freddy333

Update -- The 3G's running swell with the CF drive & 1,700mAh battery. I had to transplant the wiring/jack from the 850mAh battery onto the larger battery because the latter's jack was too large for the socket in the iPod. But after a bit of silver solder, shrink wrap & 1.5 hours to top off the half-charged battery, the 3G's been playing solidly for 30 minutes without any issues & the battery state indicator on the iPod still reads "100%" charge. Unfortunately, the Rockbox OS's settings for "Battery Capacity" max out as 1,200mAh, so the iPod's battery status, which is based on this "Battery Capacity" setting, may poop-out 500mAh before the battery actually runs out of juice. I have not yet tackled the 3,000mAh battery, in part because it is 30% thicker than the 1,700mAh battery, which appears to just fit. I will also need to "donate" the wiring/jack from an OEM style battery to get it to fit in the iPod because these LG batteries are made for a device that connects to the battery through contacts built into its side. But I think those contacts are removable & there will be simple + & - connections I can solder the transplanted wiring/jack to. Then, I will just have to figure out how to provide another mm or so of space between the big battery & inside caseback of the 3G.

Took my Aryan 'Master out of her case today to exercise her legs --

Nice piece, but I think most members would find it easier to view your post if you left out the black highlighting. It makes reading a chore.

Update -- The intermittent "Panic" crashes continued with the Lexar MicroSDXC, so I ditched the MicroSD option & reinstalled the CF drive along with a slightly beefier 1,100mAh battery. I am currently charging the system with the new battery & will perform some tests once the battery is fully charged. A bit of a disappointment, but I think I may be able to get the 3,000mAh battery to fit after all. It will require some battery surgery in the form of transplanting the wiring/jumper/connector from 1 of the small, OEM-style batteries onto the big battery. Not quite sure if/how to go about it, but I will report back later today if I make headway. For now, I think CF is the way to go with the 3G iPod. I also discovered that the 3G's run-time is about 1/4 that of the standard 5th Gen iPod. So that may tip the scales in favor of the 5G as the main source when all is said & done. I am not sure how it got that way, but my 5G is filthy inside, including the headphone & dock ports. So everything will need to be thoroughly cleaned before I can get a final tab on performance, functions & sound quality. Stay tuned --

As most who venture into the world of Rolex reps learn, there are no perfect reps. All contain errors & inaccuracies. The goal is to learn what those differences are & find the rep whose issues offend you the least. I always recommend that people target a specific model & then spend time researching the details of the gen model you want so you are fairly familiar with its overall look. Even better if you can make a trip to an Authorized Dealer (AD) or 2 so you can try them on, operate the controls & see how they appear in reality. That way, you are in a much better position to know what to look for & what to expect before you begin The Search for the right rep for you. You might begin by downloading pics of the Daytona model you want from Rolex's website & other gen collector sites. Study them & then search the offerings of the sellers here to see which reps offend you the least. That will save you alot of time, money & frustration in the long run. Ask any of the old-timers here how they know this to be true.

Minor Update -- The Lexar MicroSDXC card just arrived & I am in process of installing the Apple OS & uploading 4,000 song files. So far, I am not seeing much improvement in data transfer speeds, which are currently varying between 10meg/sec & 21meg/sec. A bit disappointing, but the MicroSC's claim to fame (for me) is its lower physical profile so the 3,000mAh battery will fit in the case. More to come after the song file upload completes & I am able to run some function tests of the completed Lexar (MicroSDXC)-powered system.

I am not familiar with 'nh35' movements, but, if you have the skills, tools & will, almost any similar Sub movement can be made to fit a Sub case. Hopefully, someone with direct experience will chime in with a more definitive answer for you.

Not quite a match of any existing (vintage?) model, but nice work. I like it.

