freddy333

This now But switching to this later for another motorcycle adventure on the open road

Raymond - I think you need to contact the member who placed the order & have them check the order status at Amazon. It looks to me like the order was either lost (within Amazon) or cancelled for some reason. No reason for the usps tracking system to show 'The U.S. Postal Service was electronically notified by the shipper on April 03, 2011 to expect your package for mailing' for more than a few days (a week at most).

If you do not have access to a Rolex AD, I would recommend searching google images, TZ or VRF, where a search for Rolex cyclops would return a deluge of gen images. I have a gen xtal on my CHS, but due to the variability of rep watches, there is no guarantee that what fit my case would fit yours or anyone else's.

This is why I always bake the hands (after the iodine has dried). The heat both darkens the color & greatly weakens the glow. The resulting lume is dark & grainy with a vague, barely perceptible glow (which you can see in a dark room after your eyes have acclimated to the ambient darkness) that lasts for about 30 seconds before fading to total darkness (very much like 50+ year-old tritium). By the way, I mix my own lume (Bergeon 5680 Luminous paste mixed (with water) to a very weak solution).

Congratulations.

You definitely need a better pic to properly show off that pair.

Yes &, being newly manufactured, it has the benefit of offering much greater protection than a brittle (& possibly oxidized), 25+ year-old gen T39

How to get there? Read this.

Well done on the small GMT hand. I did something similar for my Phase 1 '42.

The dial has no relation (other than possibly color matching) to hands. Gen hands will fit a gen 1575 movement. If you have that, then you ought to use gen hands. If you have an ETA movement, then gen hands will not (easily) fit (without resizing). For ETAs, try Clarks.

Of course, with vintage Rolex, anything is possible & this combination of dial/case has been rumored to exist, but I have never seen a gen with credible documentation

Never had a problem with it (no broken bits or damaged holes). Just follow the setup instructions & keep the drill bit exposure to a minimum (long enough to drill through the material & no more).

The most reliable movement is the 1 that is properly serviced/maintained by a good watchmaker.

(Click the pic for details)

No argument there. Theirs Mine

Sorry to hear about the loss, but I would always contact the seller & give them a few days (at least) to handle it before doing anything else (including posting here). In most cases, the seller will reship the item. Between this & the currently insecure nature of International Registered Mail, it looks like we are entering a new dark age as far as reliable shipping goes.

Why not? I did

I see the fly in the ointment in all of these Venus-powered Daytonas (note the way the hour totalizer bleeds into the minute track) I think that answers the question about the subdial placement.

Ditto. Could be quite a find. But, in order to estimate a value, you would need to post good, clear macros (1024x768-ish) of both the inside caseback & movement.

Ditto. If you are going to keep that bracelet on the watch, I would brush finish the edges of the links to remove the shine. That looks wrong. Or, if you can deal with the springbar issue (search for Yuki bracelet & springbars), replace it with Yuki's 7206 or 7836, either of which will greatly improve the authenticity of an already nice watch.

It gives those who do not qualify for the MVA a place to work...........& I am only half joking.