Rolex would never install a non-Oyster dial into an Oyster case. It is possible that the owner or some indy watchmaker/modder might, but noone within the Rolex service network would ever do that.
Valty - Good sighting on the dial/pusher mismatch. That dial did not come in an Oyster case (with screw pushers), so the watch is, at least, a franken. With such a crappy pic, I should have looked closer & assumed that someone was trying to hide something (like small printing & incorrect pusher style for that vintage).
But I think your late 50s date is off though. I believe the 1st 6240 appeared around 1965 & remained in production until1969.
In NOS condition, these will be very difficult to find. You will have better luck with good, used condition. Begin by searching here, here, here & ebay.
What I can see looks good. Values between $25k-$40k, depending on condition & provenance (original sales receipt, 25-year old family pics showing dad wearing the watch, etc), if any.
aogilvie2011 - I think the common consensus among those of us who responded to the original posting on VRF was that this was clearly a forged document. Your comments only reinforce that supposition. Thank you for your comments & we appreciate your input.
The only option I can think of is to replace the strap with a shorter 1. If you are located within the CONUS, check with any of the watch kiosks that dot most shopping malls or some online strap sellers.
With vintage models that have external lug holes, a paper clip works in a pinch. With modern models, you really need a springbar tool that is made for that type of case. All the watch supply shops sell them.
You lost me there, Zig?
The balance appears to be held in place by a metal component that is attached to the plate at 2 points; with 2 screws (as opposed to a cock's 1 connection point, 1 screw). So, unless there is a standard cock hidden below the bridge, how is that not a bridge?
Here is a Rolex bridge (fixed at 2 points, with 2 screws)
Versus a standard balance cock (affixed to the pillar at a single point, with a single screw
No idea of the tap dimensions, but I use these to tap tube & pusher holes (I cannot recall which of the 2 is for which hole)
I use GS. If you are absolutely certain you will never need to remove the tube, you can use epoxy. But GS does a good job & leaves the tube removable.
Depends on the existing hole. Test fit & chamfer if needed.
The cap comes off in a standard anti-clockwise direction. If it will not disassemble following the instructions in my tutorial, it may be internally rusted together. Try soaking the crown in penetrating oil, then try again.