freddy333

I think I would lower the height of the crystal a bit (so the bottom of the crystal bevel is closer to the top of the insert), but other than that

Can you trace the watches to a single seller, who may be getting his watches from the same factory? I think you have to assume that either someone got a defective run of jewels or someone is installing them incorrectly. Of course, with reps, either (or both) scenarios are likely.

The number of winds required depends on the type of movement & condition of its mainspring. Generally, you wind it, gently, until it stops (do not force it). In most cases, when the chrono hands do not reset at their correct null positions, it is because the joint that fixes the hand wand to its post is loose (a common problem with rep hands). You have 3 options - replace the hands (& keep your fingers crossed that the next set will be better - 50/50 chance), have a watchmaker tighten the joint or epoxy it (there are many threads detailing the process that you can search out) (Original pic courtesy of Avitt)

Nice, diversified collection. Something to wear with every occasion.

Beginning the work week with the old beater

Adding to Andy's comments, swap the dial for a gen & it would fool me. But even as it is

Datsun & Comex today

Obviously a rep (fonts are wrong), but a nice looking watch.

Same as Ubi

I would try to slightly soften (round) the sharp outer edges of the case, including the CGs.

Should be a nice timepiece once the crystal gets replaced & the case is polished (unlike ss, tt's appearance does not benefit from wear).

Alligoat - Have you considered filing/sanding the engravings off the bezel? Not perfect, but I think that would look passable.

The dial (with Roman markers, which rarely look right on a wrist watch) is a bit busy & the watch a few mms too large, but, otherwise, it is a very sophisticated-looking watch. A white gold, steel or platinum version would definitely work for me. Kudos to Rolex.

'nuff said.

Something tells me this is going to be good.

Most of the early (pre-release/testing) run of Comex Subs contained a very small number engraved at 6 o'clock, which, with wear & age, may be difficult to see without a loupe (unless you are very close). Most later versions had 2 different sized numbers engraved or stamped into the caseback There are also rumours that some of the 1st test watches lacked the valve, but I have never seen any (credible) proof of this assertion.

Ingod dial The 2 biggest flaws with his (& most other aftermarket) 62xx Daytona dials are the slightly too small subdials (which leaves a bit too much space between the outer rim of the subdial & the inside edge of the chapter ring area) & the crown (I replace them with a gen, as is the case in the pic above). That said, like most aftermarket parts, there is some variability with these dials. I have been trying to buy 1 of his black Newmans, but each 1 looks slightly different & the variations are not pretty. The printing quality varies, there are misaligned/loose/missing index markers, different colored index markers (on the same color dials), misaligned vertical lines in the subdials, etc. But, at its best, ingod's Newman dial comes pretty close & from my benchmark of being viewed from an arm's distance away, they can look quite convincing

That was my impression as well.

Well done, Zig.

Ditto Deeka. Pics like that nearly always indicate a scam.

Omega - I can understand your feelings, but I do not think By-Tor was thinking of you (or had you in mind) when he posted his general thoughts about members of some gen forums.

Modern Rolexes (those produced after about 2000) have the laser etched-crown @ 6 in their crystal. Vintage models do not (yes, that includes replacement crystals). Because Rolex maintains a tight grip on their parts supply, unless you find multiple sources (ebay, private seller, etc) of the same new gen part, you pretty much pay whatever the seller is asking since Rolex SA limits retail sales of parts (Rolex USA prohibits it).

I had not watched the video when I posted my original comment above. But now that I see how the bezel (& watch) works, I recind my previous bezel comment. The watch needs that bezel, as it is part of its function. So, in that case, to reduce its busy appearance, I would replace the Roman numbers with Arabic numbers or bars. But, even as it is, now that I see how it works (love the idea of not having to manually correct for differing days in months, but the jumping hour hand in the video seems to slightly miss each hour marker by a bit, which is unusual for a Rolex ), I like it. But in steel or white gold/platinum only.

There are a number of these guides around, but nice to have another. Thanks.