freddy333

It would help alot to know which Sub you are building? The difference is in the details. Each sells good parts & not-so-good parts. But without knowing what you are building, that is all I can tell you. This would be best answered by Yuki (he is very helpful).

Try here.

My only criticism is the glossy/shiny dial. I think these all had matte dials. But otherwise, very nice work.

Once you remove the movement & can see all the pusher parts, it should be pretty obvious how it goes together. If not, post a good, clear pic of the parts & area inside the case where the tube fits.

I faced the same dilemma during Phase I construction. Ultimately, I opted to remove the quick-set date & hacking functions, so the 2846 functions just as my gen-powered '42 does. Of course, because it is such a pain-in-the-ass to set the date on a non-quick-set watch, I have to keep it on 1 of the winders. But a small price to pay for a watch that I can hand to someone (with a bit of Rolex knowledge) that wants to see how it works . On a similar note, for those who question the reasoning behind fitting gen movements into rep/aftermarket cases - I recently got my money's worth when the watchmaker in an AD, after questioning the authenticity of my beater, got that deer-in-the-headlights look after opening the case. All he could say was, 'Ugh......er.....ehhhhh.................this is an old 1, isn't it? I guess I've got alot to learn.' And my female friend nailed his guilty coffin closed with, 'Yes, he's got alot of 'old 1s''.

Case is from an old rep with a working he valve. Movement is a Rolex 1520 with gen handset, gen T19 crystal, gen 703 crown/tube & caseback from another old cheap rep that I hand-stamped for the Comex number.

Works for me. Nice job.

Still Saturday evening & wearing a Sub

If this fails to dissuade you from wasting your money on a Comex, I am sure Ubi can come up with something that will

Been some time since I worked on an ETA, but I think someone posted that that is a standard ETA part. So you might check some of the parts sellers like julesborel to see if they have it. Otherwise, unless someone has a spare, you may need to do what I did & purchase another rep GMT to get a GMT donor ETA.

Yes. If you want a gen hand, be prepared to pay dearly for it, especially if you find 1 in NOS or pristine condition. Beware of 'gens' coming from Asian countries - there are many reasonable aftermarket GMT hands being sold as gens, even by generally reliable sellers. If in doubt, get a good, clear macro & post it in the Rolex forum.

Pull the crown all the way out to the time-setting position & leave it there until you reinstall. That will reduce (but not eliminate) the likelihood of your disengaging the keyless works when pressing the release & r&r'ing the stem.

Yes, you need to remove the movement & reassemble the pusher. There are 3 different styles of pushers used in these watches, but this break-down of the basic components should give you an idea of what you are dealing with The housing (in red box) screws into the pusher hole in your case. Then, you fit the spring, metal washer & 2 rubber gaskets (in that order) onto the screw piece at the left. That assembly fits through the housing piece & the cap in the lower right corner then screws onto the screw piece. There is also a pusher that has the end cap (the part that came off of your watch) secured by a circlip inside the case. If you have that style of pusher, the circlip is likely floating, loosely, around inside your case. If it got lodged inside the movement, you may need to have the movement overhauled. In any case, the cap came loose, leaving the inner spring exposed. Hopefully, you still have the metal washer & 2 rubber gaskets, which provide the seal. If not, you can source them through most watch parts sellers, a local watchsmith & some eyeglass stores.

All ETA-style 77xx chronos should be similar. Do you have that button on yours?

No, that was the Phase I 2846-powered GMT (& the 24-hour hand was constructed from 3 different hands). You may remember that the Phase I watch was based on a Silex Sub & 1 of Josh's 1675s. So I took the small arrow tip from MY's GMT hand (made to fit a Rolex 103xgmt), soldered that to the wand from Josh's 1675 & soldered those 2 pieces to the inner ring from another hand. I had a pic of the backside of the hand where you could sort of see the 2 solder joints between the 3 separate parts, but my computer crashed a couple of years ago & I lost that pic. Excepting the insert (which looks gen to me), this watch is gen. I just located 1 of the pics from my construction thread. Actually, the GMT hand consisted of 3 solder joints (4 separate parts). I forgot that I had broken the wand & had to solder that back together. The arrows indicate each of the solder joints Looking at it now, I am amazed it came out so well. If I did not know its history, from a normal viewing distance, I would never know it is a franken-hand.

My 1036gmt-powered '42 has a 1675 seconds hand (I think the other hands may be interchangable as well, but not 100% positive)

Looks outstanding, but the dial paint looks fine. Why in the world would you modify/relume a gen dial (which seriously mars its value & may cause viewers to question what should be unquestionable)? I hope the lume does not glow too much .

Some may consider the winding rotor to be a weight, but, otherwise, there are generally no weights added to movements. I would second Ubi's comments & add that, with very few exceptions, a thorough service is pretty universally required for any movement you purchase from an unknown (to you) source.

Also, commonly available on ebay.

They do that to keep the overall weight down. Especially, when playing golf, customers would complain that their watch was too heavy & it affected their swing (or flew off their wrist). I overheard a relative (who used to work for Rolex) explaining this to a customer many years ago.

I have no idea yet what I will put on when I get up in the morning, but it is just past midnight, so it is officially Friday & I am still wearing my beater (I took the pic Thursday afternoon, which is why the date still says 23)

Because their subdial arrangement differs from the Valjoux 72-based series, the 6 register is usually frozen. However, they sound, feel & operate (manual-wind) more like the 72 than the 7750.