freddy333

I always enjoy seeing white markers on these instead of those silly looking yellow (imitation patina) colors. I would have gone with a gen crown/tube instead of aftermarket, but I like what you have done.

Diz, did the seller describe the dial as repainted?

Correct.

Bill - The bottom line, in my personal opinion (this is not an official RWG pronouncement by any means) is that if you agreed to sell someone an item (or gave them a reason to think or expect that you would be selling them the item) that you later gave away (or sold) to someone else, then that is pretty cold. I would never do that. On the other hand, if there was NEVER any such agreement, then I am not sure why you even posted this thread? In that case, I would simply have addressed the complainer's accusations, briefly (limiting the response to 2-3 lines), directly (in his own thread) & left it at that. It seems to me this whole thing would best be carried out between the 2 concerned parties via PM.

That is the way I was reading it, too. Is that the (capsulized) gist of this?

Bill - Can you encapsulate the issue in a couple of lines? That is, what is Peter's complaint that you did or did not do?

Stunning work (as usual), Ubi. But I think it would look better on a nice (brown) strap.

Fairly accurate 5513s are available from a number of the sellers located on RWG (VIP membership is required for access to some sections of our site). Try Josh & Andrew for starters. While I would be the 1st to applaud a nice diy dial, I think trying to reinvent the wheel when a number already exist is not the best plan. If none of the sellers on RWG have what you are looking for in stock, they may be able to source it for you. If not & you have a specific 5513 model in mind, post a good, clear pic (max size 1024x768) & we may be able to better guide you from there.

To paraphrase the old saw, sometimes, YOU wear the watch &, sometimes, the watch WEARS you. Big watches (44mm+), like 20" subwoofers coupled to 2,000 watt amps in a car, are much too loud. And, while there is something to be said for knowing how/when to break (fashion) rules, most of the established purveyors of modern men's style declared the end of the big watch years ago. And for the same reason - big watches are too loud. In addition to my original post, I offer this & this. Of course, to each his own.

By the way, these are among the most comfortable bracelets ever made -- metal or hide.

Does it look like this (mine lacks the date) You need either 55s (which look nicer on non-sports models) or these, which are not signed In the meantime, there are a number of common rep end links that should fit. If you have any 20mm rep end links lying around in a parts box, give them a try as they are likely to fit (more or less).

Is the bracelet model 6251H or just stamped 'U.S.A.'? If the former, I think you need 55s. No idea if or who might sell aftermarkets, but you can occasionally find loose gens on TZ, VRF & ebay.

I agree. The ST19 is not only beautiful, but, more importantly, it is manual-wind & feels/sounds like a V72. I have never tried, but I suspect you might be able to fit a V72 dial onto an ST19, which might then be made to fit into 1 of DW's asymmetrical pusher 62xx cases. Of course, you would need to freeze the lower subdial, but imagine a cheap, reliable manual-wind movement that feels & sounds like a new V72 & is relatively ubiquitous. To date, every ST19-powered 62xx Daytona I have seen had weirdly sized or shaped subdials, often bleeding into the minute track, as in this 1 This may be due to the use of poor quality dials, the usual lack of attention to detail by the factories that make them or it may be due to incorrect spacing of the ST19's subdial pinions. Food for thought.

I believe only the 1520 & 1530 calibers were used in the 5513. The (chronometer rated) 1570 was used in the 5512 & 1680 (1575, which includes a date complication), both of which, unlike the 5513, were chronometer rated watches.

Wore my Bond Sub today

Is the handstack correct? Congratulations, CS. Quite an achievement.

Ending Wednesday wearing my 5+ year-old 'time bomb' (still going strong)

Those have been around for years. They differ from the beveled gens in that the gens have a clarity & sparkle that gives your watch a distinctive jewel-like quality, which the aftermarket part lacks.

I could be wrong, but the info I posted came from a friend in law enforcement (who routinely uses this info in court). Also, the ECU (computer) in modern cars records a number of parameters about your driving style that could be used against you. In our modern world, Big Brother is definitely right around the corner (& already watching).

If you have the owner's manual for your camera, read the section on Macro. This will allow you to take clear/sharp close-ups of the crown, especially the bottom side.

There is likely a problem with the hour totalizer (subdial @ 6) brake (either misaligned or defective) that any watchmaker who works on chronographs can easily fix (try our Ziggy). Otherwise, it is a beautiful watch. Were it mine, I would replace the crown/tube with gen parts, but leave the crystal alone. Yes, a modern T21, with its glistening beveled top edge, will add a bit of glamor to the watch, but it will also cost you about $200. DW's aftermarket crystal is pretty close to the shape of the original T21 (rounded edge dome), which is why I selected to leave it on my 6263

I believe that is a balance cock. Bridges must have at least 2 screw/fixment locations, as on this Rolex

Thank you, but please do not repost an entire set of pics just to add a few words (or lines) at the end.

For the record, most cell phones contain a similar feature. There are 2 ways to disable it - locate the chip containing the programming code & hack it (out) or turn the phone off (the tracking system can only work when the phone is powered on). In a similar vein, did you also know that all printers encode a hidden signature/timestamp on every page you print? So the next time you want to print out that ransom or hold-up note, consider using a pencil (& 25+ year old paper - most paper these days is invisibly water marked for identification).