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Everything posted by freddy333
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Which watches in your collection are true 'keepers'?
freddy333 replied to ubiquitous's topic in General Discussion
Ubi - What would be the impetus to liquidate? Do you need the money or are you thinking of buying a car or want to put money away for the kids' education, etc? Sounds pretty extreme to even consider liquidating. What gives? -
Bah........ The only thing standing between you & a properly adjusted stem is a 5-pound sledge hammer.
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Send it to Ziggy & have him do his thing (overhaul & mods).
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Women & SATC are like old Rolex customers & new Rolex watches - they both proclaim they will boycott because they do not like the change. But, in the end, once the hype & marketing machines kick into gear, they always change their minds. Trust me, every SATC fan will end up going to see 2. The only question is when?
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Sorry to hear the bad news, Nanuq. But you had a good run. If I remember correctly, with an MBW 1665 I think you need to go gen. Insert a small, triangular hobby file into the tube until it grabs the tube's inside walls, then unscrew. In some cases, the tube may have been cemented into the case. If you heat the case with a hair dryer (Ms. Nanuq can probably help you with that), the tube should then unscrew fairly easily. Depending on the condition of the threads in the case, you can either just blow out the debris & screw in the new tube, or you may need to use a tap to redefine the threads. Most of the watch supply houses sell the Rolex taps (you need the larger of the pair for a Triplock tube). Everyone has their own preference, but I always apply a small amount of GC crystal cement to the tube's outer threads just to help with sealing (Rolex specifies no cement or sealant in their service manuals, so this is definitely optional when fitting a gen tube) & then screw it in until snug (not too tight). The process is actually easier to do than to describe.
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From A Day at the Races
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Great find (& thanks to Yuki).
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From the upcoming (opens May 27) Carrie gives Big a steel DJ (yes, it is gen) And he & Carrie drive it around in a Merc convertible Who can argue with that Guys, if you want to make points with your woman, pre-order tickets for the opening.
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I believe the top set were taken by a TZ member, who is a professional phototog in NYC (I cannot remember his name). They have been posted on TZ numerous times over the past few years.
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AR makes a Rolex look great, but it also makes it look fake (with the exception of the underside below the cyclops on a couple of new models, Rolex does not AR their crystals).
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Buried up to my lower lip in work, I decided to go deep today
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I have had 2 (rosewood) Acetimers (2 & 4-watch models) for about 2 years & love them. Here is 1 of them
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Fortunately, you wear shame well.
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something completely different.... at least for me
freddy333 replied to stilty's topic in The Rolex Area
Ditto what Ubi said. MODS - The system has slowed to a crawl again. Page loads at 5+ minutes. -
I think that would just give them another reason to pop their gords. My problem with these gen forums is not so much their ignorance (there is plenty of that to go around) or dislike of.........let's face it............forums celebrating illegal contraband, but the number of members in the gen forums who hold dual-citizenship with many of the same rep forums they so arrogantly complain about. And the loudest among them are often the last people who should be throwing stones in glass houses, if you know what I mean.
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Still wearing my Bond Sub today
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Nice find, Nanuq. For anyone in the business of repairing/restoring vintage Rolexes.............
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Pull the crown out to the 1st stop (winding position) & wind it, slowly/gently, 40 times. Set the watch on a table, dial up, & let it sit for about 36 hours. If it continues to run, then it is working. If not, it requires service. I would recommend that you read some of the noob guides that are pinned atop the Technical section. Mods - I think these should be pinned atop every forum.
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Glad to hear you were able to work things out. Generally, dial feet that are too thick or too long can easily be dealt with with a bit of sanding/filing. In the couple of cases where I have had this problem, I doubt I spent more than a few extra minutes trimming feet for a perfect fit. The more common problem I find with many aftermarket dials is that of having feet that are too short. In these cases, there is nothing (or very little) for the dial screws to lock onto, which leaves you with no other option than to rely on dial dots or some other type of (semi-permanent) adhesive material. Locating dial dots can sometimes require quite a bit of trial-&-error positioning to be sure the dial fits the pillar without causing any collateral issues. In addition, dial dots & similar adhesives are not designed to be permanent fixes. At some point, you will need to clean & reapply the adhesives or source a better dial. To make matters worse, dial feet length tends to vary among aftermarket dials, even those of the same type & from the same seller & I have yet to receive a useful answer from a seller when I inquire.
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Any of the above. Each has offerings with pluses & minuses. You have to decide which has the least objectionable sins for you.
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And a great shot by the way.
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Certainly interesting, but the raison d'etre of this project is to end up with an oem 6542 (with the possible exception of a gen jubilee bracelet instead of the more typical Oyster). I have never liked the cyclops on Subs (which is why I have never owned a 1680 or later dated Sub variants), but I think other models (including GMTs) look funny without it.
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Thanks for the link, but I am not sure I follow the reasoning behind this? The only crystal spec'ed for the 6542 was the T115, which is what I am using. Also, the watch pictured in the seller's auction is a franken (using some of the parts I ultimately replaced (with more accurate parts) on my Phase 1 watch). The 3-line spacing on the 6542 was different than the 1675 (wider on the 6542). I spoke with a tech at Rich & will be shipping the MY dial off to them tomorrow (should be about a 3-week turn-around). I detailed the specifics of my request & sent them good, clear macros of the details I need them to get right. The understanding is that if they do not feel they can refinish the dial to my specs, they will return it to me untouched, which is the same agreement we had in previous cases (&, so far, they have always done a splendid job). But the proof is always in the pudding, so we shall have to wait & see.