freddy333

I had a bit of time today, so I thought it might be interesting to compare 3 of my grails today to where they were a few years ago. Other than the previously missing bracelet on the 6241, see if you can spot the changes. Before Now

Sapphire-lensed GMTs are not my specialty, so excuse me if I am wrong, but are the bezel fonts supposed to be serifed on the 16710? Otherwise, great pics & write-up.

Riveted bracelets are fine, just not that 1.

Ditto & replace that crummy bracelet with 1 of Yuki's folded links ('This time the endpieces can perfect fit with gen 20mm springbar' - Yuki) (Click pic for link)

It looks pretty cool to me. Not something I would ever consider wearing (at least, not in public). But, in a display case, it would look stunning.

(click pic for link)

When it comes to vintage Rolex tubes, Stilty is exactly correct

I get called out all the time, which is why I always carry a gun (& move alot)

The 6263 was produced from about 1972 to 1987 & the last of these would have been fitted with the 3rd series bezels. Beyond that, I have never seen any (reliable) documentation that put dates to 62xx Daytona bezel versions.

No guarantees, but try here. You might also check with a couple of local, professional watchmakers to see if your case threads can be repaired (often, they can). Or try this guy, who is well-known & specializes in vintage Rolex repairs.

Back in the 1960s, Speidel sold a stretchable metal bracelet called Twist-O-Flex, which was very popular, especially with divers, which allowed them to easily slip their watch over their wet-suited wrist To compete, many companies (Rolex included) produced stretchable versions of their metal bracelets. Unfortunately, while a nice convenience, stretchable metal links tend to pinch skin & pull (arm) hair, making them some of the least comfortable bracelets ever made, which is why many companies (Rolex included) continued to sell non-stretchable versions of their metal bracelets long after production of the stretchable versions ceased.

I feel for you . Maybe these will brighten your day

It must suck being you, stuck in that hellhole with nothing but beach & palm trees.

How about some washers around each of the dial feet? Since there is an endless selection of washer sizes/thicknesses, you should be able to select a pair that provide the exact spacing you require &, unlike gaskets, they will maintain the spacing without compressing when you put everything together.

Very difficult to ID a bezel. This is definitely a case where you have to buy the seller before you buy the watch (or, in this case, bezel). If the seller has a long, established track record in vintage Rolex parts/watches, then it is probably a safe buy. Otherwise, without something along the lines of an original sales slip from Rolex SA or an AD (that you know, so you can confirm the paperwork's authenticity), I would assume it is aftermarket, regardless of the seller's hyperbole.

Thanks All. I do not think Rolex has ever had those kinds of ads. At least, not that I have seen. But, then, as Andy Warhol proved with a Campbell's soup can, images of an icon are a powerful marketing device. With a Newman Daytona, its component parts are those tools.

Not in the old MBW cases anyway. There are a couple of threads detailing the work I did on mine that you might Search out. I understand the newer MBWs differ slightly, but I have never compared them, so I cannot verify that.

Great pics, ASCI.

Hard to tell with these pics. Shoot a pic outside in the sun over something dark & the area in the cyclops, if it is gen, will look like a hole in the lens (ie, clear, with almost no glare/reflection). Rolex ARs both sides of the cyclops, which is lacking on virtually every aftermarket xtal I have come across (though many aftermarkets have the laser etching @ 6, so this is not a reliable indicator).

At some point, you may have trouble winding or setting time, depending on where the clutch gets stuck.