freddy333

one80: If your heart is set on a particular model & it has to be all gen, I would follow Nanuq's experience & deviate where necessary to end up with all gen parts. In that case, you may or may not live long enough to complete the project. On the other hand, if your goal is to end up with a gen vintage Rolex model, set your sights on a more common vintage model like the 1680/5512/5513. There are many more gen parts for these later vintage models floating around at much more "reasonable" prices, which will make your search easier (i.e., less costly & time-consuming). All gen except for the self-patina'd caseback (from Phong) --

Generally speaking, there is nothing in a 1036 GMT that cannot be replicated with standard machining, let alone CNC equipment. In fact, a properly CNC'd 1036 GMT would likely & easily outperform the original! So there is no reason, mechanically- or materially-speaking, that no one has yet rep'd a proper 6542 movement. Although, today, I think it would be prohibitively expensive & time-consuming to locate all of the parts to assemble a gen 1036 GMT out of NOS gen components, it could be done. As others have correctly stated, gone are the days when mere mortals were able (or could afford) to purchase gen Rolex components for "reasonable" prices.

A minor detail, but I think the CCP run China more like authoritarian capitalists rather than communists.

Well done.

Yes & for a variety of reasons.

Sorry, I misunderstood. Unfortunately, I have never seen individual Rolex crown components for sale. I suspect this is because when the internals wear out, Rolex always replaces the entire crown/tube assembly.

Very interesting. I wonder how they are able to sell "Rolex" signed watches with Rolex movements & not get sued by Rolex? The Man Making New Rolexes Old Again

It has been several years since I was active in Daytona projects (& things may have changed since then), but many people modded movements from el primero-powered Zeniths they found on ebay. But with so many people building frankens & Daytona prices skyrocketing, I suspect it may be much easier just to get on a Daytona waiting list. If there is another option, another member with more recent experience may chime in.

Rick - You can buy Swiss-made crown tubes from most of the watch parts houses (Ofrei, etc.) & they are functionally, if not literally, the same as Rolex's. Same metal, same function, same lifespan & same feel. Many watchmakers with Rolex parts accounts use them.

A good, clear pic taken outside at dusk (not in the dark) or in shade would be better, but I do not see anything here that, assuming the watch appears otherwise legit (i.e., it is not a brand-new looking 40 year-old Sub, etc.), would cause me to question the watch from an arm's length away (my benchmark). I would stop worrying about it & just enjoy it.....until/unless you come across a gen dial/handset (& have the cash to purchase).

I have never seen a Rolex crown that was soldered or cemented together by the factory (the one in Switzerland). However, anything is possible in the hands of a (for profit) watchmaker.

Hard to tell without seeing the dial. Can you post a good, clear pic?

It's a actually franken-bracelet. I think I posted about this years ago, so apologies to those who already heard the story, but I was helping a friend replace a radiator and stupidly stuck my hand where it didn't belong while the engine was running. The fan caught & sheered one of the links right off my wrist. I caught the watch just before it got ground up in the blades or fanbelt/pulley. Fortunately, I was able to salvage the gen 580 end links and 93150 clasp & fit them to what you see in the pic. It is a miracle I did not lose the watch, not to mention my arm. Anyway, I wear this watch most of the time & the bracelet is so comfortable that I just sort of forgot about it over the years & never saw any reason to replace it. There is actually an addendum to the story that I forgot about: About 10 years ago, I did bid on a replacement 93150 on ebay & came close to winning it. But, honestly, because all the parts that I actually manipulate (clasp & end links) on this bracelet are gens, I just could not rationalize spending $2,000+ to replace a bracelet that looks and feels the same as the one that I already had on the watch. So I let it go & just forgot about it.

