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freddy333

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Everything posted by freddy333

  1. I think you are wrong about that.
  2. Phong uses a stone tumbler to add wear/patina to his cases. It's a mostly automatic process. His labor involves putting the case into the tumbler barrel along with some type of polishing medium (I would love to know exactly what he is using........so if anyone knows, please let us know) & turning the motor on. Then, he lets the tumbler do its work for several hours to a few days, depending on the amount of 'wear' he wants the case to have. Once the case has the right amount of wear, he takes it out, engraves it (if required, which takes no more than a few minutes) & ships it off. The cases themselves, as has been discussed many times on rwg before, cost no (or very little) more to make than the average replica case, because that is all they are - replica cases. The quality of the steel is the same, the manufacturing technique is the same, even the lack of QC is the same. The only area where they may differ is in how much effort was spent to match the dimensions of the gen they used as a model. And, considering the amount of variability (lack of dimensional consistency) of all of these premium cases, they are likely made in the same factories along side the average Canal Street replicas. Frankly, I doubt it costs more than $10 to make any of these cases. Engraving, which just about any jewelry store can do, a few dollars more. Phong, Natalie & others selling these outrageously priced rep cases are simply pocketing huge profits. Now, I will grant that those who operate in the US or EU are entitled to make a bit more profit due to the legal hazards involved in their business. But selling rep cases & dials for more than $300 is really outrageous. But, as they say, value is what a buyer is willing to pay &, when it comes to watches, especially vintage Rolex watches, neurotic WIS types (like me) are not always playing with a full deck.
  3. I believe the hands for all 62xx Daytonas are the same (aside from color of chrono hands).
  4. You can always phone some local watchsmiths to see if they would be willing to put it together for you.
  5. I would never buy a Rolex without good, clear pics (including at least 1 movement pic). Also, for me to seriously consider something like this, seller must have at least 200 previous Rolex-related sales with no less than 99% seller rating (100% for Asian & Italian sellers).
  6. I would never assume anything with these things. Although they do not list it on their website, they do sell the dial separatly. You need to email them & specifically ask about it.
  7. You might try NDT. Although not listed separately, they told me the dial is available, but it is expensive (because of 'special paint').
  8. Not sure if it would fit your case, but you might try MY's bezel. For my Phase I franken, I ended up using the bezel that came with the Silix watch (I tried so many bezels & inserts back then & cannot remember where this particular insert came from now), which is very close (closer than MY's) to the gen part. This is the Silix bezel (with MY's insert) on my Phase I watch
  9. The other day, I heard from a reliable source that Rolex still had them available as late as 1970 or thereabouts.
  10. JoeyB brings up a salient point. Whichever way you go, be sure to cop 1 of JoeyB's inserts. They are heads & shoulders better than anything else out there (other than a 40 year-old NOS gen).
  11. No PanAm engraving on the caseback, but there are a number of threads detailing the trials & tribulations of my gen Aryan 'Master project (Earlier, Phase 1 black face franken on left)
  12. I am not intimately familiar with U-boats, but try Andrew &/or Joshua. They can often source something (assuming it is available) even if they do not list it. Welcome aboard & friends/family thinking you are crazy is not something that wears off over time.
  13. No. 1530, 1560 or 1570 only (& 1520 or 1530 in the 5513). The '5' denotes a date complication, which none of these (non-date) watches would need. The watch is somewhat unusual for having dash marks on either side of '- SWISS -'
  14. That appears to be correct. Here is the result of a whois on wm9.com - --- performing WHOIS on "wm9.com", please wait... --- contacting server whois.networksolutions.com No match for "WM9.COM".
  15. A-OK. If you do not want the bracelet, you are welcome to send it to me (or contact MY to see about having it restored).
  16. freddy333

    6538

    Although both have issues, the 2nd dial (in the post above) is more accurate overall. The most obvious problem is the off-center = sign, which is a dead-giveaway on a Roiex.
  17. Considering the seller's history (nearly non existent) & the fact that the numbering has been 'worn' off (actually, chopped-off is a more accurate description) between both sets of lugs, I would look elsewhere or bid assuming this is an aftermarket case from an unknown source.
  18. Other than its parts value (for the movement, assuming it is all correct), there is no real long-term value in these since they were not made by Patek, are not a design that Patek would ever consider & would never be authenticated by a Patek representative or collector. I hate to seem harsh, but these are monstrosities, nothing more. Patek made its name by producing finely-crafted works of horological art for men with style, not fads for the fashionable (the era of watches that can be seen from space ended some time ago, so it is difficult to even call them fashionable anymore). Please do not waste your money on 1 of these. If you want a Patek, get a Patek. If the price is too steep, buy used or get a nice (simple) Patek rep. Or, if you must have a gargantuan watch, get 1 from a watch company that makes gargantuan watches.
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