freddy333

It has been awhile, but I believe Frank is correct. Also, if you want to do it right, you will need to weld 2 permanent pins into the lug holes in place of the removable springbars

I am not into DLC'ing a classic, so I would go with the GMTIIC, which is 1 of the few watches in Rolex' current line-up that has benefited from modernization (the ceramic bezel looks great on the GMT) without looking too blinged-out.

Still wearing my beater on Saturday

If the problem part is the bezel as LHOOQ suspects, then that is normal when fitting a gen-sized crystal. Only option is to shave a small amount of metal from the inner circumference of the bezel, then test it. Shave a bit more & retest.

There have been lots of problems reported about DW's Daytona cases, but having a T21 not fit is a 1st in my book. How does it not fit? Too large? Too small? Can you post a good, clear pic the illustrates the problem?

Thank you. In the case of an SL55, I would never have seen the watch anyway. Well done.

Yes, that is exactly the point & why so many prefer vintage Rolex tool watches (mostly brushed finishes) over modern (with ever-increasing polished surface area).

I would try a new hand 1st.

If the watch had the A260 (which powers my 6202 Deluxe), it would have a 5.3mm crown If it had the later 1030, it would have a 6.0mm crown

Definitely nice, but the iconic Newman 6239 with white dial is my uber-favorite. The Movado-like Mystery-dialed Datejust is a close 2nd.

Thanks, I know these things are being repped & I saw this guy's video last week. Oddly, while he covered alot of info, he missed the single-most important indicator - if you remove the tip, the speaker is flush with the end on the gens & sits a mm or so back from the end (indented) on the fakes. So, for anyone interested in the MDTs, this is the thing to check for (with the exception of the bird (continually trying to get in on the action), you can pretty much ignore the rest of his video). Good tip. I will check those out for riding. Once I receive them, I will do a shoot-out against my reference 'phones, the Koss KSC35 (these things are amazing, despite their meager price) While I do not like that kind of business practice, most successful companies (Rolex) tend to be over-litigious when it comes to protecting their brand/trademarks, but I would never buy anything if I based my purchases on that.

Good luck.

Only when the dial is printed with this order - Rolex-Cosmograph-Oyster (most have Oyster before Cosmograph, known as ROC Newmans).

The V72 is a tri-compax movement, which has 3 working subdials. The V23 is a bi-compax, which has 2 working subdials. A frozen subdial indicates a bi-compax, regardless of the seller's description.

Ditto above. Polished steel watches alway gets scratched (assuming you wear them).

Me thinks you are too quick to throw in the towel. No pain, no gain. (1030-powered) Were it me & the case did not work out, instead of shelving the project, I would get another (proper) case & soldier on. I think the best buy in cases for you is Yuki (there are slightly more accurate cases at considerably more money). If you want a tough project, try a DW Daytona.

I was hoping to hear from some who have/had the Miles Davis Tributes (MDTs), but I appreciate your input anyway. After finding a couple of stores that allowed me to demo a number of high-end 'phones (I had to provide my own 'tips'), I was able to narrow the field down to 3 final contestants -- the MDTs, SE535s & Sennheiser IE 8s -- any of which I would be happy with as they all sound great. But, in the end, a Lifetime replacement warranty (which is important as I tend to keep 'phones for a long time -- I still have my Koss Pro 4AA 'vice grips' from the 1970s ) & slightly warmer/more transparent sound tipped the hat in favor of these, which I should have on Monday

Ending the work week wearing my beater

I want to upgrade earbuds (in-ear speakers/headphones/whatever) from my current $40 Skullcandy set for use while driving my motorcycle (that is, they have to fit under a helmet) & general iPod'ing. Unfortunately, you cannot demo (most mid- & lower-priced in-ear) headsets in stores, so I have been buying & returning set after set trying to find something that has good audiophile sound & sound-isolation. However, I found 1 store that allows customers to demo high-end 'buds, so I was able to hear the Miles Davis Tributes, which sounded good. Initially, I wanted to keep the cost to below $100, but the best I found in that range (Klipsch Image S4i's) are excellent in the sound isolation area, but noticeably lacking in the audiophile department (highs are limited, lows sound like salamis hitting sofas & the mids sound like there is a sheet of gauze over everything). Of course, I would prefer to spend as little as possible, but I am plagued with a fairly good ear (& good home system), so I am willing to spend upwards of $400, which is the average street price for the Miles Davis Tributes. I have also spent a bit of time reading previous RWG threads on this very subjective subject, so I am just wondering if anyone here has these & if they are still satisfied with them?

Any chance you are pressing the second hand down too hard/far onto the pinion? If the movement runs with tape on the pinion, but repeatedly stops (at the same point) when only the second hand is installed, I would check the second hand's tube to see if it is out-of-round or otherwise deformed. The tube may be oblong & coming into contact with the interior walls of the canon.

(Spacing between bottom of crown & dots differentiates vintage 702 & modern 703 -- 704 looks like 703 but lacks the steel 'wrapping' of the 703 when viewed from underside)

My 1st franken (ETA-powered & it accepted gen crown/tube, end links & clasp........maybe the 1st MBW???????) -- from the mid-80s & still going strong (there is another thread hanging around here where I posted the original sales brochure & price list)

Ditto.

Euno, my friend. Long time, no see.