freddy333

As always, with reps (clones are reps), have it serviced upon receipt. Problems like this are quite typical. Arguments can always be made that the huge price differentials between gens & reps/clones cannot be justified. However, the differences (in fit & finish) are real & it is up to the buyer as to what that difference is worth.

Ending the work week still wearing my 'Graph

Scanning photos does add a cumbersome set of extra steps, but, years ago, before I got the Canon P&S, I used to scan photos taken by my Contax &, as long as your photos & scanner glass are scrupulously clean & use a high dpi setting (600-1200+), you should be able to turn out great pics. On the other hand, that is alot of work, so it might be worth investing 30-50 quid in a cheap P&S (today's entry level P&S cameras are significantly better than my 12 year-old Canon).

What is the problem now? Has the movement been (properly) overhauled since you received it? My point is that while this movement may very well have inherent flaws, you cannot really know whether a problem is due to a design flaw or simply poor overall condition. Even the generally bullet-proof 1570 will crash & burn within seconds if improperly maintained. As is the case with most reps (& pre-assembled frankens), movements from Asia tend to arrive in poor overall condition & in need of an overhaul. So the only way to gauge the inherent quality of this movement is to have it properly serviced (so the usual problems of dirt, improper lubrication & poor adjustment can be ruled out) & then see how she behaves.

The F3 is more than capable of producing excellent pics. You should read some of the tutorials in the Photography section & practice, practice, practice. Remember, pics like these (& most others) were taken with this 12 year-old, 4MP point-&-shoot Until about the mid-1970s I believe.

Diesel - I can sense the anticipatory drool forming from here. Looks like a beauty.

Ditto.

Still & again (& running within 2 secs/day, not bad for a 53 year-old non-chronometer-rated watch )

It may be Swiss-made & Rolex 'quality', but I would be surprised if it is a genuine Rolex part.

Dial refinishing - click here (for obvious reasons, I do not want to post the name publicly, but there are numerous threads on RWG discussing it that you can search out).

Patience, grasshopper. The door is now open & the horse is already out of the barn. It is just a matter of time until there are many Rolex clone movements to choose from.

Ditto Alligoat.

Yes, Andrew is 1 of the good guys in the business.

You read my mind.

Still

Have you tried pushing the stem back into its default position & then pulling it out to try setting the time again? Sometimes, the clutch lever or detent (parts within the watch that lock the stem in place) will pop out of alignment & pulling the stem out & pushing it back in a couple of times may sort it out. Failing that, the watch would require service. Specially, the movement would need to be removed from the case, the hands/dial removed from the movement & then the keyless works (which contain the 2 parts mentioned above) can be reset. I believe 1 or 2 of the Pinned articles at the top of the Watchmaking sections contain guides to uncasing & hand/dial removal. Be aware that it is probably cheaper to replace the movement (unless you can do the work yourself) than to have it repaired by a watchmaker. If you can take some good, clear macro (close-up) pics of the movement after you remove the caseback, I can probably guide you through the process. You will need a set of jewelers screwdrivers. Also, if you plan to do the work yourself, wear some Latex gloves (the oils in your skin will cause the metal parts to rust). Druggists, pharmacies & many auto parts stores sell them.

Welcome. This is the correct place to post your questions. However, I cannot answer your question about shipping to EU (you might ask Andrew at TrustyTime), but I can tell you that TrustyTime is 1 of the best sellers. I cannot select a watch for you. I can tell you that the most reliable & authentic-looking replica watches tend to be those that are all steel with the fewest features. I would also encourage you to Read This 1st.

Sorry, TeeJay, but that is just wrong. These types of rumors have been surfacing for many years &, to my knowledge, there has never been any credible evidence proving that Rolex is currently assembling or producing any of their watches outside their factories in Switzerland. The proposed 'Swiss-Made' rule you refer to does not pertain to the majors like Patek, VC or Rolex. It is meant for those companies who source ebauches from other vendors (as opposed to manufacturing them in-house as Patek, VC & Rolex do).

The former. To the best of my knowledge, while ancillaries like straps or springbars may sometimes be sourced (by dealers) locally, all Rolex watches are currently made in Switzerland.

Very good. You might want to correct the 'hand swap' in number 3 to read 'band swap', which, I assume, is what you meant.

All of the following were fitted to the 6263 by Rolex - 7205 (riveted) with 71 ends 7835 (folded link) with either 271 or 371 ends 78350 (solid link) with 571 ends Early versions would have had rivets, mid versions folded links & the final versions solid link. Today, if Rolex replaced a bracelet on a 6263, it would be fitted with the 78350. Any of these would be suitable. As for end links other than those indicated above, it is hit-or-miss since only those listed above were made to fit the 62xx Daytona case. I have 7835s with 357 ends on all of my 62xx Daytonas &, while they do not fit perfectly, they look & feel fine to me.