freddy333

Ending the work week wearing the bottom 1 (but with a nicer bezel)

Yes, my 1st working Hev came from a cheap rep. Read this. Pricing/details in the link I provided above (click it). No (reps in years & I do not think I am married to your wife's friend), just spending all my effort on gens & gen-powered frankens.

Sounds like you got lucky with a watchmaker who has the proper rivets. If you can, please see if the watchmaker can provide a source & part number for the rivets he uses. Oh & do not forget to post pics of the finished bracelet.

Looks great, but I think you need to flatten the upper curves of the lugs (the area above the springbar holes) to match the curvature of a Sub case. Although you have done a great job reducing the height of the case, the shape of the top of the lugs (when viewed from the side) still looks more like a Seadweller than a Sub Compare to your case Also, you may want to replace your bezel, which also looks more like a (thicker) Seadweller bezel.

Josh & Andrew are 2 (of many) sellers who have their own subforums in RWG's sellers' subforums (some sections of RWG require at least VIP member status to access - click the Upgrade your membership link atop every page for options).

Ideally, you grind off the rivets, add/remove the required links to make the bracelet fit & install new rivets (I have no idea who, if anyone, sells the correct rivets these days). The alternative is to use a flat screwdriver/blade to unfold 2 links, add/remove the required links to make the bracelet fit & refold the original links. The problem with the alternative option is that it is very difficult to unfold/fold steel links without leaving the face of the links deformed. Fortunately, the clasp has sufficient adjustment available to fit my 7" wrist.

Ditto. This began the same way (only the mid case is original MBW now)

Bill - Eurotimez was selling MBW cases before he went belly-up (or whatever it was that happened). I got a 5513 MBW from him for a friend a couple of years ago, which I believe cost around $200. No idea who, if anyone, may still be selling MBW cases? But I would be surprised if no one is. Read this. Although it will not (easily) accept the correct 2mm dia springbars), this rep rivet is nearly an exact copy of my gens & light years beyond those MBW bracelets (Click the pic for the link) I have 1 of these on my 6536/1 Sub Yes, but I have not purchased any reps in a couple of years, so it is not likely I will be getting any more. You might post a request in the Rolex or for sale forums as some of the more senior members may have 1 lying around.

Wearing 1 of my Newmans today

Wearing my 'Graph again today

The diameters are the same, but the heights of the 2 movements are different - 1570 - 5.75mm 3035 - 6.35mm You might be able to do it, but I doubt it would be a simple swap (you may need to mod the case a bit). Actually, it just occurred to me that your 1601 has a 1575 (not a 1570), which has a height of 6.30mm, so it may be an even swap. I have never done this, so I cannot guarantee you will not run into stem alignment issues or problems fitting the movement into the case.

I cannot answer your questions, but I bet a good travel agent can (or can put you in touch with someone who can). And congratulations.

A macro of the stamping would be helpful, but yours looks aftermarket. I have more experience with 7835s, so take this with a grain of salt, but I have only ever seen 78350s with flat-top 3s.

For a current model, I would head to your local Rolex dealer. That way, you can try the watch on & will not have to question your watch's authenticity. Later, if there is a problem, you have a real person in a real place to go back to. For a used/vintage model, since you do not have a good deal of knowledge/experience, I would stick to VRF or TZ (but check the buyer's references on VRF before you buy). You can always post some good, clear pics of a watch you are interested in either here or there to get input from more knowledgeable members.

Ditto.

The 1st thing you should do is head to your local Rolex dealer & try on some watches. Decide which model, style or type of watch you like & go from there. No one here can tell you what you will like.

I have been using the same file for years (without any problems), but, just to be safe, a screw extractor is probably a good investment.

Simple, but you will need a small round or triangular hobby file Insert & wedge the file inside the tube & unscrew. I would replace with a new Swiss-made aftermarket or gen tube (you can buy gens on ebay or tz, or Swiss-made aftermarkets from Ofrei, Cousinsuk & most watch parts houses).

Hard to assign a worth to these things since their value is whatever the buyer is willing to pay. I recall that (all but the very earliest) MBW cases have an etched (as opposed to a working) Hev & their main claim to fame is the ability to accept gen crystals, crowns/tubes & movements (with some modding). I can tell you that I have given away (free) or thrown out those bracelets by the handful (they are rubbish - inaccurate & poorly made).

(1 59)

Ziggy was unable to get mine (from jewelryandwatch) to fit on my V72. I suspect the bridge will need to be modded a bit to make it fit correctly & at some point, I will try again myself. Except for the finish (which is not bad, just not perfect), Phong's bridge looks like the real thing. If only it fit. As much as I hate to say it since I assisted DW in designing his, Phong's chrono bridges are probably the best (looking) I have seen (but his pricing is ridiculous ).

You should always watermark your pics (placing the watermark over the main object also makes it difficult to remove). That will not stop their unauthorized use, but at least it makes it more difficult.

Try ebay, here or here. You might also contact some of the sellers listed on RWG to see if they can source specific parts for you (most will not, but some may).

34mm

Keep in mind that, over time, CGs get polished (&, thus, changed in shape & reduced in size). Therefore, the way they look in any given picture is greatly dependent on how many times the watch case was polished, what it was polished with & the ability/intent on the watchmaker/owner doing the polishing. So there is really no way to provide a guide or directive on how to shape CGs. You choose your model & do your best to copy it. This is why I always tell people, who are looking to modify their rep/franken, that before you put file to metal, research the specific gen or gen models you are interested in so you know what they look like, how they operate & how they should appear in pictures. Then, once you are familiar with the real thing, you are better able to move ahead (in the right direction).