freddy333

I suspect these 500s (especially the Abarths) are going to put a serious dent in Mini sales. To stay on topic, some additional views of the Sub I am wearing today

Good to see you & your GMT back in the wristies, By-Tor.

Fiat 500? Nice.

Movement looks good.

Good points! It goes without saying that, ideally, I would go the Spaceview route. After all, if it was not for the Spaceview, Accutron would never have become the icon that it is & my lust has been for the Spaceview design, not Accutron's technology. But this watch came to me by way of a close relative, so I am not sure I want to change it. But I am still going back & forth, so we shall see.

Price has nothing to do with legitimacy. It is only legit if the seller discloses the fact that the dial is not genuine. He can price it as he sees fit.

At long last, I have in my possession an authentic Accutron 214 'tuning fork' watch Here is a backside view showing the 214's unique caseback, with its pull-out time-setting handle (left), screw-down battery cover (right) & serial/date code (below) In the early 1960s, a relative got 1 of the 1st Accutron Spaceviews & I can still remember the amazement of hearing the watch hum when he held it up to my ear. Now, the question is whether to remove the dial & fit a Spaceview crystal/handset (a Spaceview is essentially an Accutron without a dial) or just overhaul & tidy it up?

Wearing my pre-Comex while pondering the options with my new Accutron 214

3035 = 28.50mm dia, 6.35mm ht 3135 = 28.50mm dia, 6.00mm ht

Yes, dial is not genuine. Looks like someone went a bit overboard enhancing the dial patination.

Beginning with the Zenith-powered Daytonas (1988), the center portion of the casebacks was brushed.

Because they use a lower grade/quality of gold to plate/flash (or whatever term you prefer) reps. This is 1 of the differences between a $200-$300 rep & a several thousand $ gen.

I have never seen an accurate rose gold-plated rep. Their color always looks strange.

The pusher cut-outs tend to vary & 62xx Daytona casebacks were polished.

I would 2nd that. I got the 1 in the middle from Honpo some years ago (by way of a friend) & its subdials are pretty close Unfortunately, Honpo is notorious for dealing only with Asian customers (often, in person only) & even these are not perfect. Unfortunately, you are out of luck. Due to their respective chrono pinion placements, I do not think you will find a 7750 dial that exactly matches the size & location of the subdials on a V72/gen dial. Typically, your choices are a dial with smaller subdials or a dial with subdials (the proper size) that bleed into the outer minute track.

If this was a dress watch, I would get it fixed/replaced. But, on a tool watch, as long as it is not impeding the rotor, I would leave the caseback as it is. It adds character.

Obviously, size does matter.

The look is not the salient issue here (there is little to no difference in the appearance of springbars of the same size/style/type). It is the spring tension, which is considerably stronger on Swiss-made springbars vs Asian-made, that make the difference. The stronger the internal spring, the less chance the springbars will collapse or let go, which can result in a very nasty accident.

If you want to do it right (without spending on a buffing wheel & pads), get a Bergeon 5444 fine polishing pad. Ofrei & other watch parts supply dealers sell them. Find a pic of your watch online & simply copy the direction of the brushing. Use masking tape to block off the polished sections or areas you do not want brushed.

Cooper is a vintage Rolex collector (I recall hearing something about him picking up the hobby from Clapton, another famous vintage Rolex collector), so I doubt he is wearing 1 of those mod-jobs.

It is quite likely that the hand was never pressed all the way onto its pinion at the factory (there is little or no QC in rep manufacture) & the act of uncasing the watch may have been enough to loosen the hand to the point where it is now too loose to stay in place. Your only option is to uncase the movement again, remove the minute & second hand (if fitted), press the loose hour hand down (GENTLY) with a clean toothpick (I assume you do not have a proper tool for setting watch hands) until it gently seats & reinstall the other hands. IMPORTANT - Before recasing, pull the stem out to the time-setting position & manually run the hands through an entire 24-hour cycle to be sure none of the hands are coming into contact with each other, the dial or the inside of the crystal. Check, also, to be sure the date-change works correctly. If everything is working, press the stem back into the winding position & check that it also winds properly. If all is well, recase & take pride in having repaired the watch yourself.

Most of the watch parts suppliers sell 2mm, non-stepped Swiss-made springbars, which are similar to Rolex's (actually, they may be the same since I am pretty certain that Rolex sources theirs).