exactly what you are wanting to do. Is it safe to assume you already have a Datejust with a 2813 movement and would like to get a different dial for it or you have one minus dial? Also, you would like to change to a 4813 movement? Eurotimez has the proper tall cannon (I'm told) 4813 you'll need and TBP is correct about gen dials are pretty common on flea-bay. Or, I am fixin' to order myself some more rep dials and if you can tell me what you are looking for I'll include it in my order if you are CONUS and would only cost you $10-$15. I actually put my order in last night but can probably add a dial to it. Alligoat is correct about it being probably easier to buy another cheapie unless you are wanting to play and get experience.

I think he's also hinting that we have to be realistic about this or it might not even get off the ground. Since we are a fairly small "consumer group" from a numbers standpoint that we don't have any clout with any manufacturers and if we get pushy they might poke us in the eye with a sharp stick, figuratively speaking of course! It's a rep. I'd like to have one as accurate as is feasibly and economically possible, but in the end it is still a rep and as such I have come to learn (via these various fora) to accept that it can never be perfect... But, hey, my ETZ V5 DSSD is in the mail so life is sorta good!!!

OK, I put the band on correctly, buffed the sides a bit, and ordered a 2mm thick crystal. After a new crown and tube this one will be about as done as it gets!

Looking good! Guess I better start correcting the flaws in mine!

alligoat, what I got out of Chris' response is that Noob doesn't make a no-date and he can't really ask them to make out but could use theirs as a model for somebody else to make them. I think the non COSC version would "enhance" the simplicity of the product... I'm not sure how much per dial a "custom" would cost but it's probably a scary number as well as a large quantity! If a "stock" item could be found that was "correct enough" it would help the project along considerably both in time and expense. It doesn't hurt my feelings if nobody likes the dial I posted (some do, some don't) I was just tossing it out as a possibility

It's not super hard to remove the movement/dial assembly and once you get that out you may stand a pretty good chance of being able to glue it back into place as long as you have some fine tweezers and good magnification... But, if you don't have what I would consider average manual dexterity/ability then maybe look for another repairman as I don't see why the tube would need to come out...