freddy333

It is essentially a Yacht-Master III (I am 1 of the few who loved the YMII) & it is interesting, but I definitely would have it with a plain bezel. Any decoration there makes the watch look too busy/finnicky. Red - With the Daytona, they just replicated the damage they did to the 116520. I am sure Steven Tyler already has 1 of these new 1s.

I cannot remember what the donor dial was, but 62xx Daytonas have a coronet that look like this In any case, just about any gen coronet will do since very few collectors will identify the wrong (gen) coronet on an otherwise gen-looking dial.

I have a similar two-tone, but I think mine came from Josh. Excepting the incorrectly ordered handstack (on the gen, the hour hand is at the bottom) & incorrectly style & typical mis-alignment of the ROLEXROLEXROLEX around the inner case flange below the crystal, I think the two-tone rep GMTII is a nice looking watch (if you are into two-tone) The problem with (flashed/plated/laser-deposited, whatever marketing hyperbole the seller wishes to use) gold on reps is its limited lifespan. With gold being so costly, there is not likely to be very much of it on a $200-$300 rep watch, so two-tone (or 'solid' gold) reps are best worn infrequently & in safe environments. Remember that gold on modern Rolex watches is solid & if your rep gets scratched, you will see the underlying steel, which turns a nice rep into an obvious fake. Unless you really have your heart set in two-tone (& are very careful), it is always best to stick with steel.

Not to spoil the party, but I think you need a better bracelet.

In terms of 7750-power, DW's claim to fame was that his cases were the 1st available (that I know of) with asymetrical pushers, which is 1 of the distinguishing features of gen 62xx Daytonas, which was lacking on all (known) previous 7750-powered 62xx Daytona cases. If you post a full frontal pic of yours, we can tell you if your case has this important feature.

ebay (yes, it is gen).

It is well past midnight, so it is officially Monday & just returned from a late movie (Project X - My review - OUT OF CONTROL) wearing my 'Graph

A jubilee might look nice, but I think you have a rep crown on there & the pearl & lume stick out in a less-than optimal way. But, otherwise, 1 of my favs & the only Tudor that is cooler than a Sub

Marty - I think you are being much too generous. This is an out-&-out new, aftermarket dial, nothing gen about it. Whenever a seller's description infers that he has more than 1 of a rare dial ('This is a beautiful dial but is my last one so I it must go for the right price'), you can pretty much click the next button & consider yourself lucky. Whoever bid over a grand (so far) is going to be very disappointed the 1st time they post it on a gen forum.

I thought I would revive this thread with an updated pic of (most of) my Rolex-only collection since there have been a number of changes since it 1st appeared at the beginning of the thread Anyone else have anything (significantly updated) to add?

If you can reduce the extent of the 'rust' around each pinion hole (both its width & darkness), it might look reasonable. But I would remove it from the crown (I have never seen a rusted crown (they are usually white gold) unless the entire dial is badly water damaged). After replacing the missing index markers, I would also dab a bit of black fingernail polish (or similar black paint) on them all (black Newman dials have black markers)

Yes, virtually everything.

Ending the work week the way it began

You may be right. Been awhile since I worked on an ETA.

If it helps, part number is 6932. Holding breathe...........................

Speaking of balances & hairsprings, anyone have or know of a source for a NOS balance/hairspring combo for a 1030?

Not sure about some of their facts, but a good read anyway.

There are numerous illustrated guides in the Watchmaking forum, but this is the basic procedure - Pull the stem out to the time-setting position Remove the caseback Remove the 2 bridles/tabs with screws along the perimeter that fix the movement in the case Press the stem release button near the stem (press only enough to release the stem - too hard & you may disengage the keyless works, so the stem will not lock back in) Place some lint-free paper in the palm of your hand (to keep from touching the movement with your skin), turn the case over & gently allow the movement to slide out Slide a small sheet of plastic or thin cardboard between the hour hand (or bottom hand on the stack) & the dial to protect the dial Assuming you do not have a hand-puller, take a pair of small flat-head jewelers screwdrivers (make sure the tips are both clean & in good shape) & insert them between the second hand & minute hand from opposite sides, 180 degrees apart from each other (east & west). Gently rotate each screwdrive in an opposite direction until the second hand slides off the stack & carefully remove it. Repeat for the minute & hour hands. Loosen the 2 screws on the side of the pillar (main) plate of the movement to release the dial feet & you can then either lift the dial off or gently slide a small, flat-head screwdriver between the bottom of the dial & top of pillar to lift the dial off. Good luck.

Looks like he did

Auto - Would you care to do a tutorial guide (with pics) on how to change that center sweep second pinion bushing?

Yes, I just heard the news. Very sad, indeed.

Works for me. Because most vintage watches get repeated polishings over the years, there is no real guide to how CGs are supposed to look. As long as they look worn, about the worst anyone can say is, 'Whoever polished this last did a poor job' (I mean that in a generic sense, not in this case).

Could be either keyless works or a duff crown.In the latter case, replace the crown & see if that helps. If not, you need to remove the hands/dial & check alignment of the keyless works.

Not sure which made my jaw drop 1st - the watch or the pic. Either way, it definitely got my attention. There is definitely some heavy metal in this thread gentlemen.