freddy333

Ditto.

No, just takes time. Start by working your way around the bezel with a razor blade paint scraper. Once it fits in-between the bottom of the bezel & top of the case easily, switch over to a thin knife blade, repeating all around the bezel, lifting slightly as you go. If you are lucky, you might have the bezel off in a minute or 2. If not, I have spent upwards of 30 minutes slowly trying to loosen a stuck (or glued) bezel. You never know until you try. Just be careful not to chop off too many fingers.

Looks like she's ready for some serious crusin', Dave. But tomorrow, the Benz gets left behind I am tossing on some jeans & a t & heading off for some mountains of my own, because I feel another motorcycle adventure coming on

I think your fiance may have a point there. I used to sell the 808s, which are real nice, but, for my money, B&W's 801 series is about the closest I have ever come to hearing 'canned' music performed live.

If you can find an accurate black aftermarket bezel with the correct spacing of the 1-1-0, then it might be worth it. But, to date, I have only seen 1 & it had other problems (Spacing of lower bezel is correct, but printing is flat & it has other problems) On the other hand, there are some very accurate steel bezels around that get the spacing (& just about everything else) right. DW has some, but even he is hit-or-miss, depending on what he receives from the factory.

I have tried it, but a vintage Daytona is tough to pull off in most 'normal' situations. I tend to reserve mine for special occasions or when I am trying to impress a client at a lunch meeting. But to each his own.

Kick you should. An audiophile should never sell vinyl. The 1200 is a great workhorse. I still use 1 of their arms (EPA-100) on my TT Running directly off this Sounds good (I have had a couple MC275s over the years - nothing is built like a Mac), but a good vintage source through updated vintage electronics is even better

I forgot to include the x10s, which I demo'd (& liked) as well.

I will be ending the work week wearing my OPD

Like most companies that market successful high-end products, there is alot of profit (& I say that having worked in the high-end audio industry for several years during the 80s). Whether that is good or bad is a subject for another thread. All I know is that I spent a great deal of time auditioning a number of good headphones (any or all of which I would have been happy with) & settled on the pair that provided me with me with the best overall sound for my needs. I should also note that I use electrostats for home listening & play them at moderate levels. Out of the finalists I compared, the MDTs come closest to the sound I hear from my home system. If your reference is a booming car stereo, the MDTs are probably not going to be to your liking. But, like reps, there are no perfect sound transducers & we all have our individual preferences. So, you choose your poison & try not to let the hardware get in the way of the music.

1st, read the pinned articles here. These 'What is the best....?' types of questions should be avoided because there is no best for everyone. Every rep has a set of flaws (there is no such thing as a perfect or 1:1 rep of a gen watch) & you, the buyer, needs to make the call as to which inaccuracies bother you the least & which you are willing to pay more for to mitigate. It is always best to research the gen model you are interested before searching (or posting questions) for reps. Go to your local AD (authorized dealer) & try the gen watch you are interested in on to see how it looks. Operate its functions -- wind it, set the time, change the date, operate the chronograph, etc) -- to get a feel for how the watch works & how the controls feel. Take special care to see/feel how the watch is finished, how well it is put together. Then, check out lots of pics of the watch on google, TZ or other watch sites. Knowledge is your best ally.

They include a handful of tips, but only 1 set of Monster SuperTips & no foam tips. However, I ordered a sampler set of Monster's SuperTips, which includes both silicon (for best sound) & foam (for active use). I also have a set of these aftermarket (in this case, the term aftermarket is a superlative) silicon tips, which had a couple that fit nicely (Click the pic for the link) Unless I accidentally catch the cord on my clothes while driving, I have not had problems with my previous Skullcandy Titan buds & these aftermarket silicon tips fit my ears better than the Skullcandy tips do, so I doubt that will be a problem. All mp3s with most @ 320khz.

Just a quick update for anyone who may be interesting - I received the MDTs 2 days ago & have been spending as much time as I have available listening to them (& comparing them with my reference Koss's). I think I made the correct choice because they sound wonderful on just about every type of music & have that rare ability to induce vanishing little sound of their own into the mix. I say this because great recordings sound great, bad recordings sound bad, bass heavy recordings sound bass heavy, shallow recordings sound shallow.............. I think you get the idea. The point is that the MDTs allow whatever the mics picked up in the recording venue to be presented to you in its original form, which can be a blessing (in the case of good recordings) or a curse (in the case of bad). They reveal very low level details in recordings that you never heard before & this is not due to their having a tarted-up response pattern (although Monster does say their midrange is ever-so-slightly nudged upward to complement classic jazz recordings). But I listen to a wide range of music & the MDTs handle them all with equal aplomb. I hate to sound like any number of audio magazine reviewers, but, if you are looking for a premium set of in-ear headphones (I hate to call something this advanced/good 'earbuds') & can afford their pricetags, you should definitely include these in your short-list.

Subdials look a bit small on the Silix.

Throw on a gen crown/tube & rivet bracelet & you have a very credible watch. Few would question the authenticity of such a plain, old-fashioned Rolex. To ice the cake, replace the xtal & dial crown with gens & it would fool me.

Have you been to the AD to try them on? That usually simplifies the decision.

Those Yuki bracelets make these reps.

It sounds like the hour hand may be loose, but the only way to find out is to remove the movement from the case & check the hand. If you just received the watch (with the past week), I would start by contacting the seller & asking his advice.

Back to SS sanity today

The inner (vertical) flange on the case around the dial on most gen Rolexes is relatively shallow & this is an area that most reps get wrong (by being too tall/deep). If you have to err with a rep, I would always take the rep with the too shallow vertical flange over the too tall/deep flange.

Very interesting. Once you perfect the procedure (you can get dial blanks from Ofrei, etc), I imagine you will be kept very busy.

Just for grins, I am wearing the 1 on the right today

Exactly.