You are correct that the drive is not in the signal path, but it is a link in the overall chain (that dictates overall reliability), which is what I was referring to. I may not have been clear. I probably should not have said 'straight wire with gain', as that infers the audio signal, when what I meant was just that simple is generally better. The KISS principal -- Keep It Simple Stupid -- may have been a better way to put it. I think you are correct about the HDD adding "noise". Listening, critically, to compare the signals via HDD vs CF, the CF output has a lower noise floor (via over-the-ear headphones), not to mention there is 0 mechanical noise coming from the iPod case with a solid state drive. Also, I have experienced some issues with the MicroSD drive in the form of random "Panic" crashes in Rockbox (these have not occurred in my limited testing with the Apple OS, but I may just not have given it enough time to manifest since most of my testing is being done via Rockbox). According to others' reports of similar crashes with SSDs & Rockbox, they appear to be related to the SD cards themselves. That is, some MicroSD &/or MicroSDXC adapters/cards work well with these SSDs & some do not. This gets back to the reasoning behind my preference for CF over MicroSD & the simplified connection layout. So far, I have had no issues with the CF drive & it is about 25% faster than the MicroSD drive. By faster, I mean I am seeing about 30+megs/sec when uploading 4,000 music files from PC to CF-equipped iPod. In contrast, the same transfers onto the HDD produce about 15-18megs/sec, while things drop slightly to about 14-16megs/sec to the MicroSD. Also, again, because these old iPods have processors & motherboards designed to handle a max of 10-40Gb of mp3 files (although they support ALAC, I doubt they were designed for them), anything that reduces (or bottlenecks) transfer speed is directly reflected in the unit's functional operation. Trying to create a playback database or use the Shuffle feature (on the entire database) with 60GB worth of song files is slow with the HDD or MicroSD. On the other hand, it flies (ie., takes about half the time), relatively speaking, with the CF system. Back to the MicroSD/SDXC issues -- it has been established that the overall success with this configuration is highly dependent on the particular brand/model of MicroSD/SDXC used in the SSD drive. Generally, it is thought that faster, more high-end MicroSD/SDXCs perform more reliably in the iPod than do slower, cheaper cards. So I thought I would be safe using a relatively fast (& generally reliable in other contexts) Sandisk Ultra SDXC U1 A1. Apparently, others have had similar problems with this particular card. So I ordered a (rather costly) 128Gb Lexar Pro 2000x UHS-II SCXC, which is reputed to be trouble-free for these. Based on the specs of the Sandisk & Lexar cards, the latter should be significantly faster as well, so, hopefully, I will be seeing data transfer speeds closer to what I am getting with the CF setup. That would be the best of both worlds -- optimal speed & minimal profile height (leaving room for the big battery). So keep watching & I will update in a few days with the results of the Lexar card transplant.

Yes, the 3G supports firewire via its docking port. I have a plain USB-to-docking port cable somewhere, but I generally use the USB/firewire combo "Y" cable because the (standard capacity) battery does not last long when transferring more than a small bit of data to/from the 3G without it being powered via firewire. You can still buy USB/firewire "Y" cables or, as a (power-only) alternative, you can get 1 of the docking plug-to-12V cables & plug that into a 120V-to-12V (cigarette lighter female jack). See pics (from ebay). I have never used AAC, but the 3G's default OS supports ALAC. Though, if I remember correctly, you are limited to 16-24-bit with an upper limit of 92khz (not 192khz, which I believe is still considered the standard for "high-res" 24-bit audio). So it is easy to make lossless ALAC copies of standard CDs (ie, 16-bit/44khz) & store them on the 3G like any other music file (eg, mp3). But ALACs give you a bit of additional headroom in case you want to play high-res 24-bit recordings on the 3G. Just remember you are limited to a max of 92khz@24-bit, rather than the more typical 192khz. I should also mention that installing the Rockbox OS is highly recommended since that also supports FLACs, but I am not sure whether Rockbox increases the upper-end of the khz limits for ALAC/FLAC on the 3G?

With a Sub, always an Oyster.