I would avoid modern lume on a vintage watch. It SHOUTS fake! While some vintage watches may have some glow left, none glow brightly 50+ years after they left the factory. When working on a vintage project, especially a Rolex sports watch, it is best to opt for no glow. It may not be as functional in the dark, but it will have more credibility in the light. Trust me on this. Oh & here is a tip I learned many years ago the hard way - ignore the urge to try to replicate the minty 'left in the sock drawer' or 'never worn' look. I spent many years trying, unsuccessfully, to pull this off & never came close. Any vintage piece that looks new/unworn (regardless of the excuse) will engender suspicion. On the other hand, any watch that generally looks old overall can cover a few minor sins. Since no franken or rep is perfect, anything that reduces the likelihood of suspicious glances is a good thing. I know how tough it is to take a file or nail to that brand new (very expensive) MQ dial or Phong case, but once what I am saying sinks in & you are able to change your mindset, it all clicks into place. Once I realized this truism, life became much, much simpler, & vintage Rolex project watches appeared much more plausible.

It has been awhile, so do not quote me, but if I remember correctly, I believe the '42 uses a 115 crystal & the '75 uses the 116. One of the differences between the 2 crystals is the location of the cyclops.

Not my experience at all. In fact, just the opposite. Wearing a bracelet tight or snug causes general stress in the links & acute stress when the wrist is flexed or the hand is in a position that puts added stress on the individual links. In contrast, when the bracelet is loose, the only wear occurs from the naturally mild friction of metal-to-metal contact, which is unavoidable regardless of how the watch is worn.

Re bleach: In my experience, the bleach will dissolve the lume (and dial paint). So, tread lightly. Re dark spots: Try a dirty pencil eraser (graphite) or small bits of iodine to darken & break up the consistency of lume color a bit. It is that tan consistency that is the give-away, not the color itself. Apply VERY sparingly. Consider it seasoning, not the main course. Too much & it will look fake. Bonus points: Rub a small amount of brown shoe polish onto the center of the dial around the hand-hole. Not so much that you SEE brown, but so that it looks like the original black dial paint is fading to "tropical". Done correctly, it can give the dial quite a nice patina.

Actually, the real dials DO "tan" that much, and more. But, were it mine, I would add a few tiny dark spots to two or three of the indices & then spray a light coating of matte varnish over the entire dial. Just enough to give the dial an ever-so slightly yellowed/aged appearance (call it patina). Then, find some matching hands. Done correctly, I doubt anyone but a hard-core collector would spot the deception from an arm's length away, which is my benchmark for success. Gen: Gen: You should also peruse this old thread.

Before doing anything, I would post good clear pics of said dials. You may be fretting over nothing, or the pics might inspire the right solution. In general, the idea is to research thoroughly (& ask questions) BEFORE hitting the buy button. As you have seen, it saves a bit of buyer's remorse later on.

You are very welcome. I am glad you found the info useful. Back in the day, RWG really was THE central repository of cutting-edge watchmaking creativity. Unfortunately, as is often the case, that creativity was eclipsed by its own success as many of the labor-intensive, community-aided technological breakthroughs eventually trickled down into many of the average reps you can buy today. There was alot of talent -- much of which was spurred on by the very competitive nature of the no-nonsense engineering wizards RWG attracted back then.

Excepting the repainted dial, all (mostly NOS as of the date of its assembly) gen (the black dial is my Phase 1 franken).

The crown cap actually unscrews from the piston. If you remove the winding stem & clamp the piston in a pin vice, you can unscrew the cap. This is generally done to replace a broken crown spring or piston clutch ring (if the crown spins free when winding, it may be due to the inner flats of the clutch ring being rounded). I posted an illustrated tutorial on the process many years ago that you may be able to search out. Found it! Click me

Like you, I have been out of the game for some time, so I cannot definitely answer your question. However, have you educated yourself as to what makes a gen 6542? Can you tell the difference between a gen & an average rep copy? Do you know what to look for? How much does cost affect your decision making (are you more budget-conscious or more of a well-heeled neurotic-perfectionist)? Have you perused RWG's Watches section to see if any of the recommended dealers offer a rep that does not offend your senses too much (no rep or franken is perfect)? Posting with an indication that you have done YOUR due diligence goes a long way to getting members to elicit useful replies.