freddy333

The thing about a watch like the DRSD is that only serious collectors will know (or appreciate it for) what it is. The vast majority of people you will come across do not know the difference between a Rolex Sub & a Seadweller, let alone a DRSD. On the other hand, if you expect to be wearing a rep DRSD among watch enthusiasts (& I am not referring here to the average Rolex owner - who knows NOTHING about the vagaries of vintage Rolexes), I would either choose something else or be prepared to spend a bit of time/money to construct a believable franken (mixture of gen & accurate aftermarket parts). Most fake DRSDs look that way. Research gens here & then compare to reps before hitting the Buy button.

I would want to know which jewels? In any case, jewels do not normally just fall out...........unless the watch had been serviced poorly & the jewels were not installed/set correctly.

Welcome aboard. I kind of like the new Daytona (it would look nice in my Daytona case), but probably not a watch that I would ever wear out in public (a bit too blingy).

Gloves? What happened to your usual go-at-em-blind-with-a-sledge-hammer approach?

Actually, it is 666. Does the hand stop at 6 with the movement out of the case?

As a neophyte, I would recommend that, before you even begin planning your dream rep, you need to research the real thing & select the version you are interested in. Start here.

Yes (in an early, midi-style form of melodic beeps) & it was quite a conversation piece back in the '70s when getting sound out of a watch (or any other electronic, hand-held consumer gadget) was cutting-edge technology.

Began the work week digitally

I hate to sound like a broken record about this, but, as has been said many many times, the movements in rep watches are either used, unserviced or both. If you plan to mod or keep a rep, its movement should be professionally serviced upon receipt. And, just to cover all the bases, (nearly) all mechanical movements should be serviced (disassembled, oiled & adjusted) every 5-7 years. Failure to do so is akin to running your car without having its oil changed. Having a rep that ran for a year without problems, you should consider yourself lucky. But, now it is time to pay the piper.

Still lugging this around

Does it wind normally & can you set the time without any problem? If the answer to both is yes, then the movement is likely due for an overhaul.

Peter O'Toole was once asked why he wore 2 watches & I thought his response was rather clever - 'Life is too short to risk wasting precious seconds glancing at the wrong wrist.'

Does 'no joy' mean the movement did not run out of the case?

Sometimes, you have to use a glass scraper (razor blade in a safety handle) to break the bead of crud or glue that may be keeping the knife blade from wedging between the bezel & case. In some instances, it can take 15-20 minutes of wedging the razor blade around the perimeter before you can get a thin knife blade in.

Take the movement out of the case & see if it runs. If not, check to see if the hands are contacting each other. If it runs, check to see if the hands are coming into contact with the crystal. If neither of the above, r&r the stem to be sure it is seated properly. Sometimes, a simple r&r is all it takes.

This now But switching to this later for another motorcycle adventure on the open road

Raymond - I think you need to contact the member who placed the order & have them check the order status at Amazon. It looks to me like the order was either lost (within Amazon) or cancelled for some reason. No reason for the usps tracking system to show 'The U.S. Postal Service was electronically notified by the shipper on April 03, 2011 to expect your package for mailing' for more than a few days (a week at most).

If you do not have access to a Rolex AD, I would recommend searching google images, TZ or VRF, where a search for Rolex cyclops would return a deluge of gen images. I have a gen xtal on my CHS, but due to the variability of rep watches, there is no guarantee that what fit my case would fit yours or anyone else's.

This is why I always bake the hands (after the iodine has dried). The heat both darkens the color & greatly weakens the glow. The resulting lume is dark & grainy with a vague, barely perceptible glow (which you can see in a dark room after your eyes have acclimated to the ambient darkness) that lasts for about 30 seconds before fading to total darkness (very much like 50+ year-old tritium). By the way, I mix my own lume (Bergeon 5680 Luminous paste mixed (with water) to a very weak solution).

Congratulations.

You definitely need a better pic to properly show off that pair.

Yes &, being newly manufactured, it has the benefit of offering much greater protection than a brittle (& possibly oxidized), 25+ year-old gen T39

How to get there? Read this.