Update -- I have begun receiving some of the upgrade components -- solid state drives (SSD) to replace the original hard disk drives (HDD) & larger batteries. The general view is that the 5th generation iPod was the best sounding due to its improved Wolfson DACs. However, to my ears, the 3rd sounds more natural & less harsh. I think most iPod listeners tend to be young & more emotionally-driven. I think they mistake mo' bass as being "better" sound. For some types of music, it may be. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I will be getting to the 5th gen mods (they share essentially the same upgrade components) once the 3rd gen mods are complete. So far, I have swapped the HDD for the CF card in the 3rd gen iPod & it is working perfectly. The benefits are faster access times (especially, now that the amount of music capacity far exceeds what the iPod was designed to access), longer (battery) run-time & the iPod is much less liable to impact-related damage since it no longer contains any delicate, moving components (HDDs are notoriously delicate & prone to impact-related damage). The iPod is also dead silent & weighs about 40% less without the relatively heavy (& noisy) HDD. It is worth noting that when performing this upgrade, you should format the new/blank CF card in a Windows PC to the default Windows 32-bit format. That way, it will be functional in both Windows & Macs. Also, since the new CF card is blank (ie, it lacks the iPod OS), the 1st time you power the iPod up, you will get the 'empty file' icon error, indicating the missing OS. Simply, connect the iPod to a PC running the latest version of Apple iTunes, which should recognize the 'new' iPod & prompt you to Restore it. The Restore process installs the necessary iPod OS, making the player bootable into its default menu system. All that is left is to upload your tunes & enjoy. My next project is to tackle the battery upgrade, replacing the current 850mAh battery, which is located in a cut-out in the lower right-hand corner behind the CF board, with, hopefully, the 3,000mAh battery that I hope will fit between the CF board & the iPod's back cover. Currently, I get about 1.5-2 hours run-time on the 850mAh battery. I would get triple that if everything was in mp3 format, but about a fifth of the music I have is in Apple's lossless ALAC format (similar to FLAC, for those who know about such things), which results in larger (& more energy-consuming to decode) music files. In theory, upping battery capacity nearly 4 times along with the increased efficiency of the SSD (HDDs are energy hogs) will hopefully result in 10-12 hour (battery) run times. Though, in cases where only mp3s are used, I have heard of 50-hour run times. But we shall see. If there is not enough space for the big battery with the CF drive, the plan is to replace it with the MicroSD drive (same 128Gb capacity), which is about 1/2 the thickness of the CF board & should provide more than enough space. I imagine some of you are wondering why I do not just go with the MicroSD option since it is more likely to leave space for the large battery? The reason is that I am a firm believer in the straight-wire-with-gain principal in audio. That is, the fewer components &/or connections in the signal path, the better the sound (& the more reliable the circuit). The MicroSD drive has 1 connection between the MicroSDXC card that fits into its MicroSD adapter, a 2nd connection between the MicroSD adapter & its slot on the MicroSD board & a 3rd & 4th connection between the MicroSD board & the IDE-to-SD adapter & the adapter & the iPod's motherboard. Meanwhile, the CF has only 1 connection between the CF card & its slot & a 2nd connection between the CF card board & the iPod's motherboard. The CF option is both simpler & contains half the connections in the signal path, so that is my 1st choice. But, again, I may end up taking the MicroSD route if I am unable to fit 1 of the larger batteries in the case with the CF board. Anyway, here are some pics to fill in some of the blanks --

Wearing the Seagul '63 today --

I just found the same dial for sale on Chrono24, which is a respected German watch website that provides buyer protection. Here is the link on Chrono24

Not quite a Dark Side of the Moon "Master", but there is just something about a good, unopened tape (at left) --

I think LPs and classic cars (I was trained by British Leyland on Triumphs (and Jags), but I digress) are a different story because LPs still outperform digital in many ways and classic (points-based) cars can be repaired without computers & may be the only game in town after an EMP/CME. Mechanical watches, in contrast, are really only superior to their quartz counterparts in being able to run without batteries & being more aesthetically pleasing to aficionados of the genre. Also, although aftermarket parts may appear for many mechanical brands, Rolex is not likely to make it any less difficult for the aftermarkeers in the future than they have done for the past several decades. I am not at all hopeful that vintage Rolex watches will be maintainable for those of us who are not uber wealthy, powerful & well connected (to Rolex).

