freddy333

Simple, 1030-powered small crown 6536/1.

Bond Sub

As others have said, the cost to construct a watch as you describe would either cost several thousand dollars or a few thousand and several months (or years) of work searching for parts. I have not been following the market for the past several years, but I think your best option would be to purchase a good rep with properly-dimensioned (i.e., genuine dimensions) case. Then, replace the crystal, bracelet, crown/tube & dial coronet with gen parts. This will still cost a couple thousand, but you will end up with a very credible-looking/feeling vintage Daytona. If you want to ice the cake, remove the auto-wind module from the movement (assuming you purchase a rep with an auto-wind movement) and see about locating a flatter caseback, so the watch sits lower on your wrist (1 of the tells of rep 62xx Daytonas is that their casebacks are thicker/taller to accomodate an auto-wind components, which is incorrect for these watches). p.s. Don't ask me for sources, because I have been out of the hobby for too long and no longer know who is good or in business. It is best to post a request for assistance, so members who are actively buying/building watches can assist you.

I think if you could work out a way to add a wee bit of thickness (3d appearance) to the print, that would push the dials over the top. But nice work.

Yes and I would expect no less from one of the great masters of the art. Sole criticism is that I would put it on a proper bracelet. Do you still have that Double-Red and Black Lung (Doxa)?

First login in quite some time for me, too. To paraphrase J. Lennon, life's what happens to you when you're not watching time. Good to see some of the old gang still around.

I have not been able to check in for some time, but I am glad to see RWG and the wristies still here. Some really nice metal on display here. I am wearing the old Bond Sub today

In your mind it may still be a 'Rover, but in the mind of a buyer looking for a 'Rover, it's probably a 'Rover with a Ford motor. Did you know, too, that that Buick V8 was also offered to Triumph for use in their Stag, but Triumph chose, instead, to weld two of their crappy four-cylinder lumps together, which produced one of the most unreliable engines in British automotive history.

508 - ask your cardiologist if you can tolerate 4,000 IU/day of Vitamin D3. Vitamin D deficiency and risk of cardiovascular diseases

Beautiful watch and great story. My grandfather was a watchmaker when the Accutrons were originally released. I remember the week my grandfather had to spend in NY for Accutron training and how he returned with a new gold Spaceview. Although he sold many expensive watches, throughout my entire childhood, that Spaceview was the only watch I was never allowed to touch. In my case, when my father died, I received his Accutron, which he got from my grandfather. I long ago acquired a Spaceview conversion kit, but decided to keep the watch as-is.

Too big for my wrist, but it looks great.

I do not think either question can be answered objectively, since perspectives and priorities vary. So I will simply offer this anecdote - Two years ago, a friend and I were perusing a local jewelry store. Another customer glimpsed my DRSD franken and called me out on it. To make a long story short, the store's watchmaker "cracked" the watch open for us and, low & behold, there sat a nice, genuine Rolex 1575 beating away inside the case, right next to its HeV. In my case, since gen Rolex parts will always increase in value, why cash-out if you do not have to? Or, at least, that is my conclusion. Your mileage may vary.

Been awhile since I built anything new, but, historically, I think MQ has had the most accurate dials.

Looking forward to the finished project. Should be nice.

GMT today

Ditto.

This's pretty good...and pretty bad at the same time (start at 3.45")... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDyFyynEe4U

This's pretty good...and pretty bad at the same time (start at 3.45")... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDyFyynEe4U

This's pretty good...and pretty bad at the same time (start at 3.45")... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDyFyynEe4U Sorry about the triplicate posts. The posts did not appear on the index page, so I thought they did not go through. I appear to have lost admin functions, so I cannot remove the dupes.

There are a large number of lesser-known chronograph brands that are powered by the V72 & variants. Purchasing 1 of these V72-powered off-brand chronos is often less expensive than purchasing a V72 by itself. Unfortunately, I am not aware of a listing of all the watch brands & models that are V72-powered, but, because of the Valjoux's popularity, many sellers will indicate the movement in their description. Alternatively, if the seller posts good, clear macros of the balance wheel (most honest sellers will), you may be able to see the V72 stamping on the plate below the balance, identifying the movement as a Valjoux 72. Note that some V72s may lack the stamp. If you have not yet come across any of the many threads detailing the difficulties in assembling these vintage V72-powered Daytonas, I can tell you (from experience) that it sometimes takes alot of time & patience to track down a good V72 & even more time & patience to find 1 at a reasonable price.

Don't laugh. We had alot of good times together.

Based on the price you quoted, I would go with the patina dial & keep searching for gen hands (MQ's second had lacks the taper that IDs it as non-gen). For reference, here is my gen -

They got to be worth a few bob.............

I have not purchased any dials (Daytonas only) from MQ recently, but, unless he now has a budget line, most of his reasonably accurate dials started $1k. So I cannot offer much guidance there. Yuki stuff, again as I have not purchased anything from him in several years, is usually good quality. Hopefully, another member with more recent aftermarket parts purchase experience can offer more specific insights. Your gen pricing seems about right.

Ditto Ditto Ditto (search out 'Mr. Slimeball' for details). As for dials, hands and casebacks, unfortunately, after the movement, those are the most costly components. If you have the cash, only a gen dial would do. If you spend alot on an aftermarket dial, eventually, you will end up having wasted that money when you end up biting the bullet & replacing it with a gen (by which time will cost 200% more than it will cost today). Same with hands, which can often be found on ebay or the vintagerolexforum sales pages. For a caseback, due to the scarcity/cost of a gen, I think your best bet is simply to purchase a good rep with a caseback that is made to gen specs. Alternatively, you can try either Phong or Yuki, because they used to offer gen-sized backs. However, be prepared to pay handsomely for them. For that reason, especially since a Sub caseback is a plain-Jane affair that is very difficult to ID on an otherwise gen-looking watch, I think the rep caseback is the way to go.