freddy333

Not sure about some of their facts, but a good read anyway.

There are numerous illustrated guides in the Watchmaking forum, but this is the basic procedure - Pull the stem out to the time-setting position Remove the caseback Remove the 2 bridles/tabs with screws along the perimeter that fix the movement in the case Press the stem release button near the stem (press only enough to release the stem - too hard & you may disengage the keyless works, so the stem will not lock back in) Place some lint-free paper in the palm of your hand (to keep from touching the movement with your skin), turn the case over & gently allow the movement to slide out Slide a small sheet of plastic or thin cardboard between the hour hand (or bottom hand on the stack) & the dial to protect the dial Assuming you do not have a hand-puller, take a pair of small flat-head jewelers screwdrivers (make sure the tips are both clean & in good shape) & insert them between the second hand & minute hand from opposite sides, 180 degrees apart from each other (east & west). Gently rotate each screwdrive in an opposite direction until the second hand slides off the stack & carefully remove it. Repeat for the minute & hour hands. Loosen the 2 screws on the side of the pillar (main) plate of the movement to release the dial feet & you can then either lift the dial off or gently slide a small, flat-head screwdriver between the bottom of the dial & top of pillar to lift the dial off. Good luck.

Looks like he did

Auto - Would you care to do a tutorial guide (with pics) on how to change that center sweep second pinion bushing?

Yes, I just heard the news. Very sad, indeed.

Works for me. Because most vintage watches get repeated polishings over the years, there is no real guide to how CGs are supposed to look. As long as they look worn, about the worst anyone can say is, 'Whoever polished this last did a poor job' (I mean that in a generic sense, not in this case).

Could be either keyless works or a duff crown.In the latter case, replace the crown & see if that helps. If not, you need to remove the hands/dial & check alignment of the keyless works.

Not sure which made my jaw drop 1st - the watch or the pic. Either way, it definitely got my attention. There is definitely some heavy metal in this thread gentlemen.

I would suggest that you take a trip to your local Authorized Rolex dealer (AD) & sample their wares until you have honed-in on a single model. Then, research the cost of pre-owned & compare that to your bank account. if you want & can afford the gen, get it. If not, get a rep of the same watch. The last thing you should do, when ambivalent, is to buy a gaggle of reps. Especially, when you are just starting out.

Big leap? Did I miss something?

Low compression generally means either worn valves/seats, head gasket or rings. Is he burning oil (bluish smoke coming out the tailpipe)?

Now, that is a beauty.

Welcome & keep us posted on the progress of your 3 projects.

Probably final gen version.

It would help alot to know which Sub you are building? The difference is in the details. Each sells good parts & not-so-good parts. But without knowing what you are building, that is all I can tell you. This would be best answered by Yuki (he is very helpful).

Try here.

My only criticism is the glossy/shiny dial. I think these all had matte dials. But otherwise, very nice work.

Once you remove the movement & can see all the pusher parts, it should be pretty obvious how it goes together. If not, post a good, clear pic of the parts & area inside the case where the tube fits.

I faced the same dilemma during Phase I construction. Ultimately, I opted to remove the quick-set date & hacking functions, so the 2846 functions just as my gen-powered '42 does. Of course, because it is such a pain-in-the-ass to set the date on a non-quick-set watch, I have to keep it on 1 of the winders. But a small price to pay for a watch that I can hand to someone (with a bit of Rolex knowledge) that wants to see how it works . On a similar note, for those who question the reasoning behind fitting gen movements into rep/aftermarket cases - I recently got my money's worth when the watchmaker in an AD, after questioning the authenticity of my beater, got that deer-in-the-headlights look after opening the case. All he could say was, 'Ugh......er.....ehhhhh.................this is an old 1, isn't it? I guess I've got alot to learn.' And my female friend nailed his guilty coffin closed with, 'Yes, he's got alot of 'old 1s''.

Case is from an old rep with a working he valve. Movement is a Rolex 1520 with gen handset, gen T19 crystal, gen 703 crown/tube & caseback from another old cheap rep that I hand-stamped for the Comex number.

Works for me. Nice job.

Still Saturday evening & wearing a Sub

If this fails to dissuade you from wasting your money on a Comex, I am sure Ubi can come up with something that will

Been some time since I worked on an ETA, but I think someone posted that that is a standard ETA part. So you might check some of the parts sellers like julesborel to see if they have it. Otherwise, unless someone has a spare, you may need to do what I did & purchase another rep GMT to get a GMT donor ETA.

Yes. If you want a gen hand, be prepared to pay dearly for it, especially if you find 1 in NOS or pristine condition. Beware of 'gens' coming from Asian countries - there are many reasonable aftermarket GMT hands being sold as gens, even by generally reliable sellers. If in doubt, get a good, clear macro & post it in the Rolex forum.