Looks OK (genuine) to me. Nice watch.

Between that & the recent inflation of demand for Rolex-anything (in great part) due to the sudden/huge ingress of millennials (smartly) converting their (increasingly worth-less) currencies into (increasingly valuable) collectible watches -- having finally begun to see how goofy computer watches look -- have made me increasingly gun-shy to perform the types of routine servicing of vintage Rolex movements I did just a few years ago. Not sure what we are going to do when (not if) the already sparse pool of vintage Rolex components dries up. That is also why I have recently become more acceptable of some quartz watches, especially those that display the time in an analog format. If I can frame my thinking into a more quartz-accepting view, once the cut-off occurs, the loss will feel (a bit) less painful & the transition more normal. Life in the air age.

I think you are wrong. Dial looks good to me & seller is generally reliable. As for the price, well, the usual vintage Rolex qualifier applies to vintage Tudor as well - today's crazy price will seem like a bargain this time next year. & with so many financial types having seen the inflation writing on the wall for the past year, demand for good, vintage Tudor pieces has outstripped supply. Appropriate accordingly.

I completely agree with Nanuq (surprise, surprise). The radiological luminescence on these dials decayed years ago & a glow is a good indication of recent/Asian manufacture (a trait you do not want on a vintage Rolex) & 1 of the 1st things that scream "fake Rolex". Your SD looks wonderful as-is. If it ain't broke, anything you do to fix it may likely break it. Having said that, if you have the will & bank account to justify replacing the dial, hands & movement with the correct gen components, that would be a significant step-up. But, mostly, for your own peace of mind since only about 1% of the public &/or a watchmaker (who opened your watch's case) would appreciate the difference.

You all might find this article interesting -- Millennials’ Aspirations Drive Modern Luxury Watch Growth

I would separate Rolex from all other brands, because Rolex has been playing pricing games due to the aspirational mystique they maintain for decades. As for the rest of the watch market's recent pricing, I think it is due in part to simple supply & demand & the increasing popularity of (mainly) vintage Rolex among celebrities. As more & more millennials tire of geek-style (computer watches) & edge into the adult world, they are flooding the mechanical watch markets as new buyers. & because mechanical watches, especially the popular brands, cannot be pumped-out like Apple watches, the demand greatly outstrips the relatively fixed supply.

Assuming the part was within spec when installed & the movement did not suffer an impact, a bridge may have been overstressed (overtightened) or installed incorrectly. No offense intended, but having it occur multiple times to the same component sounds like pilot (watchmaker) error. Make sure all parts installed adjacent to or after the part in question are both in good condition & installed correctly. If you are able to post good, clear macros of the assembled movement with the part in question in clear view, that might be helpful in spotting the problem. Another thought - can you remove the cap jewels above & below the third wheel to see if the complete wheel train still moves freely with a VERY light push? Also, watch the third wheel while spinning the train to see if its pinions or teeth are binding with anything around it. If the third wheel's bottom pinion keeps breaking, it must be either under too much pressure or installed in a way that is causing uneven lateral pressure on it. I am also assuming all parts are CLEAN before reassembly. If not, perhaps there is a shard of metal on 1 of the jewels that is acting like a saw & cutting into the side of the pinion, causing it to eventually break.

Sad, but true. To many RWG old-timers, this bit of reason may seem hackneyed & trite, but remains true - No matter how crazy Rolex prices are today, they will seem like a bargain 1 year from now.

Mike, to purchase, simply peruse the dealer listings on the main page. But it sounds like you are unsure as to which Sub model you want. That being the case, you will save yourself alot of frustration &, perhaps, buyer remorse, by researching the model you actually want before hitting any buy buttons. I would recommend either spending some time on timezone.com or 1 of the various Rolex forums to narrow down your target Sub. Or, better still, visit a local Rolex dealer & spend some wrist time getting accustomed to the various models. You may find that 1 stands above all others. Or, you may even find yourself fast-forwarding to purchasing the real thing (as many here end up doing). Good luck & happy hunting.