freddy333

Either the stem was not locked in the movement & it fell out or the stem broke off. In either case, you will need to remove the caseback. In the case of the former possibility, you will need to loosen or press the stem locking device, reinsert the stem & then lock it in place. In the case of the latter possibility, you will need to purchase a new stem & install it. If you lack the tools/knowledge, I would take it to a local watchmaker (an easy fix for a watchmaker).

Rolex Bexley is only following the business model that began in Rolex New York (with the assistance of the (supposedly anti-monopolistic) US government) in the early 90s. Up until a few years ago, I could still buy parts from Bexley & other Rolex centers in the EU. But that has changed. And, unfortunately, I believe this policy (of not providing support for vintage models (those made more than 30 years ago)) is becoming Rolex company policy internationally.

The author makes some good (though a bit hackneyed, for those who have been collecting for awhile) points. However, if vintage Rolex watches/parts were cheap & easily accessible, they would be Coach. And who wants a Coach (not me). Anyone who has seen the travesties employed against vintage Rolex watches by so-called indy 'Master' watchmakers can understand why Rolex has taken such seemingly draconian measures to protect their brand. Though, as an amateur watchmaker, I can see the other side, too. After all, many competent watchmakers are being pushed out of business by Rolex's actions. What is the answer? Probably, the best option would be for Rolex to begin supporting their vintage models (like Patek & Mercedes do) with service & parts availability, at least within their own service network. That way, vintage Rolex owners would not be forced, increasingly, to turn to the dark side (non-Rolex sources) for parts & repairs.

For the record, the Chinese holiday shutdown affects shippers there, too. So you can probably add about 2 weeks to your normal wait. Things should clear up by the 10th.

If you have a drill press, cobalt bits & some oil, you can drill an He valve without much trouble. Read this.

Check ebay.

I suspect these 500s (especially the Abarths) are going to put a serious dent in Mini sales. To stay on topic, some additional views of the Sub I am wearing today

Good to see you & your GMT back in the wristies, By-Tor.

Fiat 500? Nice.

Movement looks good.

Good points! It goes without saying that, ideally, I would go the Spaceview route. After all, if it was not for the Spaceview, Accutron would never have become the icon that it is & my lust has been for the Spaceview design, not Accutron's technology. But this watch came to me by way of a close relative, so I am not sure I want to change it. But I am still going back & forth, so we shall see.

Price has nothing to do with legitimacy. It is only legit if the seller discloses the fact that the dial is not genuine. He can price it as he sees fit.

At long last, I have in my possession an authentic Accutron 214 'tuning fork' watch Here is a backside view showing the 214's unique caseback, with its pull-out time-setting handle (left), screw-down battery cover (right) & serial/date code (below) In the early 1960s, a relative got 1 of the 1st Accutron Spaceviews & I can still remember the amazement of hearing the watch hum when he held it up to my ear. Now, the question is whether to remove the dial & fit a Spaceview crystal/handset (a Spaceview is essentially an Accutron without a dial) or just overhaul & tidy it up?

Wearing my pre-Comex while pondering the options with my new Accutron 214

3035 = 28.50mm dia, 6.35mm ht 3135 = 28.50mm dia, 6.00mm ht

Yes, dial is not genuine. Looks like someone went a bit overboard enhancing the dial patination.

Beginning with the Zenith-powered Daytonas (1988), the center portion of the casebacks was brushed.

Because they use a lower grade/quality of gold to plate/flash (or whatever term you prefer) reps. This is 1 of the differences between a $200-$300 rep & a several thousand $ gen.

I have never seen an accurate rose gold-plated rep. Their color always looks strange.

The pusher cut-outs tend to vary & 62xx Daytona casebacks were polished.

I would 2nd that. I got the 1 in the middle from Honpo some years ago (by way of a friend) & its subdials are pretty close Unfortunately, Honpo is notorious for dealing only with Asian customers (often, in person only) & even these are not perfect. Unfortunately, you are out of luck. Due to their respective chrono pinion placements, I do not think you will find a 7750 dial that exactly matches the size & location of the subdials on a V72/gen dial. Typically, your choices are a dial with smaller subdials or a dial with subdials (the proper size) that bleed into the outer minute track.